Features Doing Falcons Right

It's not like I asked if I needed a proportioning valve. Lol
Besides every time I try to search some thing it says system message no results found.


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This is what my 62 Falcon turned into after 50 years. It grew up to be a Vintage Dirt Modified that has won 3 races.

 

1967 Mustang is the dual MC I hear about for stock drums. Good luck.


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The late 60's Mustang masters come in drum/drum or disc/drum, so regardless of which you use they're a good choice. That's what I put on my '63 when I built it.

 

Can someone tell me if the early falcon shop manuals cover the station wagons too? Trying not to over think this.
Thanks


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Yup!

 

It's all in there.

 

Dont know why its sideways sorry guys

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And alittle update 15x7 on my wagon

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I have the Granada disc brake set up on 61 and am using the 67 mustang disc/drum manual brake master. rear brakes are drum on a 9 inch. car stops great even at high speeds at the drag strip.

 

Nice clean work, Evil!

 

Because I'm queer for anything electrical and I cant leave well enough alone, I ditched my Painless adjustable fan controller for this really spiffy Ron Francis AR-67 fan controller:

http://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=AR-67
http://www.ronfrancis.com/images/AR67-INST.pdf
I really dig the "run on" feature that enables the fan to run for 2 minutes after the ignition is shut off, provided the engine temp is in the "on" range. I've got my "on" temp set at around 205F. Shuts off at 190F. Engine is happiest in that range.

 

I havent posted for a while because I havent done much lately.
Still consumed with VW stuff. Been building tub kits for busses so that people can go lower without rubbing their tires. But once I finish up and sell my bus I am going to get started on the wagon. I want to bag it and will be asking a bunch of stupid questions so I can do it fairly cheep but still reliable and safe since I want to have the family in it.
I did get some 4 lug Tru-Spokes from Need Louvers

and I am trying to figure out a way to cut and weld my spindles to make 2"-2.5" drop spindles. I am a certified welder but still open to suggestions. I was thinking of doing multi pass T.I.G. or even dual shield and tossing them in kitty litter to cool super slow. They are forged steel so with the correct rod I could even arc them. I will start making a jig so that everything is in the correct spot when welded back. I will then use the scarebird kit to swap to 4 lug disc, Thanks again to Need louvers for all the info.
Here is a picture Craig510s spindles, he cut out 1.5" of the top of his spindles. I plan on taking out 2-2.5"" and adding it to the bottom so that only the spindle and brake mounting holes move up.



He then added spacers to the bottom to basically make a 1.5" drop spindle.

 

Why? Cutting coils, and trimming the tower outer can get you 4-5" down, without the potentially disastrous results if you don't get this right. Plus, with a relocated upper control arm, you will get sports car class handling.

 

I will do the relocating and I will likely narrow the upper and lower control arms also.
I will be bagging it and don't want the geometry that far off. I have 100% confidence in my welds and am sure when I am done it will be as strong if not stronger than before.
I will have the spindles checked/tested through my work to make sure there are no stress cracks or voids before bolting them to my car.
Once again I would never do anything that would potentially put my family in danger.
Cutting enough coils to lower it 5" with the relocating the upper control arms would make your BJs bind way too much and would be unsafe, from my own experience.
In my 66 mustang I cut coils and did the arm relocating and I destroyed the balljoints I ended up pie cutting the upper control arms and boxing them in to correct it. Also I had to relocate the stabilizer bar because it was resting on the frame.

 

There are wedges that solve the ball joint issue. I run 5" down.

 

The wedges made my 17s rub on the upper control arm.
I know you know what you are talking about and I appreciate the help/advise but I want to go about it a different way. If for any reason I feel that it's not safe I will go a different route.

Just in case I would still like to know your setup. 5" lowered sounds awesome. Can you post a picture? Did you have to shim the upper control arms out to correct the camber or did you narrow the lower control arm? Did you have any issues with the stabilizer bar hitting the frame? I want to explore all my options and go from there.
Thank you

 

Who sells the wedges?


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I like these guys... good tech and products. They have fair prices and if they find cheaper shipping they refund the difference that you paid for shipping. http://dazecars.com/dazed/test.html#1

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I just made my own off the dimensions I got from someone who had some.
I can't justify paying for something I can make.

 

Thank you. I wish I had a shop and time make this kind of stuff. Cheers!


1963 Ford Falcon Sedan Base.

 

finally picking her up, 3 inch drop and brake lines next ! wheels are just in primer.

 

I have the Granada front brake set up. I am using V8 suspension and steering parts from a 63 Falcon. I have been fighting bump steer ever since. I just read that this is a common issue with the Granada spindles caused by the location of the tie rod on the spindle. Any truth to this and is there a fix? I have thought about changing out the entire set up but I don't want mustang II. I am not removing my shock towers. I have been looking at some aftermarket set ups that use a steering rack and coil overs. They aren't cheap. I have been looking into bumps steer kits but not sure if it will solve my problem.

 

This is a common problem. Go to The Ford Falcon News (TFFN) and do a search on bump steer. The common cure is to install 1965 V8 manual steering components for about $500 new, or less $ if used. I did it last month and am very pleased with results.

If you're running '63 V8 components already, all you need are '65 manual steering center link, inner tie rods, and idler arm. You then need a 1967 Mustang power steering pitman (part# C7ZA-3590C) arm which a little harder to find.

 

thanks Mike

 

Oh, and if you can't find a C7ZA3590C pitman arm, the C9ZA3590A will work. All of this is assuming you are currently running the '63 steering box with the 1 1/8 sector shaft.

For a good deal on a pitman arm (if he has any more), reach out to www.stangerssite.com. He has a website, but you need to phone him to place an order.

 

I am using the 1 1/8 gear box. the center link is 63 1/2 model year if that matters.

 

Doesn't matter.

 

Going to drop my falcon 3 inches and do the Shelby drop. I'm also installing improved spring perches, and new suspension and steering components. Big question is how much do I cut on my coil springs.

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Shelby "drop" doesn't really lower the car.