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Hot Rods Drums and Discs

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by rustydusty, Aug 25, 2010.

  1. I am currently building a '29 Chevy sedan on a very limited budget. I know discs and drums have been used forever but my issue is I have '34 Chevy spindles w/'40 ford drums for the front and a dana 44 rear out of a '62 Studebaker with aftermarket disc brakes for the rear. Is this going to work with a proportioning valve? I also have an unkown rear from the '34 that was thrashed hard dragracing in the '60's with '40 ford drums but I'd rather use the dana 44. Let me know what you think!
     
  2. V8 Bob
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 3,132

    V8 Bob
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Drums and Discs

    <HR style="COLOR: #e5e5e5; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #e5e5e5" SIZE=1>"I am currently building a '29 Chevy sedan on a very limited budget. I know discs and drums have been used forever but my issue is I have '34 Chevy spindles w/'40 ford drums for the front and a dana 44 rear out of a '62 Studebaker with aftermarket disc brakes for the rear. Is this going to work with a proportioning valve?"

    Yeah, it'll work, not sure a PV will help, but it's totally basakwards to how the design should be. The fronts do most of the braking, so any disc/drum system should always have the discs on the front.
    Why is it that the brakes many times are built on a "budget"? (Parts that are haphazard, just lying around, what's in the shop, or my favorite, masters/wheel cylinders/calipers taken from a 30-40 year old wreck) Save some money and buy a disc conversion for the fronts if you intend on using the 44 with discs, along with a proper dual master, adjustable PV, and residual valves if needed.
    Don't mean to be harsh Rusty, but the brake system on a custom vehicle should be well thought out, based on proven designs, and built with only new or rebuilt parts. This should be one of the most important steps in building a car. Done right, costs can be very reasonable and likely one of the least expensive steps during the entire build. Most important, the car will stop safely. IMO.


    <HR style="COLOR: #e5e5e5; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #e5e5e5" SIZE=1>
     
  3. Automotive Stud
    Joined: Sep 26, 2004
    Posts: 4,387

    Automotive Stud
    Member

    No way you should even be considering using disc on the rear and drum up front. As said above, don't just slap together one of the most important parts of the car. Do it right.
     
  4. You guys are right that I shouldn't skimp on the brakes. This is why I joined this forum! I will talk the wife out of the cash to do it right. After all, she and my two young boys will be riding with me! (that's why I sold the 3-window coupe and bought a sedan)
     
  5. frankinplymouth
    Joined: Sep 6, 2008
    Posts: 358

    frankinplymouth
    Member
    from oregon

    I just went through the same thing and had to take the 98 Mustang rear discs off and convert to drums. My front drums still suck but it is better..........Ray
     
  6. 53sled
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 5,817

    53sled
    Member
    from KCMO

    1. use a master cylinder that came with the same size front wheel cylinders early mustang or chevelle are popular.
    2. get a cheap rear with the correct wheel cylinders to match, and you should have a system that works well out of the gate. Most important is keeping the bore sizes like they were intended
     

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