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Projects COE build thread - "Git r' done"

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by kscarguy, Feb 14, 2013.

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  1. kscarguy
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 1,571

    kscarguy
    Member

    WEBBING QUESTION - I want to put some kind of material between the frame and bed to lift the bed and boxes 1/4" and act as webbing. I need a webbing anyway and the 1/4" lift will fix a running board to box bottom alignment issue.

    I was thinking of using 1/4" thick rubber.

    Is there a better material choice than rubber that is 1/4" thick? How do I hold it in place so it does not shift location? Is wood a better option? Any thoughts?
     
  2. I have a conveyor belt service company near where I live and they have a rack of remnants and drops for sale cheap. I can usually get several feet of nearly any composition and thickness I need for stuff like this for a few bucks. It's water proof, sticky or self lubricating and can be cut to what ever dimension you need. This shop has a slitter so if you need specific width belts of something they can be convinced to slice down wide material to your desired width.
     
  3. kscarguy
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 1,571

    kscarguy
    Member

    [​IMG]

    I like this handle. It came from the web Site MT Apache recommended. It would look neat on the storage box.
     
  4. dwaynerz
    Joined: Nov 16, 2006
    Posts: 235

    dwaynerz
    Member

    Is there a better material choice than rubber that is 1/4" thick? How do I hold it in place so it does not shift location? Is wood a better option? Any thoughts?

    not sure if better or not, but free anyway. just be on the lookout for tractor trailer mudflaps. usually made of rubber, or very hard plastic, and about the thickness you need. shouldnt be too hard to find on the side of the road.<!-- / message -->
     
  5. kscarguy
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 1,571

    kscarguy
    Member

    I hear there is a large supply of mudflaps at truckstops too...right out in the parking lot. (ha)

    I found out that rubber is not a good idea, it expands and contracts too much. Also, the glue used with it will soften up with heat.
     
  6. Thresher belt would work well,
    probably about the same as the conveyor belt material.
     
  7. Yep, and there's got to be an industrial belt service house somewhere in St. Louis.
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2013
  8. kscarguy
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 1,571

    kscarguy
    Member

    Today was all about money...


    I got a price on conveyor belting - $35 per each 12' length. I wonder if i need it all the way down the frame rail?


    I got the "new" price on water jet cutting my brackets...yikes! It jumped from $18 to $33 a bracket. Mostly because of the thicker material on the hinge arms. Speeding up the cut, will drop them back down to $24, but still, ouch.


    I bought all the steel DOM tubing I need for the hinges, a big chunk of solid 1-5/8 for machining spacers and enough 1x3 tube to mount the boxes, etc. That was a cheap $37. Thanks, Shapiro Metals in St Louis!


    Shapiro also had a 3/8" S.S. plate just the right size to make my hinges, but it was $2.75 per pound and 60 pound of weight. Steel is 75 cents a pound, so I walked away from the stainless.


    I am too far into this crazy hinge design to stop now, but I need to find a way to cut the overall cost to build it. The waterjet cutting of all the brackets is the biggest expense. Just cutting all my brackets could cost more than $300. If I could reduce the thickness, it would reduce the cutting cost greatly.

    I might check to see if plazma cutting is cheaper.
     
  9. Costs money to have fun! :D

    Like your thread title, Git r' done!

    When the doors work awesome, you won't think of the cash outlay.
     
  10. kscarguy
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 1,571

    kscarguy
    Member

    You're right...Git r' done.
     
  11. 50 chevy matt
    Joined: Nov 27, 2012
    Posts: 129

    50 chevy matt
    Member
    from UK

    famous last words lol

    coming on nicely i see and waiting for the final result :D
     
  12. kscarguy
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 1,571

    kscarguy
    Member

    A cheaper re-design.


    The rectangles are 1"x 1/2" bar stock, drilled and tapped, then welded to the box wall. Plate is bolted to these bars. This eliminates the need for carriage bolts through the box wall. The bars move the main plate away from the box side so the lower hinge bolt head is free to slide in slot for adjustment. This eliminates four extra plates and the cost to cut them.

    [​IMG]
     
  13. pug man
    Joined: Apr 9, 2007
    Posts: 1,010

    pug man
    Member
    from louisiana

    Wow you sure are doing a lot of thought process on all of this. I sure like all the drawings you are showing us and I might have to steal a few ideas from you when I get to that point.... Thanks......
     
  14. kscarguy
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 1,571

    kscarguy
    Member

    Steal away...Heck, I stole the idea from the bus guys.

    As for the thought process...I think I am near the part of my project plan where it says, "And then a miracle occurs."
     
  15. Wow, that price on belt scraps is way more than I had in mind when I recommended it. If you have access to more than one shop I'd call and see if they have a "drop" bin you can scrounge. That's basically what I was thinking and have used before.
    Alternatively, if you have a recycle yard that handles Ag or Industrial equipment you could find used stuff, eventually.
     
  16. pug man
    Joined: Apr 9, 2007
    Posts: 1,010

    pug man
    Member
    from louisiana

    Go to a Tractor Supply store and check out their belts for Hay Bailers. They are made pretty tuff and look like they may just work for you...
    Waiting on that miracle now....hahaha
     
  17. kscarguy
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 1,571

    kscarguy
    Member

    Quick fabrication question...how do I drill two holes straight a round pipe, one at each end, but keep them parrallel with each other?
     
  18. pug man
    Joined: Apr 9, 2007
    Posts: 1,010

    pug man
    Member
    from louisiana

    Maybe try using a plumb bob. You know that thing that hangs from a string. Just a suggestion and I'm sure somebody else can come up with another one.
     
  19. dwaynerz
    Joined: Nov 16, 2006
    Posts: 235

    dwaynerz
    Member

    drill press mounted vice? that would be my suggestion for drilling holes in round pipe. or a couple of c clamps or 3 to hold it steady.
     
  20. Two "Vee" blocks, a plumber's center finder, a torpedo level and center punch. All available at your local welding/ tradesman tool store.
     
  21. dirt t
    Joined: Mar 20, 2007
    Posts: 4,639

    dirt t
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Kingman,AZ
    1. HAMB Old Farts' Club

    Let's say your tub is 1' DIA. Tack weld some 1" angle iron on each side of your tube.
    Measure the distance between mark center drill holes then remove angle irons clean tacks and your done.
     
  22. kscarguy
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 1,571

    kscarguy
    Member

    You guys have convinced me that I need keep the economy going, so my project moves forward.

    I got a revised estimate to cut all my brackets of $315. I thought that was expensive, until I looked at Lambo hinge kit on ePay and they are over $1000. I win, my hinges are bigger!

    I bought all my steel plate today. It is a shame that I had to buy 120 pounds of steel to use less than 40 pounds of it. The parts do not "nest" very well (fit together tightly) when laid out on the steel plate so I will waste a lot of steel cutting everything out.

    This morning I started to wonder if I can shink design this down and use it on my glove box door?...forget that! (grin)


    Almost forgot to mention - I stopped by to see my engine builder. He gave me a set of valve springs off a 3L ford motor. Smaller diameter and taller than a SBC spring. they should work good on the bed connection (see posting 118 for pic).
     
  23. kscarguy
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 1,571

    kscarguy
    Member

    OK, here is another boring data filled post


    I finally figured out how to measure perimeters and areas on my CAD program. I used the area data to rough calculate the weight of all my hinge parts.


    Each hinge arm is 3 lbs.
    Each of the four hinge assemblies is 13.7 lbs.
    Each storage box has 32-35 lbs of total hinge steel including the center bar and struts.

    I bought too much plate steel, so I will have "some" leftover metal to use elsewhere.


    (def. "Some" - way too dang much to be considered scrap or to hide from the wife)
     
  24. kscarguy
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 1,571

    kscarguy
    Member

    work has begun...(ok, I cleaned the garage), But that is a a big job as the COE was really burried. I am waiting for my hinge brackets to be cut. They might be done tomorrow.

    Here are some pictures of the bed and below...

    [​IMG]

    Hydraulic pump in the back.

    [​IMG]

    Tough to see, but the hydraulic sissor lift in the center, behind engine. Yes, that is John Deere Green.



    [​IMG]

    Engine up front. [​IMG]

    Room to work...sort of. Small garage, big truck.

    [​IMG]

    Lots of surface rust and dirt to deal with. Setting for so long with bare steel was really hard on it.
     
  25. fordsbyjay
    Joined: Nov 4, 2009
    Posts: 690

    fordsbyjay
    Member
    from Lafayette

  26. KustomCars
    Joined: Jul 31, 2011
    Posts: 3,457

    KustomCars
    Member
    from Minnesota

  27. kscarguy
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 1,571

    kscarguy
    Member

    I am playing with ideas for extending the box and making the transistion to the rear tires feel less abrupt...

    [​IMG]

    It would have a curved raised edge to match the front fender...
    [​IMG]

    It might be easiest to make it from fiberglass...
    [​IMG]
     
  28. hdman6465
    Joined: Jul 5, 2009
    Posts: 652

    hdman6465
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    here are some pics of my chev coe. I am sending them to you so you can see what pickup fenders can be modified to look like you want. Your truck looks sweet.
     

    Attached Files:

  29. kscarguy
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 1,571

    kscarguy
    Member

    A BIG word of thanks to Water Jet Tech in St Louis. Jay and his crew made this job easy and I really look forward to working with them again. I don't say this too often, so I mean it when I say, that I highly recommend them.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Here is a mockup of an end assembly. A 1" DOM ppe runs between the assemblies. It looks like I am in for a lot of sanding before I weld them up.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2013
  30. kscarguy
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 1,571

    kscarguy
    Member

    Just watched a cool video on how to remove millscale from Hot Rolled Steel. Concrete cleaning acid, soak for 15 minutes, and then rinse with water.

    The scale practically washes off!

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LsEQP3YjEcg
     
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