I have the original E-brake cable from my '56 Packard rear end, obviously they're too long for use in my '34 Ford. Once I cut the cables to the right length what should I use for the end? It's got to be something really strong or the cables will simply pull out in an emergency situation, I'm thinking a wire clamp won't cut it. What have you dudes used?
For year I have made my own brake and clutch cables for harleys, and the one s I use in my model A. Make the ends out of Cold rolled steel, drill the hole for the cable to just fit in, and I mean just fit. After the cable is in push it through about a 1/16 of an inch beyond and fray the end, use solder and wet it completly. The end will never pull out.
Nads, are they individual cables(one from each backing plate?) if so,clamp them side by side,(in an arc),with some hardware store cable clamps,as they are plenty strong and are made for clamping cables.just use the right size. then eyeball some early ford products(late fifties to mid sixties),and get what i call a "bridle" off of the e-brake set up,or the whole shooting match for that matter. what you will have now is a piece that your previously fabbed cable "arc will lie in,and provisions to adjust the tension on the cable setup. while robbing these parts,may as well procure the return spring setup from the donor vehicle as well. eyeball it and you will the simplicity of it. as for the cable clamps,use one per side,leaving the center of the "arc" open,and remember, "don't saddle a dead horse" later holmes.
SteveG the solder is to bond the cable to the cable end made out of CRS. not to be the cable end. That is how OEM cable ends are done except I believe they use zinc. Anyway it has worked for years. but the key is to have the fit between the cable and the end so tight you have to heat the cable end to get it over the cable.
I got that, I was just making an observation. Thanks for the tip. I need to change the ends on the Camaro Cables that go to the Disc brakes on the S-10 Rear in my Sedan.
Sorry didn't mean to talk down or nuthin but just wanted to make sure someone didn't make the ends out of solder and get in trouble. Jon
Good tip Oldspeed. I wonder if - after drilling the main pass through hole - drilling the CRS end 1/64th or 1/32nd oversize for about 1/8th deep on the outside end would help as far as cable retainment goes. Your method of soldering the cable within the constant bore hole works fine, just thinking out loud here. I've done some JB Weld stuff and made spaces and oversize for a short ways holes so as to make a lock-in device for the epoxy.
It might work, but the chemical reaction between the solder and the base metal is what give the adhesion, not the strength of the solder, but if you balled sp? the end of the cable it for sure would never go through the hole, and look very clean on the end, good thought.
Have done this successfully by taking a length of brass rod, drilling a hole thru side of rod the dia. of the cable. On the side opposite the brake counter sunk a hole 1/2 way thru at about 2x the dia. of cable (like cp said). Inserted cable thru hole and frayed end to fill countersunk hole. When I did this for cables for motorcycles I soldered the frayed end, when I did it for car emergency brake cables I brazed it. Ground off surplus frayed cable and good to go.
How`s it goin Nads? The easyist way is to cut the cable or air cord about 6 inches longer (loop them though the pull).After taping or better mousing (with mousing wire) the ends so cord doesn`t unravel when cut.Go to a good hardware store and buy two crosby clamps or fist grips for each end.Clamp the cable ends together ,they will not come apart. Or do what I do,don`t screw with emer. brakes... Later...JR
TBR, I guess you didn't know that I lost the brakes on the '34, I'm going to put an E-brake on that thang. Thanks for all your tips fellas. I'm printing this one.
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