Projects FED with killer Flathead

wow if you are gonna spin her that fast I sure would use them over belts.........

 

Use them! You won't know unless you try!

If you use them, they won't slip like the V-belts. You do have a PSI relief or burst panel, right? You'll need one or the other.

 

We'll start making adapters next month, as soon as Roger has finished the Brough
Oh! 44 and 70 should make more power.

K

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Taildragger&fenderless

 

Kjell 44 top and 70 bottom in 8MM is 59.1% over driven if I'm not mistaken,, Tim Jones

 

That's about right Tim And that would give me approx. 22 psi of boost?

K

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Taildragger&fenderless

 

Just found a #67 magnesium pulley in a box! I think we're gone start with that one.
Hauled the dragster to the last Kala race for this year, last weekend.
Lots of nice people to talk to


K

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Taildragger&fenderless

 

How did you do last weekend?

 

No racing this time Buddy Just took the "winder" down there to show-off My only sponsor was there, so we could support The race is a cool dirt-track race. Used to bring my Modell A, maybe next time

K

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Taildragger&fenderless

 

Car looks really Good Kjell, Looks like a fun Race, Thanks for the Video,, Tim Jones

 

Finally got the dragster back home in my garage, inn fact it's the first time I will have it at home all winter. I also think the Modell A will like having a friend.

Next up is to take the pan down for some inspection.....

K

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Taildragger&fenderless

 

Ok Kjell...... more info on the "A" is required!!!!

 

I'll see if I got some older pictures of the "A", and might post a new thread. But for now I have tore down the pan, and took down the center main cap and one rod cap to see if there have been any damage. But noo everything looks very good Have been a bit concerned because there are some "grey" stuff I the pan after draining it, but not eny larger particles. I thought this was something we would see just the first season.

K


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Taildragger&fenderless

 

Bearing looks really good - always brings one comfort!

 

So far so good Roger has gotten a big box with "to do stuff"
He's going to make new hubs and mod. the pulleys. We are also planning to make a crank-support. Bought a box with some blower parts.
one magnesium pulley and two idler pulleys one one on a bracket.
the idler pulleys are marked with a number, 5001. Does anybody know the brand and what the bracket fits?

K

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Taildragger&fenderless

 

Hi Kjell The bracket looks like it fit a 426 hemi or a KB , Tim Jones

 

Hey Kjiel: If you need any design help with the crank support, no problem. The thing you'll need to do is make a steel crank hub (like an RCD) - that has a nice bearing surface on the front to index the roller bearing support on. If you want me to take some pictures of what I'm talking about - no problem. We took a BBC setup and adapted it to our FlatCad - which is why I had a BBC snout designed into the crankshaft.

I'm willing to design one in CAD - with the provision to take the RCD style timing plate. This would be a cool setup - the blower pulley would bolt right onto the crank hub, and the snout/crank support would slip over the end. Hell - now that I'm talking about it - I need one myself . . . shit!

B&S

 

Thanks a lot D. I had a look on the RCD drawing that you attached, and if I remember from Roger's drawing, I think we are doing something similar
I will try to scan Roger's drawing and post it so you could see it
We have the original flathead dimensions on the crank, so nothing could be bought! But it would be nice to make it A 3D could really help, and would be more accurate to get everything lined up. Our pulleys will be inside out as we like to minimize the crank load.

K

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Taildragger&fenderless

 

Hey Kjell: I also have a flathead crank hub that I believe came from H&H. Tell you what, I'll take a look at it - and make a 3D CAD model of it. Then I'll throw together a 3D prototype for what I believe you'll need for a system that includes a snout support (it will be close, but not perfect). Are you running 2" or 3" belts?

You can then take a look at it and we can tweak the dimensions any way that works. I'll also design it so we can use the RCD degree wheel (which would be good - pain to make). That way we can swap degree wheels if for some reason we want to run a crank trigger some day. Let me know if that works for you.

I have some FlatCad and work stuff to do this weekend, but may be able to get to it next week some time.

 

Great D! I'll run down to Roger this weekend to scan off his drawing.
I think we will go for a 3" belt.
What location on the Bolts/studs will you recommend? There is two 1/2" holes between the water pump's and timing cover, and provisions for two on the "lip" down towards the oil pan.

Oh, no hurry D. We have all the winter!

K

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Taildragger&fenderless

 

Here is what I had in mind

K

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Taildragger&fenderless

 

Hey D Here is the sketch for the new crank hub. All measurements are in mm. The idea is to make the crank support "slip" inside the hub for correct alignment. Where gone use the sprocket inside out.
Does this make any sense?

K

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Taildragger&fenderless

 

Marry Christmas and a happy new year to all HAMB'rs and Flatheads and Friends out there in the Hot Rod world

K

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Taildragger&fenderless

 

Please help The Flatcad crew!!
They really show what HAMB is all about, helping out and shearing their knowledge.

The Sidewinder

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The FlatCad crew is looking for some good ole' fashioned HAMB support!



We'd sure like you to register and vote for the FlatCad coupe in the Champion Spark Plugs 'Search for a Champion' contest that starts tomorrow. Lets be honest, we could use the money to help us be the first flathead powered competition coupe to go over 200 at Bonneville. The world needs more things 'flat' that breathe fire, make noise, haul ass and excite the masses - and we plan on delivering just that!

Our Entry: - you can vote once a day, so do

Dates: January 6th - February 2 . . . if we make it to a Top 15 finalist, we'll be begging for more support.

http://alwaysachampion.com/search-fo...4#.Usltv_RDtuJ

Voting Registration: - Yes, you have to register, not a big deal . . . its the 'rules'

https://alwaysachampion.com/search-f...register/voter

Purpose: We'd like to show Champion and the entire racing community that a traditional, totally bad-ass engine stuffed in what once was Dad's old 'grocery getter' coupe, built buy a talented team of average guys . . . who all came together on the HAMB - is exactly what they should care about and WANT to sponsor. Why the hell not?

So hey gang, check it out . . . we appreciate all the support you've given us over the years!

Thank You!
<!-- / message --><!-- sig --> __________________
http://www.flatcadracing.org/
The FlatCad on the dyno
<!-- / sig -->

 

Back on track again, I hope
Roger has made new hubs both for the blower and crank
The plan was to use a 44 tooth on top and 67 or 70 on the crank.
But this does not come easy. I really want to be able to run with a fairly common belt size. 1440 is one, but will not with with my gear-set. Soo new pulleys need to be ordered. 41-42 on top and 65 on the bottom. I think I'm gone order a 1520 belt as well, just to be able to run the
60% over gear-set!

The block has been filled with epoxy just an inch left to the exhaust passage. The level of the filler is just over the crank web, covering the lower part of each cylinder tube. I hope tis will help stabilizing the lower end

As B&S told me, I have finally measured the head clearance, on each side valve to head and piston to head. I have made a casting of the piston domes at TDC, so the heads can be milled to match. But first the heads are gone be milled down 1.4mm (0.055 inch).

We hope to fire it up again around Easter!??


K

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Taildragger&fenderless

 

Hey Kjiel:

Looks like you're making some great progress! Have you CCd the total combustion chamber to see what your final CR is? I'm glad you reduced the quench area - what is the final piston to head clearance you now have? Also, what are your valve to head clearances?

I'm going to bet that you notice an improvement in the engine - potentially in a big way! Keep me posted on the progress - am really curious if the tight clearances help you with blown alcohol (I believe they will).

Take care my friend!

B&S

 

The heads are not machined yet, so can not measure yet I'm aiming on a final .040" clearance with the gaskets. According to known sources, a tight squeeze is really gone make a big difference in the alky Flathead
Still trying to figure out the pulley/belt combo. With a 55% OD it's not recommended to use rubber belts. But with my current pulleys, I think a 1512 belt will fit. Have somebody bought stuff from rbssuperchargers.com?

K

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Taildragger&fenderless

 

The guys at RBS seem to have been around awhile . . . have not heard anything bad about them.

If you tell me your pulley combination, I'll talk to Fowler and see what he thinks about belts. You running 8mm stuff?

B&S

 

Is this a dry sump engine?

 

Some uppdates The heads have been milled down(surface), then milled new domes (matching the domes on the pistons. The valve clearence is too tight by 0.010". We will soon fix this. I cc'd the heads prior to milling and now after, prior was 82 or 84cc, now they are 62cc. Big improvment with the CR. I think it will be alot easyer to tune her now.
The blower issue looks to be solved for now, going to use the 1512 belt, but Roger need to make a spacer. Have tested it and looks like we can tighten the belt both ways. I really like the idea to back bend the belt for more grip around the pulleys. Then it won't need so much tention, and save the crank
Small stuff are also looked at and modified, for easyer service. The guys must have time for more than one beer. According to the charts, the new pulley combo, will give us around 19psi of boost!?

/K

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Taildragger&fenderless and still looking for a job..............

 

Hello Pete

Sorry for the late replay.
No we don't use dry sump, good ol wet sump

/K

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Taildragger&fenderless