Dont hurt me! spraying rustoleum question

this dang hurricane is putting a damper on my painting! too humid to want to try my first coat of paint.... luckily next week is supposed to dry out and I will try it then. from what I've seen it looks like I am going to stick to the 8:4:1 ratio that I've seen.


Thanks for everyones tips, and good luck to everyone who is in irene's path. looks like the amount of water/surf is going to be more of an issue than the wind!

 

Go to an autobody supply storeand ask them what they do with the mixed paint that was left over,that someone never picked up etc.I told them my son needed paint for his high school voc-tech auto body class.I walked out with gallons ,qts,pints.Some were single stage some were basecoat.Thats how i learned to spray.

 

Thats a great idea!

 

Having just spent $800 on color and clear for my Diamond T, I can almost see why you'd consider using Rust-O-Leum or tractor enamel. Almost, but not quite.

Brian

 

I have sprayed 4 cars with rustoleum. I followed the directions on the can the first time and after 24 hours it still wasn't dry. I use laquer thinner thinned at 30% and it worked great. I know you don't mix laquer and enamel but this works fantastic.
Try it.
My suburban is painted with rustoleum, no one believes me when I tell them that.

 

I have sprayed Rustolium on the undercarriage and lower edge of some trailers thinned as recommended for spraying on the can, works fine and is pretty durable, but for my money I have found that industrial Imron HG 3500 is a better deal. (cheaper)

By the time you buy thinner and activator for Rustoleum, the Imron is cheaper gallon for gallon, plus the coverage is about DOUBLE, and cure time is a mere fraction of even activated Rusteloum.

I have left leftover portions of both in cups with lids, the activated Rustolium NEVER kicks, (it stays liquid), with the Imron I have a hockey puck in a few hours.

I am surprised that it seems as if I am about the only person who uses this stuff.

 

Hell, I aplaud you. My car right now, Im going to brush on my rustoleum paint. Im tired of baby sitting my fun stuff.

 

I'm interested....Where can someone go to buy this Imron?

 

I get all of mine from a DuPont auto paint store in my old hometown. I would think MOST DuPont stores might carry this stuff.

IMO, it is a fairly high end paint for a good price.

http://s245.photobucket.com/albums/gg64/JMD_LCMS/LR Shop/Imron 35/#!cpZZ1QQtppZZ36

All of the trailers in this album are painted with this paint, including the colors. (not just the bottom)

I am paying A LOT less than $100 a gallon for paint, reducer and activator. I don't want to give you stupid prices because I don't remember how much for the activator, but the paint is about $40 a gallon depending on color. It has saved me loads of money painting trailers vs. enamel.

 

I would be careful painting with Imron that paint is very toxic. I used that in vo-ed made me sick and that was with a good mask and a paint booth.Just my 2 cents.

 

While they use the Imron trade name and mixing scheme on this industrial paint, it is my understanding that it is NOT a urethane, but an enamel.

 

Amen brother

 

Activator and hardner for Rustoleum? I thought the laquer thinner did it.
A quart of rustoleum is $6.00 at homedepot. Laquer thinner is $15 for a gallon. You can mix your colors for whatever shade you would like and have less than $100 in the whole project.

 

Not 100% sure if Rustoleum and Tremclad are the same formula, but it's interesting to note that:

(1) Tremclad primers/paint need to be stripped right off if you're planning to ever paint the car right in the future.

(2) Tremclad comes off *easy* with EasyOff Oven Cleaner. Spray EasyOff, wait a few minutes, wipe it off with a wet rag and then wash your panel thoroughly.

 

IDK, being into paint for less than $100 for a "real paint" is imo fairly economical. I am certain that 1 gallon of this industrial Imron is more than enough to paint ANY HAMB friendly car or truck. (this paint is quite a bit cheaper than any primer I use these days)

I am not saying that I don't like Rustolium, because I do, I just think that this stuff is better for "close enough" to the same price, and as anyone who has ever painted a room with "bargain paint" will have to take note of, coverage matters.

About 1/2 of the trailers in my above link are covered with just one coat.

 

Where do you get imron for less than 100.00 ?

 

This thread is on a par with the "can I dilute Bondo with thinner and spray it". Great stuff.

Brian

 

There might be a market for spray-able Bondo with the guys that chop tops with chain saws.

 

ok, tonight I sprayed my first paint! appears I got two out of three items painted. one will need to be stripped down and started from scratch I guess.... the frame and swing arm need another coat but the first one came out great! the front forks fish eyed badly though...

 

There was a sprayable polyester body filler around 20years ago.

Long before that there was a lead spray gun on the market. I have one of those and even used it (once)..... It made some great pinholes, which was all the sprayable bondo gun did, too, as I understood it.

 

For an accelerator I've used Japan Drier...

 

I ended up using 4oz of paint, a little less than 2oz of naptha thinner and about a half oz of valspar enamel hardener. I was surprised at how well it covered on the first coat! judging by what you guys were giving for recoat tests I could have done a second coat within an hour or two but the temp started dropping and I had to be able to bring my 28 back in the garage. I still don't really know why the forks fish eyed. must have been some contamination on them. I didn't wipe them down with any solvent after scuffing the primer as I was worried it might take off the fresh primer.

 

You've just learned why using cheap enamel is the last thing to paint anything you care about, and you're still enthused about it? It'll take days for that to dry enough to sand, although that's a part impossible to sand the paint off. Blast it, get ALL the primer and color off, or it'll wrinkle under whatever new finish you use.

Brian

 

I'm enthused about your progress, two of the parts came out well. Anyone have any ideas about the fork issue? They are cast aluminum, right? Did they have any pitting that was filled?
I enjoy threads about doing more with less. I've seen lots of threads with problems on high dollar paint as
well.

 

It fish eyed due to your prep work. You either didnt get it clean enough or didnt get the cleaning solvents baked out.
Any paint will do the same thing.

 

sounds like you put twice as much hardener as suggested

8oz to 1 gallon (128oz) is 16 to 1 and you did 8 to 1

not that I think it really matters in the end you'll still have rustoleum on there

 

it was rock hard this morning when I checked. I will sand it off tonight. I used thinner and hardener that BOTH promote dry time. I will strip to bare metal and try again. After the positive experience with the other two pieces I have to say it was something I didn't clean off the forks, not the paint.

agreed.

if you read, I put 1/2 oz of hardener to 4 oz of paint.




again, I'm not saying this is high quality paint. I am practicing mixing paint and using my spray gun. this is a honda minitrail, not a hot rod

it did however come out better than I expected it to (my expectations were not very high) in fact I'm surprised I didn't have to strip and recoat every part I sprayed last night.

 

It will be fine. I think most people have a hard time with rustoleum due to they dont put in hardner/activator. Any paint without hardner/activator will have sanding or longevity issues
Its looking good.

 

1/2 oz hardener in 4 oz of paint is 8 to 1

the instructions you posted say use 8 oz in 1 gallon which is 16 to 1

like I said you used twice as much hardener as the instructions called for, I would usually start by following the recommended ratios

 

I just painted a Tokheim 39 gas pump green and white rusto (Dino colors) and turned out pretty darn nice for the first time. I just added a little acetone to the paint (it called for 15%, but I added a touch more) and it flowed out nice. I just took my time between coats(not a fast flash time like lacquers). The only problem I saw was you have to wait at least 24 hours to really handle the parts and repaint if necessary. I had to touch up a couple places and used an aerosol sprayer from NAPA. It covered quite well. My next gas pump is going to be painted with rustoleum, also. It's a lot cheaper.