I'm going to replace my binding & butchered '39 brake & clutch assy that is in my '35 pickup. I've been told to find a good '39 assy. Can I use a '40? How about a '40 Mercury set? My Ford parts manual exploded diagram shows that '40 - '48 are the same. How is the '39 different from the later year Ford assemblies? My frame has been cut already (w/ a torch pre-1960) & drilled for a '39 assy, so I am assuming it would not make sence to go back to a '35 style pedal setup. I want to fix this puppy right the first time so I could use some advise.
The 39 Ford is the only pedal assembly with the M/cyl mount and the easy clutch linkage hook up. The 40 pedals require a belcrank set up to opperate the clutch. It's doable but more work.
Eric I have a 39 set up if you wanna see if that will work for you. Its not for sale to see how it will work you are welcome to use them....Danny
This is what 39 pedals look lile out of the car. I have no idea what is interchangeable but I guess the 39 style has the master cyl provision on the assy like in the photo? Saw LOTS of pedal sets at the puyallup swap...
This is what 39 pedals look lile out of the car. I have no idea what is interchangeable but I saw LOTS of pedal sets at the puyallup swap...
The 39 assembly is the only one with a master cylinder mount and the clutch linkage hook up on the inside (the green lever in this picture next to the red tag). The clutch pedal shaft (green here) goes through the brake pedal pivot and moves the green lever by the red tag which is in line with the 35-38 trans lever. 40 on up won't have this feature. The easy to recognize feature is where the clutch linkage connects to the pedal assembly.
To elaborate, the '40-48 setup has the clutch lever at the root of the pedal, so it is maybe 6 inches to the left of where it is now in the car. The shaft is stationary and so cannot easily be converted to the '39 design. Only reasonable way to use the later setup would be easy if you were building, but serious trouble in a running car: Remove throwout shaft from trans, replace with late shaft. Drill some small holes in frame rail and add cross shaft and bracket, hookit to the pedal. All the parts needed are readily available new, and the setup wouldn't be difficult, but of course this requires removing the trans, a nasty job in a '35. Why not grind welds as needed, disassemble the '39 setup, and find and kill the bind? New bushings are available for it--Drakes parts.
Ahhh, Bruce beat me to it. Looks like what you have is salvagable. I was in pretty much the same situation and made it work. Cut away the clutch pedal, install new bushing in the brake pedal. From there it is pretty easy to make a new clutch pedal shaft from some DOM tubing. Cut to length, add a grease fitting, drill the proper holes to allow the grease to flow through to the outer bushings, weld the old "yoke end" to the new shaft, and weld the other end shut. From the looks of what you posted you may need a new clutch pedal though.
We finally got the assembly out late last night. My new driver's side exhaust pipe limited the available room & made for some serious cussing (& beer drinking). Once we had it out I hit it with some penitrating oil and loostened it up. There is no grease fitting were the clutch shaft runs through the frame mount and that was were she was binding. I greased the brake pedal and worked some of the grease into the mounting bracket bushing and she now swings easily. I plan on re-installing it this afternoon. Thanks for all the great info.
Cool you got it worked out. I think there should have been a grease fitting where that big weld holding the clutch pedal on is. (or maybe it's on the yoke side? I forget) You pump the clutch pivot full of grease and it flows through a series of holes and passages until it reaches the outermost (brake) bushing.
"Are the 39 passenger car and truck pedal assemblies the same?" Commercial, that is 1/2 ton passenger based pickup, is same as passenger. Truck with big frame is entirely different parts.
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