Technical Coolant moving too fast through radiator to cool?

Concerning dealing with our special built cars....IMO..


It is waste of time with charts, graphs done by some guy in a lab, that never built a very modified vehicle from parts and pieces of 20 different cars.

My brother is a College Professor and knows absolutely nothing of the real world. I can't
even ask how's the weather...and I'M WRONG .

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I agree, a lot of guys who deal in charts and numbers have no clue about how to apply that knowledge in the real world. But a bunch of guys who are out there doing it, have no clue about what's really happening.

there are a few who combine the two sources of knowledge...they do some neat things.

 

I agree we need some factual pointers to live out hot-rod lives...

but one of the things I also like on hamb, is to read each and every reply on one of those somewhat difficult problems that a member post up.

Does not matter if he is a newbie, young/old, or top builder...at some point the people that reply, will ad a sentence that may not apply to THAT problem, but rings a thought-bell on your own problem. Not much wasted posts in my opinion. I learn stuff here all the time, even this week! and I am no newbie.

I do enjoy having a problem at times, it makes me feel alive in a strange way. Sure, if you get buried with multiple issues one after another, it gets you down,,,,but somebody here will say some few words that guide you/wake up your brain, and you are back on top.

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Very true F&J, Very true.

 

........or those that want/need heat.

 

I'm going out right now for a drive test... I do have enough heat I believe, and a heater. But the main heater motor howls, but the tiny defroster motor is Ok,

 

Here's how it was once explained to me. If you have 10GPM coolest flow rate that drops the temperature 40' through the radiator we can express that as 10x40 or 400 cooling units.
A 10GPM rate and a 50' drop would equal 500?cooling units which is better still.
Now if we have a 20GPM and a 30' drop= 600 cooling units, better yet.
The faster coolant with the lowest temperature drop has extracted heat at a faster rate than the slower coolant rates.
The measure of a radiators effectiveness is on its heat removal rate and not on the temp drop removal rate in simple terms.

 

Yep! we should abolish the education system so we all can live in ignorant bliss

You need to study some of Nicholas Carnot's fairy tales [The Carnot cycle is a theoretical thermodynamic cycle]
Heat is energy [anything over -273 degrees C on the Kelvin scale is energy] This energy has a calory value measured by temp/volume.
With the Carnot cycle ....All temperatures will try to equalise , so what is important is whether the radiator is capable of transfering heat into air at a greater rate than the engine that is generating the heat.

If the coolant is moving "too" fast through the engine, in theory the coolant should be cooler [picking up less heat by volume],
The same amount of energy is still transfered into the coolant , except there is more volume of coolant passing through the engine to achieve this.
When the coolant transfers heat into air, there is more volume of coolant flowing through the radiator to cool [but less energy by volume]
the 2 factors cancel each other out

Edit: Please note, the above scenario only applies to an open system [full flow]
As soon as there is a thermostat added to control coolant speed, it doesn't matter what volume the coolant flows at [with a high volume pump]
The thermostat controls flow at a temperature equilibrium,
If the radiator is too large the engine coolant combined with incoming radiator coolant will be too low temperature, the thermostat will restrict flow below a desired temperature

 

Thank you that makes perfect sense.

 

very good stuff

 

good point!

 

40 years ago I had a 65 chevy truck that would run cool as long as you drove below 50 MPH. Even pulling a trailer on a hot day it stayed cool as long as you drove slow. Get above 50 and it heated up pronto. Changed thermostat to a 160 degree unit. Didn't help. Took the thermostat out didn't help. Installed a washer didn't help. bigger radiator fan shroud five bladed fan didn't help. It even got hot in winter if you went above 50. I flushed the system and just wasn't helping. You could drive above 50 and it heated up and slow down and it would cool down. Then one day I was under the hood and revved up the engine. looked down and seen the bottom radiator hose collapse and suck shut. The hose wasn't old it was a factory molded hose. That's all it needed a bottom hose with a wire in it,. Now If I had installed a larger water pump pulley and a smaller crank pulley My problem might have went away? But it wouldn't have been the correct solution. I would have sworn my heating up problem was the water circulating too quickly.

 

In 1998 Toyota said this about developing a new engine.
" COOLING SYSTEM
– The flow of the engine coolant makes a U-turn in the cylinder block to prevent stagnation,
thereby ensuring uniformity of the cylinder bore wall temperature between the cylinders. The entire coolant mass flows up from the cylinder block to the front of the cylinder head and then front to the rear (Fig. 15). This increases the flow velocity in the cylinder head, which helps decrease the combustion chamber wall temperature."

http://www.spyderchat.com/1zzfe.pdf


Now, I can imagine that stuffing water faster thru an engine >>might<< actually mess up flow patterns in critical areas. Some engines had (and needed) water distribution tubes added because the raw casting alone did it wrong.

http://cdn3.volusion.com/pfwnp.wsjdr/v/vspfiles/photos/310-037_F-3T.jpg?1467116574

http://www.marinepartssource.com/pr...2=0&mcat3=0&Category=Water+Distribution+Tubes