Howdy all. Tim here, Well I have been doing some work to my T roadster and I was having what I thought were fuel delivery issues, so I purchased a one of those universal electric fuel pumps that you can get at the local parts store I believe it is a Mister Gasket pump. I mounted it close to the tank and on the carb side of the pump I put one of those circular pressure regulators. At first the pressure overwelemed the carbs..then I dialed it to about 1.5 pounds. It seemed to work fine I started the car and all seemed well . I then shut the car off. Well I then flipped the ignition switch on and the pump didn't go on..no clicking nothing. It was dead It couldn't have pumped more than a gallon of fuel. So I went to the store and exchanged the pump for another new one. Can anyone tell me if there is a reason that the pump would quit? Could the pressure regulator cause too much stress? I would think that it would be designed to work in this fassion. I will probably put the new pump on today after work. Does anyone have an experience like this? Thanks Tim MBL
are you running this off of a relay,if so you may want to make sure it is good,and correct for the current.also make sure you have the correct wire size powering the pump.If there is too much stress on the pump you may need to run a return line like most new cars.
also it's a good idea to always put a filter ahead of an electric pump. Some pumps are more susceptible than others...some will lock up if a tiny piece of grit gets in them.
relay...x2 filter before the pump....LARGE filter, so as not to restrict the fuel flow into the pump. Pump needs to be mounted low & as close to the tank as possible. also...some pumps are not happy with ethanol. Shot of marvel with fillup helps. Not to hijack...anyone know of a simple method to check true % of ethanol in fuel?? rod...how would you plumb a return line into a carbed fuel system??
I had a Mr gasket go bad and replaced it last year. Plumbed the same as yours. Yes, won't hurt to be sure youre running the same wire gauge as what's coming out of the electric pump from the manufacturer. Run a filter before the pump. Mine has been running fine ever since.
I do have a filter before the pump...I don't have it running off a relay...just straight 12v...like the coil gets... Tim MBL
also some of those universal pumps are indeed junk, went thru that last summer with a friends car...pump died, went and bought a new one, it make one trip then died.
x2 on the universal pumps being junk. they are almost all made by the same company and I always carried at least one spare with me whenever I used one. if they don't die within one summer throw away and replace before the next.
Those little round regulators are junk too. I found that out the hard way with the dart. I don't remeber , but are you running one of those little clear glass filters? I hope not, they aren't called firestarters for nothing. You might have to step up and get a good holley pump and a decent regulator.
You gotta start somewhere, those of us who have been doing it a while know the value of spending $$$ for good parts, or designing the car to use reliable factory type parts (most cars can get by with a mechanical pump, as long as the engine has a place to mount it)
you mean 6v like the coil gets or 12 v like accessories? Definitely run a relay, you don't want the switch to fry, then think its the pump, only to find out later its a bad $4 switch. If it were my car, I would run the relay off of a oil pressure switch, when the motor dies you don't flood.
I replaced the older-style electric pump recently (leaking, after only about 20 years....) with a parts house piece that was very small, and looked almost like a fuel block with a wire running out of it. I was amazed that not only did it work, but was far quieter than any of the previous pumps I've used in the last forty years. Maybe those engineers that design this stuff actually are earning their money.....
All the suggestions on here are right on. But if you want a good reliable pump get a Carter P4070. It's the best one out there right now.
I verified the voltage from the switch to the pump. It was dead on 12V. I checked the continuity of the switch as well...all checked out. Ground was checked and I removed the pump and tested with the battery only..the pump was indeed dead. I'm not sure what the relay will do here...it had crossed my mind to put in an extra toggle for the pump...the switch I am using is the one that came in my 1940 ford column. thus far..the switch has not failed. Tim MBL
It takes the load off of the switch. Chances are the switch will never fail, but if it does, and you are out on the road, will you find a good 1940 ford column switch? and with a relay triggered by an oil pressure switch, you have less chance of this happening.
I dont thing the pumps last long when regulated down to 1 1/2 to 2 psi. They are partialy dead headed with the restirction. I would run a ballist resistor to lower the pump voltage down to 8 volts, it will lower the fuel presure, pump will run quiter and last longer.
If you had a modern EFI fuel pump that would work fine but most of the low pressure (carb style) pumps are designed to run at 12 to 13.5 volts. I don't know who makes the pump you bought from Mr. Gasket but regardless I wouldn't suggest you lower the voltage. I have never heard of any manufacturer suggesting that approach.
The pump he has is (like said before) the one that has lots of different names, but is made by the same company. I think it's most commonly known as a Puralator. It's the little square one. They have two versions, and he is using the smaller gph model.
That is sold here as the Facet fuel pump. There is a picture on this site, http://www.facet-purolator.com/solidstate.asp Also found this interesting comment on a marine site (http://www.moyermarine.com/facet.htm) ... [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Judging by the street talk we overhear, there are apparently still quite a few of the earlier FACET pumps (prior to the "E" series) being sold around the country. You may recall that we had reported a failure rate on these earlier pumps (prior to August of 2001) of slightly over 10%.[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]The obvious problem is that the manufacturer never issued a recall of the older pumps when they converted to the E series. This means that until all of the non-E series inventory in warehouses and dealer shelves is sold out, non-E series pumps will continue to be sold.[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]I mention this issue for two reasons:[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]To assure you of the reliability of the E series FACET pumps, and [/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]So that you can alert your friends who might be buying pumps elsewhere to be wary of accepting any FACET pump but an E series. [/FONT]
The Jalopy Journal
