I Dont really want to put a pannard rod on show on this so I wondered if there is any reason why I cant put a diagonal between one rear bone mount and the opposite side front tube axle mount its on this if a pic helps http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q286/296moon/linclon186.jpg
Just be sure to use the expensive heim joints for large angular movement. Panhards are proven to work and keep the heims happy moving in one plane.
No, that WILL NOT do what a panhard rod will do. I highly recommend a panhard rod. You think about where the stresses are put.. In my opinion this is not a good idea..
If that car is being built to run on and off the trailer at a show, fine. If you want to make a pass, (as I think you will) a panard bar will help to keep the car in your lane. As it is now, I would not run in the other lane with you.
Very interesting idea... I have used "dead perches" many times in the past.. but only on Circle Track Cars... you know like old Modifieds & Hardtops. I have seen one on a T roadster, never could talk to the owner about how it felt on the street. I wonder....
Dont worry Don Iam not going to run it without something to locate it properly, I have heard of a deadperch before, just not sure what it is? would it be useing only one shackle on the leaf spring?
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=218714 Have a look here. Search will give you more
I ran a dead perch for a number of years on the street. They do push the axle into a little more bind than a panhard, but there is no way i would run one on a spring with that much arch and potential travel especially when coming off a wheelie. Diagonal locater's are used on 4 links in the rear in drag racing, but they have a tendency to fail on the street due to the extra stresses due to articulation.
The triangulated bar to radius rod mount has limited effect as its triangulation angle is very small, movement almost mimics radius rod movement. Looking at the picture of the Gasser Falcon my approach would be a small Watts linkage installed behind the front crossmember and pivoting at the central spring mount. This keeps your lateral locating bar parallel to the axle and functional thru all range of travel. Before you go any further check the spring stretch on your front spring. It looks to have a high crown spring and if you intend to wheelie this car alot the compressing spring on landing may produce a shear effect on the perches. If the compression length of the spring is longer than the spacing between the perch pins the spring bottoms out on the perches. The compressed length of the main leaf should be a minimum of 1/4" away from bottoming out. It simple to check remove the spring, carefully undo the stack then compress and measure the extended end to end distance of the flattened main leaf. Next measure the distance between the perch pin bodies and compare, If the perch body distance is longer OK, if the spring distance is longer its a potential for a problem.
Thanks for that Dick and all replys, I had thought about a watts linkage but hadent thought of mounting it like that, I have checked the main leaf and its close but it does clear the perches, thanks
kennkat (and anyone else for that matter), Roundy round is where the dead perch came from. It eventually got adapted for street use. They do work better in a situation where you are only turning on one direction and doing more pivoting than steering. If you run your panhard bar behind the axle it will not be real noticable especially with a car that has front sheet metal and if you paint it black so that it will blend in. Another option would be a wats link, it would be real visable but it would look (and is) a little more high tech.
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