I have used the Satin Finish Top Coat paint product from Squeeg Customs and found it very tough and satisfactory. http://squeegskustoms.com/index/products.html The work has begun on my '40 Ford Tudor, and we're considering the same product. Squeeg has a light baby blue that is very close to the color that will work. But another product has come to my attention. Anybody familiar with this company and their products? http://www.supermarinepaint.com/topside-epoxy-sm-6000.asp More colors, and marine-use approved and formulated. Available in matte or gloss. Would this alternative be a better choice? As background, the car will need to sit outside under a plastic tarp and car cover. Here in the East our weather is all over the board, and winters can be wet. Acid rain is also a problem. And my cars get driven, not babied or pampered in any way. Any guidance you might give is much appreciated.
epoxy such as ppg's line of dp doesnt have UV protectant therefore it will fade/ turn chalky over time. the products you listed above I have no experience with, but have seen some done in hot rod flatz brand and they look pretty good
Putting anything under a tarp, car cover or not is asking for trapped moisture, rust, rot, mildew etc., regardless of finish.
What is the look that you're after? Given the choice between an epoxy or a boat paint, I'm not sure that I'd even paint the car. For automotive topcoats, those are both bad choices in my opinion. What look are you trying to get?
a quality urethane paint is dollar for dollar the best choice for, durability, shine holdout, protection from the elements, color choices, sprayability, availability, repairability, should i go on?
Way back when, my '69 Porsche had a rear window leak, and if I didn't use a tarp under the car cover, the rear floorpans would fill with water after a rainstorm. Would have fixed the window, but nobody at the time was making either the rubber seal or the new glass. My '61 currently has an intermitent leak in the windshield. If I don't use a plastic tarp under the car cover, the front floorboard fills with water. My '34 roof seam leaks like a sieve. But there is no way I'm pulling the '34 apart to fix a leak. The aged paint and overall look of the original paint is too valuable. Oh, the doors and windows leak too. Just the way it is. Yes, I have to be diligent about airing the tarp out. But after three years of using a tarp, it is far preferable than having to dry out the car every time it rains. Moisture inside the car is far worse than using the tarp, it seemed to me. Wish I had a garage for everything, but that just isn't in the cards either. Ideal? Nope. But just the way it is. Consequently, the paint has to be able to stand up to this kind of abuse. None of the cars have show-quality paint jobs, and after going through that process and expense, no way I ever want another show-quality job. I don't want to fret about paint jobs, rock chips, scratches, any of that again. Put the money in mechanicals and not the paint.
Yes, yes, yes. Absolutely please go on. I do have a friend or two who take the same position. Simple, single stage urethane. You're done. Forget the epoxy stuff. Correct route? These cars are drivers and workhorses. They won't get washed or waxed very ofter, then aren't getting much attention to paint and body. I've been down the concours path, and I want nothing to do with that anymore. I'm not putting $20,000 in a paint job then worry about every chip, dent and scratch going down the highway. So just shoot it in urethane single stage and be done with it?
Hey, I too, would suggest you go with a urethane over an epoxy given there's not much price spred, and urethane is a little better resin technology! There ain't no such thing as ''cheap paint"- use the cheaper priced "bargin brand'' and repaint in one to two years or use the better urethane and repaint in 7-10 years with little maintenance Is there any way you can cover the vehicle with a tarp without the tarp touching the painted surface, maybe an "EZ-UP'' or tent like cover. I've never seen a paint job that wasn't damaged from exposure when covered with a tarp (plastic or cloth) and rained on then left in the sun/heat Check out Southernpolyurethanes on the net for sales of paint " Humpty Dumpty was pushed "
+2 on the paint and tarp. A tarp can accelerate moisture and rust damage . If the outside of the sheetmetal is wet , you can be assured the inside is also wet . Tarps also trap the water evaporating from the soil .
Larry I never ever cover the car if it is wet, only if the sheet metal is dry. and always leave an airspace under so the moisture is not trapped by the tarp. I, too, heard all the horror stories, and I live in maybe one of the most humid cities in the South. After several years of the tarp over the greenhouse of the car method, I am not experiencing the problems I was told I would have. On the advice of my car detailer, I stopped using the car covers on my wife's BMW and Landcruiser. They look much the worse for wear. Why? Sunlight damage and acid rain damage. But this thread's not about "How to Store My Heaps Outside 'Cause I Don't Own a Garage." Marine epoxy paints, fellas. Anybody ever try them on a car?
Well for three years now I've kept the Avanti in my name in a cover then a plastic then another cover then a couple more tarps all tied up inside a large tarp it sits on... But then I just want to keep it dry, the paint was trashed long ago and then someone (not me) left just a tarp over it one winter... Bad juju. Now it stays dry through an oregon coast winter but it's a PIA to get in!
Marine epoxies, fellas. Anybody ever try them on a car? http://www.supermarinepaint.com/tops...xy-sm-6000.asp
There are two main concerns I would have with epoxy. They are VERY susceptible to fisheye problems during application. It can be due to insufficient/incorrect mixing, insufficient sweat-in time prior to spraying. It can also be due to minor surface contaminants or even a little breeze in the spray area. They are touchy finishes to spray nicely. Also, long term gloss is an issue. It really doesn't have anything to do with uv inhibitors. It is a problem inherent in epoxy resins. They are incredibly rugged, especially for chemical resistance, but they are much better suited as primer ground coats or under body/frame finishes. I agree with the other opinions above, just use 2k urethane. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
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