Seat and open pressure too high for flat tappet cam as per comp cams. Looking at heads that have seat pressure of 115 and open pressure of 305. Will removing dual spring damper reduce pressure enough to help so I Dont wipe out valve lobes during cam break-in?
Do you still have the stock springs? Or remove the inner if it's a true spring and check pressure. All you need is a drill press an old valve, bathroom scales, and a ruler.
Now a days, you need special break in springs, have to set the heads up twice - second time with springs that match the cam or you'll not be able to satisfy your end of the warranty agreement. Old days you just set the stuff up and ran a standard break in procedure and it worked
During BREAK-IN...yes, no problem. But put it all back to the original designed spring after that first 30 to 45 minutes. Also, do not rev past the break-in rpm as the overall spring package is not there to do it's job properly. Change the oil and put the valve spring package back together before driving down the driveway. On the other hand, if the complete spring package has too high a pressure for that cam/lifter combination, you'll end up killing the cam eventually anyway...so get the correct recommended spring package for that cam. You can still help the break-in procedure by running less pressure. Mike
I've never wiped a cam using the spring I was going to use even on a flat tappet cast cam mandated for our racing in an engine seeing 7200 on the straight always. Removing the dampner spring changes pressure very little. An old Motors Manual shows Chev FI engines with under #100 psi seated. I alway compress every spring in a vice to complete collapse before installing. Good luck.
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