Technical Does anyone know where to find a set of these?

The engine is running. I'm not taking it apart to measure / count the gears. If you can be a little patient I will measure it when it comes due for a rebuild.



Or... measure the C-C gear spacing on any 300, count the teeth on a stocker set, and go from there.

 

I'm gathering pieces for a Ford 6 powered modified roadster. Already have a "Champ" quick change in stock and waiting for construction to begin, so that should be enough whining gears to satisfy me. My interest was the infinitely adjustable timing of these gears, not necessarily the noise. I'd like to put an access port in the timing cover to play with cam timing and not pull the whole front off the engine every time. Hope to eventually build a cross flow head from a pair of Chevy LS heads, but first comes car construction with more standard variety parts to get it going.

 

Frenchtown, 'blipping' the throttle doesn't do any good when cranking an engine with S. U. carbs. They don't have an accelerator pump.

 

Thanks X-cpe. It was an instinctual habit from messing with Holleys and Autolites and as I was doing it I realized it was futile. The biggest problem on that day was there was no damping oil in the slides and also the slides were sticking. Add that to the fact that those carbs are undersized for such a big motor when it fired up the slides slammed open and stayed there, thereby losing the signal at the main jet and hence, leaning out / stalling out. After I realized the error of my ways you'll notice I started pulling the slides down and it ran acceptably well, as long as I didn't goose the throttle again and get them to stick open.

I have a question for you and everybody else that is familiar with these carbs:
Are the bonnets supposed to have a gasket around their bottom where they seal off against the main bodies? These didn't so I cut my own. But since then I've looked at a parts breakdown and can't see any gasket there. If no gasket then won't some of the signal to the slides "leak" out?
Thanks for your help.

 

Fabber,
Please start a build thread on the modified so we can follow your build. Good luck with your project.
My friends have a two-piece front cover to change cam timing on their Comp altered.

 

When the time comes, I fully intend to start a thread. At this point, I'm still in the parts gathering stages. Life currently has a few other big projects planned for me before the modified project can be started on. Things like turning my 40 acres in to a residential subdivision, remodeling and selling the house I'm in and finally building the house on top of my 30 x 40 shop. So, building the modified is 3 or 4 years down the road, but I'm getting some of the important pieces added to my inventory for the time when it reaches the top of my priority list.

 

For timing access, I was thinking more along the lines of a big (3.5 inches or so) threaded plug with an o-ring seal rather than a two piece cover. Could also be a plate with an o-ring seal and 4 or 6 retaining bolts. What does their 2 piece cover look like?

 

Its been a while since I looked at it, but essentially it was a CNC'd piece with a front cover over the (Jessel belt driven) cam sprocket and the side walls fastened to the crank snout.

 

years ago I was a UPS mechanic & maintained aprox 35 Ford 240 & 300 engines in delivery trucks. They were excellent & would usually go 200,000 to 250,000 miles. I eliminated timing gear failures by using aluminum cam gears & steel crank gears. I realize helical gears will put a longitudinal thrust on the cam. Are they stronger or weaker than straight cut gears? Also usually after high miles #1 cyl wall would have more taper wear than the others. Why? Maybe coolant circulation not the best. Greg

 

Straight cut gears are stronger than helical cut years. Straight cut gears are noisier then helical cut gears

Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Don't know if the original poster came up with a solution, but for what its worth Boston Gear makes stock gears that could be used with some remachining, given the right set of gears. You need to know the centers of the 2 gears (pitch diameters) and the pressure angle of the teeth. Something a well-versed machinist or mechanicalengineer could determine. I haven't done this for years so would be hesitant myself, but surely there is one on the board that could make a recommendation.

 

Send me a stock set, used is ok and I can point you out what you need and options..