Not trying to "stick the knife in and twist" but this is why I built a run stand for my engines. I ran into trouble with a SBC build and was so happy I was able to determine the issues before installation (in my case the block was junk). As for the possibility of intake gasket issues ... I use Gasgacinch around the ports and silicone around the water passages ... might not really be needed but I personally like the "extra insurance".
did u ever backfire through the carb,when first trying to start it? if so sometimes it can blow your power valve,this causing it to run extremely rich,also the power valve that is in it, may not be the same your motor at idle needs, causing it to be open at idle,again running rich. also if you have "flooded"it quite a bit i would smell the oil,if it smells of gas i would change it before running it to much more.
How long has truck been sitting? I had a simular problem after my truck sat for a year. Ran terrible with new motor. Everything was new. Execpt the gas that was in the tank. Found it was water in the gas causing the problem Cleaned out tank and carb put in 2 inline clear filters till i was sure all the gas was clear. Hope its an easy fix for you what ever it is.
Iam thinking the carburator is to big for the motor ... If it was summer time that big old carb would probably work fine if you got the right power valve but in the winter big carburators dump to much gas in there and flood it out ...
Running way too much fuel through it for sure. Are your eyes still red? Nose running? As far as the header temps go, 1 and 2 are close to the fan, so get more cooling air then the rest. 3 & 5, 4 & 6 cylinder pipes are nearly siamesed on an SBC, so they tend to be a little warmer, kinda like kittens snuggled up together to stay warm. 7 & 8 make sense since they're out there in the back all by themselves.
There is most definitely some thing wrong in the fuel delivery department. As others have said put another carb on and see what that does. You are wayyyy to rich in the air fuel . Thats why it ran good for 2 min then started to miss because it took that long to foul the plugs!!
Like someone else said your Power valve may not be right for the low vacuum you have at idle with the lumpy cam. Holley Power valves open when vacuum drops if I remember correctly.
Figured it out guys.. It was the danm choke the whole time! It was stuck close causing the rich condition and causing all the other issues... I will post a video in a second. Still needs to be tuned, timing, and jets... but it runs solid now.
Man...what a deal...what a video...listening to the cam...makes my dick harder than Japanese arithmetic. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I'm in love with a bitch a can't stand
Thanks guys! Its been a long, expensive road. But today has made it worth it. Now its time to start tuning and saving up for the TKO600 because that little Camaro T5 thats behind it wont last long at best.
Awesome ! The engine sound like a lot of fun ! You probably gonna need to save money for tires in the future !
I use a large paperclip as a tool, open it up and use it as a gauge to measure the lifter as soon as the plunger moves where the paperclip fits between the plunger and the snap ring. Works for me.
I knew it was something insidious and simple... just part of the "fire up a new engine" blues. At least you learned something from the experience. Bob
Thanks for all the comments. I reaaaally appreciate everyones help. I am not really in the loop of friends around here to help me figure problems out. I love hotrods, never owned one until this year. My dad has been into it since I was born but its to weird to ask his friends for help. I really rely on the HAMB to brainstorm my problems. It sucks to get bashed by the traditional police from time to time but this forum is the only one I have found that has enough helpful people to make it worth posting. Ill defiantly be at beatersville.. I still have a lot to do, figure out why my manual brakes wont bleed down, get the hydraulic clutch working, and rewire the whole truck. Plus fix the next 20 problems I run into. Thats hotrodding my friend. It was hard to shut down shut a nice running motor. I probably have watch that youtube video 100 times. Makes me smile every time. Cheers! Pottsie454
Hey Traditions Racing, if your still reading this thread Id like to talk to you about that power valve situation. I am pulling 10-12 pounds of vacuum at idle. I was hoping you could give me some insight to what power valve I might need. You dont accept private messages, but if you dont mind emailing me shoot me an email. Thanks buddy.
I sent you a friends request deal, this way you can PM me. First contact Quick-Fuel and see what P/V you have in your carb. Have a new base gasket for the carb/manifold and some fuel bowl and metering plate gaskets. I like to always have a new set of fuel bowl screw gaskets around too. Actually, your carb might have reusable gaskets and not need to replace them for a 1 time P/V change. Now go onto the Holley web site, www.Holley.com , research documents/technical library and they have very simple and detailed info on the P/V, its function and how to get one to match your engines vacuum. I bet before the hour is up, one of the other great guys here will post the link for you. Sorry, I'm just swamped today, TR
Thanks TR, youve been a great help. Make sure you keep sharing all of the knowledge you can with us younger guys so that its not lost in generations. Also a big thanks to Harry 0. He helped a great deal too.
Thanks man, you did good glad you got her running. Nothing makes me happier at this point in my life than to help folks. As long as I'm breathing, I wil help others. If you want to be like an engine builder, run it a while and then cut open the oil filter carefully. Cut as close to the base as possible. If you dont have or cant borrow a oil filter cutter opener thingy, punch first a small hole and then use some tin snips to cut it around. Seperate the base from the canister and pull out the filter pack. Open up the filter pleats and take a picture and report back your findings, TR
Absolutely. I plan on running up the motor to temperature several times before I call the break in good. I will do this and report back my findings. Thanks again.
Depending on the type of piston rings used and the finish of the cylinders, that will primarily determine how long for your brake in period. Try to vary the load on the engine while driving, this is the best thing you can do for the ring seal. Like drive a steady say 45-55 mph for a few miles, and when no-one is behind you back off on the gas for a bit and let it slow down under compression pressure. As things loosen up you can do this up to 65-75 MPH too. Cruise a bit, and then when no one is behind you, back off on the go pedal and allow the compression to gradually slow you down a bit. Again depending on the build this could last and be beneficial for from the first 50 to the first 500 miles. Then change the oil and filter, maybe check valve lash and timing, and you can start spanking the monkey, TR
Cool.. well unfortunately I still have a list of things that have to be done before its on the road. Are there anything I should do or should not do while I wait? Can I start it every now and then for a grin or should I not start it until its ready to drive?
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