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exhaust question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by crackernutz, Mar 19, 2009.

  1. crackernutz
    Joined: Mar 21, 2007
    Posts: 407

    crackernutz
    Member
    from tx

    So I recently got my car out of the shop and I need the exhaust repaired as it has some 'heavy' leaks in it. The automotive shop told me the "heat riser" is cracked. My question is can you run the exhaust straight back from the manifold not using the heat riser. 55 cadillac with a 331. thanks.
     
  2. coopdevill65
    Joined: Aug 5, 2007
    Posts: 292

    coopdevill65
    Member
    from tac ,wa

    yes. you might have to use a flat gasket and change the studs to shorter ones.
     
  3. without a heat riser the motor will just warm up slower....that may not be a issue down there in Texas. i don't even use one up here in Minnesota
     
  4. crackernutz
    Joined: Mar 21, 2007
    Posts: 407

    crackernutz
    Member
    from tx

    excuse my ignorance,but what exactly does a heat riser do?
     

  5. 302GMC
    Joined: Dec 15, 2005
    Posts: 7,877

    302GMC
    Member
    from Idaho

    Forces exhaust thru the base of the intake to heat fuel mixture during warmup ...
     
  6. crackernutz
    Joined: Mar 21, 2007
    Posts: 407

    crackernutz
    Member
    from tx

    awesome. thanks bud.
     
  7. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,757

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    You might have to modify the Y pipe if you take it out. You didn't say it had duals. Sometimes they crack and can be welded and sometimes the butterfly breaks and the leak is through the holes for the butterfly shaft. If it's still in one piece and leaking out the holes in the side, just melt out the butterfly if it's still in there and weld the holes up. If it's cracked it can usually be welded with a MIG. I've done it lots of times.
     
  8. Shifty Shifterton
    Joined: Oct 1, 2006
    Posts: 4,964

    Shifty Shifterton
    Member

    Not sure about that one, but GM loves to use a donut on one side and ungasketed machined surfaces on the other. I prefer to cut/grind out the flapper, mig the pivot shut, then mig the flapper body to the manifold, eliminating the gasket-less joint. If you wanna get tricky you can often port another 1/4" of diameter into the flapper body

    Like Tommy says, you're not supposed to be able to do that kind of welding with a mig. But many of us have successfully. The secret is the weld doesn't hold much. The studs put it all in compression and the weld is functionally a metal gasket.

    good luck
     

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