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Engine rebuild problems

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by pottsie454, Jan 22, 2012.

  1. afaulk
    Joined: Jul 20, 2011
    Posts: 1,194

    afaulk
    Member

    Like Traditions Racing said, checking the oil filter is a good idea. Don't be surprised if you find quite a bit of metallic particles in there the first time. After that it should diminish rapidly. Learning how a power valve operates will really help you to understand your wide open throttle-WOT- tune up also.
     
  2. If your going to run it in the shop, watch the temperature, you want it at least 180, but keep if from overheating with a big standing fan if need be. Keep in mind starting and running on a new engine and not really going anywhere is or can be rough on spark plugs. You might want to keep another set handy and put them in when you are ready for a real true shake down run, TR

    Yes, don't freak if you find some particles at first cut open. First thing to do if you find some, run a magnet thru the particles and report back. P/V are the simpliest aspect of tuning a Holley type carb. As long as you know the idle vacuum, you can fiqure out the P/V needed. As long as you can divide by 2, your half way there. Just follow the direction on the Holley web site, regarding if you have a stick shift or auto trans when checking your vacuum gauge, TR
     
  3. A pet peave of mine and a suggestion on running your new engine. Set up the idle and let it run long enough to get to full temperature. Please dont start it up and shut it down before at least reaching temp and it stabilizes.

    Nothing, but nothing chaps my butt more than people sitting and racing a engine broom-broom-broom, leave it alone. :mad:. Valves open and close 60 times in a second at 5000 RPM's, not minute- second, so why in heck does someone want to keep reving a engine just sitting there is beyond me. Leave that dumb childish stuff for the tuner guys and the Hondas with fart mufflers, O.K., now I feel better :rolleyes::cool: TR
     

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