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Technical Electric fans

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by ROBERT JAM, Sep 10, 2020.

    Joined: Nov 13, 2002
    Posts: 1,201


    Going to put an electric fan on my 40 ford. I’m wondering which would work the best, a pusher( front of the radiator) or puller ( in back or the radiator) ? Any help or experience with these would be appreciated.
  2. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 46,870


    Puller if it will fit.

    I'd try to get a mechanical fan in there and cooling well, first...if it has one that doesn't keep it cool, post some pictures and we might be able to offer suggestions. Although some cars are built such that you just can't fit a big enough fan in them.
  3. Puller with shroud is always the best design.

    I really like the 1993/94 Lincoln/T-Bird 2-speed fan. Factory electric fan for big V8s. I have put them in 2 cars with great results. Always a few on ebaY.

    Here is the Lincoln fan with the factory shroud.

    Here it is adapted to a '59 Chevy fan shroud. Like it was made for it.
    Lincoln fan 2.jpg
    Joined: Dec 14, 2009
    Posts: 2,676


    A puller fan is better
    See if you can find an oem fan that will fit
    Much better quality then you will find with the aftermarket fans.

    a mechanical fan is a better choice if it will fit
    Look at jag inline 6’s from the 80-90’s very slim profile on them
    olscrounger likes this.

  5. olscrounger
    Joined: Feb 23, 2008
    Posts: 3,980


    used Cooling Components fans in many 40's with walker radiator and AC--no issues
  6. Elcohaulic
    Joined: Dec 27, 2017
    Posts: 1,323


    To give you an idea how much better the mechanical fan is, they say the GM clutch fan pulls 9000 cfm fully engaged at 2000 rpm...
  7. Summit offers a REAL mechanical fan that will move a lot of air and they are available in several different sizes, I use these on everything and never run hot

    My old sedan can sit in bumper to bumper traffic for a hour and not overheat.

    These fans are all steel, not flexible aluminum. HRP

    Derale Rigid Race Fans

  8. Roger O'Dell
    Joined: Jan 21, 2008
    Posts: 1,140

    Roger O'Dell

    For the last I have switched to brushless type from SPAL, Have used SPAL for years, but the brushless are speed controlled.Can spin up as needed.
    squirrel likes this.
  9. i.rant
    Joined: Nov 23, 2009
    Posts: 3,013

    from Illinois
    1. 1940 Ford

    X2 on the Cooling Components puller & Walker radiator.
  10. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 1,713

    from New York

    A shroud is a must!
  11. Almostdone
    Joined: Dec 19, 2019
    Posts: 314


    Definitely. We often think shrouds are just for mechanical fans, but they equally apply to electric fans. They greatly increase efficiency.
    olscrounger likes this.
  12. X3 on Walker radiator with Cooling Components fan with shroud.

    hemihotrod66 likes this.
  13. Almostdone
    Joined: Dec 19, 2019
    Posts: 314


    1. Careful, recent experience tells us if we discuss electric fans we may be OK, but if we discuss how to wire them correctly we’ll be censored be the HAMB police.
  14. PotvinV8
    Joined: Mar 30, 2009
    Posts: 58


    The problem with that argument is, most hot rods don't overheat when the engine is pulling 2000 rpm. It's when they stop or sit in traffic at idle that things get warm. I guess you could pop it into neutral and hold the engine at 2,000 rpm in traffic, but that might be a little weird...
    Hnstray and pprather like this.
  15. Joe H
    Joined: Feb 10, 2008
    Posts: 947

    Joe H

    I know a guy with a '65 GTO clone with 455 that gets up towards 220 when running around town. Its hot enough it don't like to restart. Called and ask what I would do. I suggested a new radiator ( he still had original 1965 2 core ), new fan shroud, and new clutch for the fan he had.
    Instead of what I suggested, he bought a new aluminum radiator with dual 12" electric puller fans and solid shroud. When I say solid shroud, I mean only openings are for the fans which set 3/4 inch off the core. His looks just like this one, rad-6374s-hdd1.jpg .
    The installer wired it through the dash, no relay, no heavy wire, just a simple on off switch. He came by complaining it still runs hot! I explained that the air can't get through at highway speeds, and the fans are too small and are lacking the proper amps to run. It ran cooler with the 50+ year radiator. His dual 12" fans only pull 850 CFM each!
    Even a crappy mechanical fan pulls more air then that.
    Point I am making is, be sure you know what you are purchasing and you know how to install it.
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2020
    Elcohaulic and Hnstray like this.
  16. Joe H
    Joined: Feb 10, 2008
    Posts: 947

    Joe H

    If a proper working mechanical fan can pull 9000 cfm at 2000 rpm, it surely can pull 3000 + cfm at idle. That is more then enough to cool about any engine if everything is working right.
    Joined: Nov 13, 2002
    Posts: 1,201


    Thanks for the response on this it was helpful
  18. coilover
    Joined: Apr 19, 2007
    Posts: 616

    from Texas

    Tried cheapies but now it's Cooling Components and problem solved.
  19. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 7,132

    jimmy six

    Prestige Thunderbird in Santa Fe Springs Ca. offers a 7 blade fan in the 15-16” range. I use a 6 blade and as long as there is water movement with the thermostat open at idle you will be fine. I had to put on a smaller water pump pulley to do this.
  20. The 39 guy
    Joined: Nov 5, 2010
    Posts: 2,876

    The 39 guy

    I am running electric puller fans in my 40 Ford coupe with a mild Flathead and 39 Ford convertible wit 383. Both work well
    I do parades and highway driving with both.
    Check my 40 coupe build thread for details.
  21. Marcosmadness
    Joined: Dec 19, 2010
    Posts: 361

    from California

    Get a hand held temperature gun and find out what is really happening. Read the temperature at the top of the radiator and again at the bottom. There should be a significant drop in temperature. If not , there are lots of things that could be wrong other than the fan. Cooling involves a lot of components other than the fan and they all have to work together. Is the water pump good and working correctly? Is the water pump turning too fast or too slow(pulley sized correctly)? Is the thermostat working and what range is it? Is the radiator in good condition and properly sized? Does the radiator have a shroud? Do you have an aluminum or brass radiator? How many rows of tubes in the radiator core. Is the radiator properly sized (cooling capacity) for the engine in the car? Is the front of the radiator clear of obstructions? Then there are the engine components that affect the water temperature to consider. Engine running too lean or with too much ignition advance. A blown head gasket or a missing thermostat. If you put a big enough fan on the car it will probably help but it may be a bandaid over the real problem that needs to be corrected.
  22. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 5,878

    from Oregon

    I run both a mechanical fan on the engine, and a pusher ahead of the radiator on my '39 Chevy with 350 SBC. The pusher has an adjustable thermostat, and it's set at 185 degrees, so it only comes on if I get stuck in traffic on hot days. The engine usually runs around 170-175 degrees, but sitting in traffic on 90 degree days I saw the engine temps creep up around 200 or better. So adding the adjustable pusher solved this.
    I made it a pusher because it's hidden behind the grille, and in front of the radiator. So I don't have to look at an electric fan under the hood. Keeps my engine bay looking cleaner, but still does the job.

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