The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by falconizer_62, Jul 23, 2008.
drag race occasionally, street driven.
Might try Laurel Mountain Mustangs. I just got springs for my '63 there, and much cheaper than anywhere else.
65-66 Mustang springs fit. What there are a ton of choices. I run 6-leaf springs in my customer's cars. Stiff, but not too stiff. Can be had from a variety of suppliers. I like them from ESPO, made with 2" less arch. Not the same springs, exactly, but I run the ESPO 6-leaf springs, with less arch, in my daily-driver '60 Falcon. Downright sporty, with 560-lb. coils, 1" front bar, and Shelby control arm relocation.
I would run these http://www.calvertracing.com/store/split-mono-leaf-2000-p-5.html
Best leaf you can put under the rear of that car!
For the time being, I'm running five leaf stock length rear springs on mine that I got from a vendor called "Spring King" on egay.
This past summer, I decided to ditch the slapper bars because they just weren't doing it for the rear suspension.
I went with a set of Cal-Tracs bars and the Calvert Racing adjustable rear shocks. The shocks, bars and springs were just to big'a bite for me, money-wise, all at once.
I plan on getting a set of the split mono-leafs after the first of the year.
The dudes that I know that have the mono-leafs, swear by them.
Although opinions may vary.....
While we’re talking about springs and rear axles, I’ve a question for the guys running big-tube rear axles in their cars: I’m sticking a ‘56 Ford wagon rear (Dana 44) in my wife’s ‘61 Futura. It came without the shock plate. What can I do to replace them? I’m still running the narrow early Falcon springs.
I am running an 8.8, from a Ranger. I just got late 60's Mustang plates and u-bolts. The u-bolts are outboard of the springs a little, but it hasn't been a problem, in 10k miles. The Mustang vendors have them for 3" axle tubes, as well as all of the stock Mustang sizes.
I got these from Speedway Motors. I had to modify the shock mount a little but they worked well. They also have a provision for a sway bar link if you need it.
Thanks guys. It was a bit of a worry that all of the aftermarket ones are set up for wider springs, but it sounds like that's not a problem.
Falconizer your rattle can build continues to impress!
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Found on the net......looks bad @ss.
Here is a shopt of mine with my grandosn at the wheel.He loves to come outsdie with me and work on my car. He is always asking are we going to work on the car today.
I'm also running an 8.8" out of an Explorer, and have the 3.25" axle and set up for wider springs. Since the center pin on the new springs still keeps the springs centered I used the wider Explorer spring plates. But I cut 1/4" flat bar and tacked it to my spring plates on each side of the spring to take up the space. Not sure that it's really needed, but I felt better about not having the gap on each side.
Is that price for the pair, or ... glump ... for one?
Shipping weight shows 53lbs. That's two.
haha, thanks man. a little bit of spray paint goes a long way...
I somehow managed to puke the torque converter seal on the AOD that my trans guru built for me, although I can't imagine how I did it....
Anyhow, while it at the trans shop I figured I'd annoy my buddy and install this in the car while the trans was on the bench:
Thanks to Virginia HAMB'r B/GasFalcon, I also got all the stuff to delete the column shift:
Note the new harness I made to go from the cars old harness connectors under the dash to the shifter mounted neutral safety/back up light switches...
I figured it would be easier to wire the neutral/back up switches on the bench:
There's more commin'
Now that`s a really sanitary install.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
I finally had a little time to get back on it again. Gotta get those AC vents rollin'!
Just finished swapping the rear leaf springs on my '63. Found a pair of 5 leafs at Laurel Mountain for under $200, and they really help the sag I had. The old springs were nearly flat, and when I bought the car the previous owner had those big ugly shackles on the back, which gave the springs a reverse arc!
It was a pain getting one of the front spring eye bolts out, and ended up cutting it off on each side of the spring. Then I drilled out the frame to make it the same size as the sleeve, and replaced the front bolts with 9/16"x7" fine thread bolts. Worked much better than the old step bolts. Put poly bushings all around in the new springs.
Do you have a part number? all I see is 64 and up springs which are wider , correct?
Yes, the later springs are wider. I dug through my receipts and found this number: SKU #42-229. But when I entered it at their site it still doesn't come up? The description is 1960-1963 Falcon & Comet leaf springs, but for some reason that doesn't come up either. Just got these the 28th of October, so not sure why they aren't in their list now. Might give them a call at their toll free number 1-888-925-7669 and ask.
I'm seriously considering using this system on my '63. Has anyone used it or seen it installed?
Here's a link for more info. It was originally designed for the Nova but now they make it for the Falcon/Mustang.
That link shows Mustang options, but nothing for Falcon. Falcons are narrower.
Kinda' interesting Karl, never seen that before.
I went to the "how to" section and downloaded the 64-65 Mustang mini sub and upper control arm instructions- looks like that set up uses coil springs and the original shock towers...or am I missing something?
I know that shock towers wont be an issue with the engine your planning to run.....
Check out this little video I did of my 63 Sprint .. been a few yrs..
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/Swvams5bwMQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Check out this write up. They have it for the Falcon.
And this Ebay auction with application notes.
Hey Al. I was hoping someone has this system or has seen it to talk a little bit about it. I think if I go with this system I'll get the unisteer manual rack and pinion setup, drag race type disc brakes, Fatman 2.5" drop spindles and do the Shelby drop. I'm still looking in to some way of reducing or eliminating the shock towers. At the very least I will be trimming them down and re-supporting them with the chassis work to be done. The car goes into the chassis shop Jan. 4th so I need to make a decision pretty quick like.
I don't think that CPP system adds anything over the stock Ford system. The upper A Arms are still in the stock location with the spring off the upper. All they are is tubular with possibly re-angled upper ball joints. You still have to do a Shelby drop if you want to improve the camber curve.
The lower set up has no real advantage in my mind. The stock system with the Tension Rod when set up with good bushings or better yet Rod Ends is stronger in my mind. The work involved to cut off the stock mounts and install the heavier bracket doesn't make sense. The adjustable Tension Rods that are available for the stock set up allows for adjusting wheelbase side to side and can help with Caster Adjustments - something this system can't do. In fact this doesn't locate off any existing chassis holes, so I see an easy opportunity for not getting it perfectly square.
If you aren't getting rid of the shock towers then I think the stuff from Global West or Total Control Products are far superior.
Just my Opinion .....
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