Anyone seen the Deuce Steel frame??? If not check out this link... http://www.deucesteel.com/DS-frame.html The frame is built to lower the body...same thing we all try to do but without having to do the modifications. The wheelbase is stretched 3" but works on the original frame length from what I understand. I like the smoothly contoured lines, but don't want to stray too much from a traditional hi-boy look. Just curious what the consensus is on these things. I've done some basic work on cars I've owned, but never built one from scratch. My plan is to build a kit (brookville) for my first one. Mercury Charlie usually works on all my rides, but this time I want to learn to do it myself. I don't know how to do much in the way of fabrication and metal working...I'm trying to keep the first one as SIMPLE as possible. I've got the Cad 331 from my 53 that'll be going in this one...I'll be posting pics as it happens. I'd appreciate your opinions on these frames...or if I'd be better off sticking to a SoCal frame or something and modifying it (pie-cut w/ kick up like Tuck and Bob did in MFS vol.2)...again, not very confident with a torch. Thanks in advance, Junkie
Be sure to check out the Deuce frames that "Kiwi Konnection" Squeak Bell offers, I bought one and am super pleased. Under 2 thousand too. He is in Bakersfield. Give him a call.
It is a nice frame. That mod has been done in the past. Credit needs to go to Dave Iverson that brought it to market, the design was sketched on a napkin in front of my boss a few years back by Dave. (Sorry TucknBob) In your case, it sounds like you WANT to do some work of your own? Get the Wescotts dimensions off the web, buy some rails and fab the shit up youself. A frame jig can be as complex or simple as you like. Ours is a large frame on wheels that we brace and level shit off of. My Touring frame was tacked on this and finish welded loose, it is within a 1/16th or less in every direction. This isnt rocket science, guys were doing it in dirt floored garages before we were born!
I might be able to help sometime. I've got an original frame that I use for measurements. I can give you any measurement you would ask for. I like the American Stamping rails and the Chassis Engr. center crossmember. I don't like the extended frames. The cars don't look right to me.
I'll do that, thanks for the heads up. Do you have any pics of yours all finished up??? Any luck ever finding the speed parts for a 49-62 Cad motor? I'm about to start that search myself...other than a 3-deuce setup the only other idea I've had is "making" an old supercharger fit Let me know if you have any ideas or come across a source that has more than you need. I've got 2 331s that need to be styled and dialed... I'd also love to find a standard transmission for one of them. I've got a 700R4 that I got from RPM that's cut to fit, that's what I'll probably use for this roadster... Thanks for the advice and good luck to you, Junkie
Tman, thanks for the encouragement, I appreciate it...these things are so damn expensive I get nervous to start cutting on them myself, but if you never try you'll never learn. Andy, I might take you up on that, thanks for the offer. I'll let you know what I end up doing. This is going to be the winter project...building this car...so I'd love to have it finished up by roadster season in Austin, TX which won't be long. I once heard someone speak of a thing called "winter", but I don't have a clue what that is....J/K Thanks everyone, any other comments? -Junkie
Just a quick suggestion. When making cuts on frame rails I find its best ot use a sawsall when ever possible. when you use a torch the cut has a chance to wander all over the place creating large gaps that need to be filled. If you saw your cuts and try to stay on the + side you can sneak up on the final fit with a file and end up with a beautiful joint to weld. It takes some time to do it this way but in my opinion it makes for a superior final product. Also a torch used incorrectly will destroy the metal ajacent to the cut by getting it too hot and the resulting joint will not be sound. A plasma, when used carefully, will do almost as good a job as a sawsall and not put too much heat into the metal. Just a thought. Frank
Get ya some 32 rails and a model A frt crossmember and build it yourself. You would prolly have to hack and carve on your brand new repop frame from whoever to get it the stance anyway. I'm in the middle of this process as we speak and not ony do I get control of most of the dimensions and little custom nuances, I'm learning shitloads, Improving my metal/welding skills, and I'll have bragging rights when the car is done. Build it from scratch! It's worth it. If ya ever wanna swing by and see how it goes, gimmie a ring. 512.944.0311 David
Thanks David, very kind of you to offer, I'll probably take you up on that. Thanks to everyone else for your thoughts on this, John
It's all JUNK John, just give me the '33 pickup, sell the Caddy, the Clipper, the Hudson, the T, and the rest of your shit and give up on the whole hot rod idea... hahaha jk man, you know i'm down to help ya anyway, lets get the ball rollin here.
Sure Jeremy, actually why don't I just give them all to you...BIATCH! Could you help me get a non-rolling rust bucket off the top front of an 18 Wheeler car hauler? I always appreciate your help dude, we'll get working on this roadster project hopefully by the end of the month...unless you can score me a deal on your buddys A coupe (body).......do it...seriously....do it.
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