I think I need more fire protection, is a 20 lb ABC extinguisher enough? Maybe two of them? Anyone know how long one of those will continuously spray? Suggestions please, I don't want to lose a garage and the attatched house.
for my 1600 sq ft shop the fire code requires one 5 lb abc extinguisher. that's all I know about it. I have it hung on the bracket it came with by the door. you don't want to run around searching for it in an emergency. I also have on in my office.
I put as many as I can in the shop one by every door .And one by all my pieces equipment.Cost me money but helps me sleep better
Ditto... I keep 2 at every corner of the shop and the doors and in all cars. Better safe than sorry applies with fire. People always ask me am I expecting a fire. No ,but I can sure put one out !
Think of how many you would need in an emergency and triple it. The government regulations are based on someone using an extinguisher who knows what they are doing. Unless you are a fire fighter you will be less effective with the equipment. Find out the regs, and, as I said triple it. Doc.
A 20 lb can will put out a hell of a fire, if you know what your doing. That said, getting to know what your doing is not very hard. Remember to aim at the BASE of the flames. That is what is on fire. Untrained, excited people tend to aim at the flames themselves and all that does is use up your can. Most fire departments, including mine periodically offer fire extinguisher training to the public, or to business's that request it. Mount the can on the wall, near an exit so it is always in the same spot and you are near an exit in case you need to abandon your attack.
I own a all wood home and horse barn and I have two 2.5 gallon compressed water fire extinguiser's.The best thing about them is thay don't spray that awful yellow crap that ruins everything.I also have them in my shop[which is all metal]if you have a fire in a car the water is alot easier to clean up than a reguler fire extinguiser,good luck dave
I'm lacking in my fire equipment. I've got two 5-pounders in the shop, but they aren't hung on the walls yet because, and two in the garage on the house, next to the house entry door. My shop, at this point, is still just really glorified storage, until I get it a little farther along. The three cars in it don't have engines, and I don't do any grinding or welding in it. If my drill press starts throwing off sparks, someone needs to take away my power tools. But when I get the last wall wired and sheeted, I will be generous with the extinguishers: One by each bay door (two), one by the work area, one by the exit door at the back of the shop, and one on the side wall (32x40 shop, 1820 square feet). I will also have one affixed to my welding cart, since that's a pretty common cause of fires in a shop. I didn't think about a compressed water extinguisher, but that seems like it'd be the best for anything related to welding fires... undercoating, carpet, etc. The ABC extinguishers will put out electrical, flammable liquid and other fires. Can't say that about CO2 or water extinguishers. I'll probably have them all, since I've got an old CO2 extinguisher (after I get it tested and recertified). More importantly, I've got some of those little metal signs that say FIRE EXTINGUISHER that you hang up on the wall above the extinguisher. Just because YOU know where they are in your shop doesn't mean your buddies know where they are when the shit hits the fan. My friend went a step further in his shop and painted a big red square on his wall and hung the extinguisher there. -Brad
FYI, When you're looking at fire extinguishers. A = General Combustibles (paper, wood, etc.) B = Liquid Fuels (gas, etc.) C = Electrical D = Metals (Magnesium) So, with that said, a water extinguisher which is for "A" fires will not have much effect on a fire inside a garage. If you're concerned with the dust on an ABC extinguisher, you can purchase a CO2 extinguisher. These usually have a bell (diffuser) on the end of the hose. And remember to check and service your extinguishers, they don't do any good if they don't work P-Pull (the pin) A-Aim S-Squeeze S-Sweep I'll get off of my soap box now. Thanks, El Mitcheristo
Something else, plan on putting a extingusher in every position to work your way out of the building. Never be trapped by fire plan a escape route. Call for help if your first can does not put out the fire. As a retired Vol. I was never pissed cause we got there and the homeowner already put it out. Have a plan at all times. Depending on where u live city or rural, just remember how long it takes a F.D. takes to respond. I know its your cars, goodies, or treasure, but its your life. My 2 cents worth, sorry if I rant too much.
Be a retired Fire Fighter/Fire Inspector and a State Fire instuctor I will put in my 2 cents Not all fire extinguishers are the same. Somewhere on the Fire extinguisher you will find a rating. It is usually somewhere near the UL lable. It is something like- 4A 10 B,C. The A rating means that it will put out that many subic feet of fire. (4A would but out 4 cubic feet of class A fire) B,C rating will put out that many square feet of fire. ( 10 B,C will put out 10 Square feet of fire) Now the rating only works if you know how to use a fire extinguisher. A- ordinary combustables, Wood, Paper, clothing, Etc. B- flammable Liquids and gases C- Energize electrical D- Combustible Metals Rule of thumb A- Ash, B- Boils, C- Conducts ABC- are a good all around fire extinguisher. A lot of cleanup and is corrosive PW or Pressureized Water- can not be used on liquids or electricial CO2- Good all around Fire extinguisher, Be careful around electricial, Will freeze your hand if you hold the cone and not the handle Pull the pin first, stand a safe distance from the fire When using a fire extinguisher you must aim at the base of the fire and sweep back and forth ( Not up and down) make sure you have an escape route, keep yourself between the fire and the escape route. Do not forget to call or have someone call 911 If the fire is too big get out and stay out. Locate the fire extinguisher at each exit and near your work bench and welder. The extinguisher should be mounted between 4 feet and 8 inches from the floor. (* Never use the fire extinguisher as a coat rack) make sure it is in plain sight. I have 8- 10lbs ABC in my garage. One at the exit door, both overhead doors, mounted on the welding cart, at the work bench and one in the center of both side walls and outside between the overhead doors ABC Fire extinguisher check the gauge often. If the gauge is not in the green or its been used take it out of service. Every year turn the fire extinguisher upside down and hint it a couple time with a rubber mallet and shake it to make sure the powder is loose.
Thanks HOT40ROD! I'm also a retired FF. I was writing this as you posted.... For the shop I'd keep the garden hose ready too. The dry powder extinguishers will make a mess, but they are very effective on gasoline. Co2 is also very effective on gasoline. The garden hose is effective on a small gasoline fire. The extinguishers will run out of agent. The garden hose will keep on working. #1 First,..If you have a fire, get someone to call the FD. THEN attempt to put out the fire. Firemen don't mind checking on an fire you've extinguished. It is better to have them "on the way" in case the fire gets away from you. #2 Check the pressure guage regularly on the CO2. If you ever use a little of the CO2, the internal seal will be broken and it will be completely empty in a few days. #3 Dry powder, check the pressure AND turn them upside down & shake them monthly, otherwise the powder will cake up in the bottom of the extinguisher and it will not work! Lucky667
Yes, on the dry powder ones. When the powder is loose you will feel it move when you turn it over. Lucky667
A couple of boxes of baking soda sitting on the shelf are a good idea for carburetor fire. leave the motor running if it is; sprinkle lightly until the fire is out
Dang my 30 x 40 shop is only 1200 square feet, wish I had added the extra 2 feet in depth to get another 620 square feet. Just messing around a little, I know you meant 1280
Fluffing an extingusher is no where in the nfpa 10 code book. However we have tested it. Fluffing and not fluffing. Not fluffing you only get about 80-85% where a fluffed you get about 90%. I reccomend fluffing. Right now I probley have 30 or 40 abc/co2/halon that are "out of compliance" brought home from work. Do your selfs a favor and buy a real ext. No crappy walmart hardware store ones. If its a dry chemical and dosent have a guage I'd recomend pulling out you dingie and pissing on the fire. I've had more of those not work then work. I've been a fire ext. Tech for 5 years or so. The best on the market are amerex and ansul. Nfpa code reads you can't be anywhere in a building further then 75 feet away from a extinguisher. But in a shop/garage I'm a big fan of overkill. I'm also a vol. and just got home from a better safe then sorry call. Water pipe leaking into electrical panel.
Thanks for all the good info here I had never heard of tapping the base before.I have my shop set up pretty good with fire ext. I also have some simple things I do to keep from using them . Anytime I weld, cut, grind on a car that has undercoat or interior I have a 5 gallon bucket full of water with two wet towels (big ones stolen from good motels) and also a windex spray bottle full of water. Under coating can get cooking real quick wet towel and you are working again in two minuts no real mess.I have put out the burning ragged edge of my jeans with the spray bottle many times.
I have a variety scattered around the shop, with a 20 pound hung dry chemical on the wall and a big CO2 within reach. Its important to know which one to grab and when, I prefer the CO2 first because it makes no mess. That 20 pounder inspires confidence... Preventative factors and environmental control is just as important. I'm guilty, as most are, of storing gas, oil and various flammable chemicals like paint in the shop. I really need to get one of those yellow fire cabinets for the flammable stuff in the shop. Also, don't do work in non-drywalled area. Drywall will provide an hour of fire protection, when properly installed and taped (a damn good excuse to finish your garage). Same thing with shitting wiring, everything in your shop should be on GFI protection with wiring built to code. Good housekeeping can also make the difference between a minor fire and your shop getting leveled. 3,500 people dead and $15 billion in damages last year. Its a threat more real than terrorism, or even taco and seafood related injuries. I don't think the anti-taco lobby will wise up the real threat. Amazing what the american people will tolerate, and what they get outraged at... Anyway, my next shop will have sprinklers.
i am a firm believer in fire extinguishers..get at least 2 large ones..ABC type..always have one near the back of your shop and one just inside the entry door...2 at a minimum. and keep them up-dated each year have them checked..or at least every other year...Ive got 2 ansul 30 pounders in my small 960 S.F. shop..i also have 2 of the older type of water cannons..(pressureised..15 pounders..I can fill and pressurise my self..good for cutting torch fires..and like that) all of my flamables, drain oil, gasoline, solvents and bottle gas is stored in a non attached wood shed , behind my shop.
I have a 32x32 heated shop with several fire extinguishers scattered around in plain sight.A fire blanket can be helpful to smother a small fire with out extinguisher mess.A large pail of water is betting than nothing. Prevention always is best,all building wiring and heaters in good shape and up to code,fire resistant materials on wall and ceilings,aka Sheetrock.And after torch work or welding to check around after a time for any smoldering shit.Some guys like to disconnect the battery of a vehicle being stored to limit a unfused short circuit from starting a fire.Gas and other flammables stored in sealed containers outside.
of course if the fire is small and you have a good chance of puting it out, put it out but in the trades the primary duty of the fire extinguisher is to provide an exit. in other words if the building is on fire, get the hell out
I look at fire like someone needing CPR. Call for help first....then start your attempt to save your building are car. The guys from the FD will be happy if you have the fire out and they don't have to pull a bunch of hose.
Most people walk up to a wall and put the fire extinguisher bracket at eye level. Thats WRONG and illegal and against all common sense. You dont want to have to lift a heavy extinguisher over your head just to get it off the bracket. Mount it at a USABLE, easy-to-lift-off-the-bracket height That is 3.5 to 5 feet off the floor http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/evacuation/portable_placement.html
Thank you to everyone. Great responses guys! It was a simple question but it has inspired many to chime in, along with some professional insight as well. I think I'll get a 20 lb ABC and a CO2...liking the water bucket nearby as well (too cold here for hose). Just a proposal to the moderators, we have Tech Week here which is so helpful, how about a Safety Week once or twice a year?
I have a bottle at every door. Also, a little common sense about things . . .no gas near the waterheater/boiler kind of things. Thanks for bringing this up, you may have saved somebody's bacon! PS: I put out a whole room on fire in 2 seconds with a 2lb bottle - but you will never have too much.
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