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Do they even make such a part????

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Curly, May 9, 2008.

  1. What I need is a tierod end that has a tapered hole instead of a stud.


    I found a steering arm for my 525 Saginaw box with the right drop to it. The problem is it was made for a centerlink system so it has the typical tapered male stud instead of a tapered hole. I need to connect it over to a tapered hole on my passenger side spindle arm for cross steering.

    Here is a modified photo of what I need....

    Attached Files:

  2. PumpGasRatVette
    Joined: Apr 5, 2008
    Posts: 114


    YIKES!...never seen one. Good luck.
  3. Same here.....if I have to I may just cut up a draglink and between a bridgeport and a 4 jaw chuck in a lathe and a carbide threading tool I make my own.

    But before I do all that I want to make sure it does not already exist!
  4. If I picture what your saying right, The Pitman arm has a stud that is not part of the actual arm. The ones I've seen before have a Ball, (F-100-57-59 Ford Car) the arm is drilled and the ball is pressed in and peened as in rivitted to the arm. I've ground the Peened end off and pressed the Ball end out. Then just use a tapered ream to change over to a standard tie rod end.
    The Wizzard

  5. mustangsix
    Joined: Mar 7, 2005
    Posts: 1,297


    I'm guessing you have something like this:

    The cut-off end of the appropriate draglink might be the way to go.
  6. Shifty Shifterton
    Joined: Oct 1, 2006
    Posts: 4,964

    Shifty Shifterton

    4X4 guys heat and bend pitmans all the time without issue, and those pitmans see 44" mudder stress. I'd find one with the right end and then make it have the right drop.

    Good luck.
  7. If your Pitman arm is this style, just build your cross steer link with a Tapered Eye on the Pitman end and correct Tie Rod on the other. No big deal.
    The Wizzard
  8. True, only drawback being that only one end will be adjustable, but the only time it would need adjustment would be to center the steering wheel.
  9. 37 BILL
    Joined: May 31, 2006
    Posts: 127

    37 BILL
    from Bristol CT

    Speedway motors has one that has a hole and an end...for use on the right hand side of cross steer when you dont have forged steering arms.......part number 910-02999
  10. No pressed and peened ball...although I also have one of those handy and thought about popping the ball out and reaming the hole. The one I have is just like the one pictured above, it has a tapered stud and rubber boot and a castle nut.

    The speedway part is where I swiped the pic from and then I modified it for what I was looking for. The Speedway part is Left Hand threads and I need RH.

  11. That is exactly what I'm trying to do except making the tapered eye threaded RH and the Tierod a standard old Ford 11/16 LH.
  12. brandon
    Joined: Jul 19, 2002
    Posts: 6,331


    how about tapering a solid rod end the ones used for ladderbars where they mount to the housing..... brandon:D
  13. Kevin Lee
    Joined: Nov 12, 2001
    Posts: 7,433

    Kevin Lee
    Super Moderator
    Staff Member

    Totally doable with a credit card and a hack saw. Pete & Jakes (sure others do as well) sells a long tie rod end which has a tapered hole beteen the threaded bit and the tie rod bit. It's a fix for someone who wants cross steer but has had the extra tapered hole cut from their spindle.

    Just buy it and cut the tie rod part off.
  14. 325w
    Joined: Feb 18, 2008
    Posts: 5,483


    I have a tapered hole I can send you off an old spindle arm.
  15. striper
    Joined: Mar 22, 2005
    Posts: 4,498


    My shed is full of tapered holes. I just can't find the steel bit that goes around them ;)
  16. I do this often. Get an 11/16 non coated socket head bolt. I use grade 5. If you don't have a milling machine use a bench grinder and grind the head to fit the O.D. of a tapered eye. I generally make them out of D.O.M. tubing but a cut off steering arm eye will work. Make a good deep weld prep and have it Tig welded to the Bolt head. You now have the end you need.
    If your welding skills are marginal this is a GOOD place to spend a few bucks and have it done by a REAL welder. This is not difficult to do but important to do right.
    The Wizzard
  17. Dyce
    Joined: Sep 12, 2006
    Posts: 1,902


    Late model ford pickups had a drag link with a hole in the center part of it for the left tierod. May be able to cut it and thread it. There are differences in size and pitch of the taper too. Go to an alignment shop that does front end work and show them what you need. They see a lot of cars in a day and may have some ideas(and a good iron bin full of junk)
  18. projim64
    Joined: Sep 10, 2007
    Posts: 164


    I was looking for the same thing as you and looked at the speedway part you modified as an option. The only problem is that on my pitman arm the stud is fixed and does not move or articulate ( I think that is the word I am looking for) If I were to bolt the Speedway end on to it it would be fixed in a horizontal plane and would not alow for the angle down to my steering arms. Please inform us if you find something. Thanks,Jim in Pa.
  19. JohnEvans
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,883

    from Phoenix AZ

    Projim: I think the word you want is "osolate" . The fixed non-osolating stud won't work on a cross steer setup ,because the wheel end is moving in a vertical plane . The stud has to swivel and rock side to side in order not to bind. Once bought a car that the drag link ends only swiveled ,made for some interesting steering wheel movements when hitting a bump etc.
  20. projim64
    Joined: Sep 10, 2007
    Posts: 164


    I fixed the problem by changing out the pitman am to one with a tapered hole and used a tierod end on the end of the drag link.
  21. Jeep double tie rod end.


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