Spent a good part of the weekend on scaffolding installing snow guards on the metal roofing for her garage (Part of the honey do list). And fixing the rain gutter from the damage from last year's lack of snow guards. As a handy tip, I set up scaffolding on a flatbed trailer, strap it down, then move the trailer when the scaffolding needs to move. Works well. My latest on the english wheel... The lower anvil quick release has been cut from the adjuster so that the lower adjuster may become an upper adjuster. Not having a lathe, I paid a visit to one of my buddies last night to turn about 6" of threads off the drive screw to accomodate the shorter length of the adjuster, and to allow more room on the outside of the housing for a compression spring for preloading. Hope to eliminate the backlash this way. Still need to shorten the outer housing.
Today was a rather productive day, I finished up installing the snow guards on her garage roof, so we're one step closer to ready for s**w. This afternoon/evening/night I worked about straight through on the E-wheel, trying to get it more functional and less a pile of scrap metal. Some of the folks over on the metal shaping site have suggested I use a bolt on arm for the lower anvil (just in case) to offer more flexibility in the event a tightly radiused panel hit the arm, another could be built to provide necessary clearance. So here is Revision A, using 1/2" thick steel, and 7" x 10" pieces. Seems a shame to cut this back apart..... That should hold.. Finishing up the adjuster, wheel, and anvil modifications...... Tacked together............ The final verdict on size... The proposed "preloading" device for eliminating backlash in the drive screw. We'll see how well it works... .......and that should be enough for today. We'll see how much welding we can finish this weekend..
Thanks for the comments guys. Finished up the welding on the frame, now to get the legs cut and installed this week coming.....
Looks nice! The bolted flange is for different arms. The idea is to just change out the arm to clear different shapes.
thats a great idea so what do you think the max throat a guy should build???? we were talking around 36'' - 40''
Harry, being new to wheeling, I am going off what I have been told, that being some instances may occur where a tightly radiused panel may come down enough to where the lower arm interferes. With a fixed arm, you're making the panel in more pieces and welding. With a removeable arm, you have the option of building a new lower arm to fit the needs of that panel. Basically, no one machine will fit all circumstances, this will leave options available on the same machine. edit...guess I type too slow. For size, that would depend on what you plan to wheel. Roof panels etc, I guess you would need a good half of the distance. The majority of what I do is repair panels, so the 28+ should hold me for a good while.
this wheel is koool http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=926744&d=1268676038
Well the welding got finished up tonight (12:30 am.....that should be this morning!)....... With the use of some CAD (concrete aided design) and laser guided Sharpies, the cut off wheel did a nice job on the 20 degree cuts for the back legs.... The leftover pipe from the rotisserie build came in handy.... Back on its feet: The height was set up at 51", based on my height... And a few quick passes on a piece of scrap metal It needs all the fine adjusting now, but glad all the welding is done and it's standing on its own.
Just took delivery of the go kart parts this week. The Toro replacement part 68-8970 (of Chinese decent) fits real nice, almost like it's supposed to be there. The turf tire that came with the wheel and hub assy was swapped for a slick. The hub is a 3-1/4 wide with 3/4 shaft dia, roller bearings. This was after about 2 minutes. I can see where this will come in real handy. Partially inflated (deflated?), it kept the panel nice and flat.
I've been dragging my feet on painting my wheeling machine, but truth be told, I'm still not satisfied with the upper adjuster. I guess after being welded onto two machines now, the outer tube of the adjuster had just enough shrink to cause a couple of tight spots. I think the backlash compensating spring may even have worked had it not been for this issue...... ......so I decided to bite the bullet and fix this once and for all. The care package from Joe Andrews at Hoosier Profiles showed up yesterday, so I think my weekend is already planned. Once this is complete, hopefully I can find soome nice bright paint in the flammable locker that just screams at you...
Great looking machine Robert, you didn't make two of them by chance did you? The Hoosier adjuster, is that a square shaft? And those set screws are for alignment? And it is like acme threaded internal or something for the wheel? You going up to Dutchs'?
Hey OJ, no, just the one but I think I'll start collecting material for another frame....just in case. The parts breakdown can be seen here: The set screws are for adjusting out any side to side play. They are brass tipped dog points from the looks of it... The long screw is a UNF and the adjuster uses thrust washers for virtually no backlash. Joe builds probably the best components out there today. Won't make Dutch's. Got something already filled up that week. Need to though...
Time for the Hoosier Profiles upgrade kit..... The old adjuster is cut off and the end of the tubing gets trimmed and squared up to match the lower anvil.... Test fit and welding of the bolting plate.... Re-assembled. Boy this thing is really the cats meow. Night and day difference over the other adjuster. So now we can raid the flam locker to see what I have in LOUD. The neons typically don't like UV and are quick to fade, so I think it's between the Chrome Yellow and the Scarlet Red. I'd use the school bus yellow, but I don't want to run out of that stuff. I'm leaning toward the red...
The Jalopy Journal
