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drip rail seam sealer?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by gotit, Dec 4, 2011.

  1. gotit
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 357

    gotit
    Member

    On my 54 chevy half the filler from between the roof and drip rail was gone so I wire wheeled the rest out and cleaned the seam. Should I replace this sealer? If so what is it or what should I use?
     
  2. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,021

    chaddilac
    Member

    Yep seam sealer works!
     
  3. gotit
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 357

    gotit
    Member

    This should be fun. Its a little tight in the drip rail and to make it look nice will be work.

    Thank you for the response
     
  4. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,021

    chaddilac
    Member

    I'd just run a small amount in there and smear it with my finger... Oh... tape off both sides first though so you can peal the tape off after smearing it and get a nice tight line!!!
     

  5. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 6,215

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    You really need to reseal it. The choice is between the old fashioned seam sealer in a tube, or can, that air dries, or the newer 2 part, tube with mixer stuff. Although I usually like the more old fashioned way of doing things, that new 2 part stuff is great!
     
  6. racinman
    Joined: Dec 30, 2008
    Posts: 951

    racinman
    Member Emeritus

    I like the tube kind called Drip Check...
     
  7. outlaw256
    Joined: Jun 26, 2008
    Posts: 2,022

    outlaw256
    Member

    yes you really want to replace it.we use 3m products. they got good seam sealer.been using for yrs.and like what chadillac said use tape. run a line of tape all the way down the roof by the rail and tape on the rail itself then you will have a tight line of sealer and alot less mess to clean up. cause when that shit dries its there for awhile.
     
  8. 3M PN 8307 Self Leveling Seam Sealer is what your looking for. See if your local paint jobber has a gun you can use. Basically its a "flowable" seam sealer, if you put some on a flat board it turns into a flat puddle, put it betwwen two objects i.e. drip rail it flows to fill the void. Its also paintable in 30 minutes. Put it over a 2K urethan or epoxy primer. If it's going to sit in there awhile I would scuff it with a scotch brite before you start the paint process. Good Luck
     
  9. gotit
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 357

    gotit
    Member

    Thank you for all the tips. I just learned my buddy that works for a body shoo here in town will be back this week from PA so I will see if I can get him to get me some of the product.
     
  10. Apply the seam sealer, spread it thinly with your finger then final work it with an acid brush and laquer thiiner. Works really good and is easy to do. Work about a 2 foot section at a time.
     
  11. roundvalley
    Joined: Apr 10, 2005
    Posts: 1,776

    roundvalley
    Member

    Get a large syringe and load it with seam sealer.
    Mask the edges.
    You can insert it further into the seam an have more control.
     
  12. cleatus
    Joined: Mar 1, 2002
    Posts: 2,277

    cleatus
    Member
    from Sacramento

    Yeah, the self-leveling stuff is awesome - like magic
     
  13. macs67
    Joined: Apr 21, 2010
    Posts: 76

    macs67
    Member
    from oregon

    rv roof vent sealerits self leveling & $9.00 a caulk tube, another option
     
  14. If you only have a couple of small cracks in the old drip rail sealer,can you just fill them in with new sealer, or do I need to scrape it all out and start over?
     
  15. Jay Tyrrell
    Joined: Dec 9, 2007
    Posts: 1,631

    Jay Tyrrell
    Member

    Yup!
     
  16. Ebbsspeed
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 6,257

    Ebbsspeed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Will the self-leveling stuff work where the drip rail drops down at a slant behind the B pillar, or will it all run down the rail and end up in a pool on the deck lid? Remember, neither rust, nor gravity, ever sleeps.
     
  17. Make a dam of masking tape at the end of that B pillar and start there, use very little in that area ( enough to cover the seam and than move on to the flat areas of the drip rail ) works on Expedition roofs that slope down towards the front.
     
  18. Von MoPar
    Joined: Jun 4, 2006
    Posts: 359

    Von MoPar
    Member
    from Australia

    Great info, Thanks........
     
  19. 351cmach
    Joined: Feb 2, 2010
    Posts: 83

    351cmach
    Member
    from Ma

  20. beater32
    Joined: Mar 23, 2008
    Posts: 370

    beater32
    Member

    3m Drip Check
     
  21. gotit
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 357

    gotit
    Member

    That seems like a perfect setup. I like this idea.

    Thanks
     

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