Hi guys. A few days ago we took the '37 with the 354 in it across the street for its first drive and it ran very well. After we were done, we put it up and went to bed, and the next day it would not start. Prior to the test drive, there were times when it would not start (this occurred more and more frequently up until it quit), then suddenly fired right up and ran fine. Now, it doesn't even try to start. Just cranks and cranks and cranks. The engine has fuel and good compression, and the rotor is turning. I'm not very knowledgeable in the realm of electricity, but I know a few things as far as the ignition system goes. As for our wiring situation, it is just a temporary setup to get the car to run as we are not quite to the point of installing the wiring harness, but it has worked fine up to around the point we moved the battery to the trunk. I don't believe that this is the issue, but at this point we will try anything. For the switch, we have a battery kill switch (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1432/overview/) with a hot wire from the battery on one side, and the wire from the + terminal on the coil and fuel pump connected to the other. To crank it, we have a trigger connected to the small starter post and the hot wire from the battery connected to the kill switch. The + terminal on the coil has the wire going to the kill switch and the red wire from the distributor connected to it, and the - terminal has the black distributor wire. If you need a picture of this, let me know. When the switch is flipped, the fuel pump runs, the starter has power, and the coil shows 13 volts in the on position and 11 or so while cranking. Both terminals on the coil show the same voltage. I tried to test the coil using a test light, the positive terminal stayed lit and I believe the negative did as well. I thought that it should pulse while cranking. I thought this meant a bad ignition module, so ultimately we replaced some things. I know it's not the way to go about it, but at least we've eliminated the possibilities of a bad distributor or coil. Here's what we've done to try and fix it: Swapped the coil with one that we know is good, got a new distributor (ours was still under warranty), made a new coil wire, and stepped up to a larger gauge on the wire going from the + battery terminal to the switch. I also bypassed the switch with a wire going directly from the battery to the + terminal on the coil and still no fire. The battery is grounded to the frame in the back, and the engine is grounded from the header to the frame up front. I have not put the test light on the new coil yet, I was frustrated when the new distributor and coil did not fix it and am in the house now thinking and asking you guys for help. I hope it's something simple that I'm overlooking, but I need some help to figure it out. Thanks guys.