i have had the same starter on my 29 chevy with a 375 hp 327 for 15 yrs it died on me.. now i have put 4 starters on the car in the last 6 mo and every one has broken the nose on the starter any idea why. they are mounted the same way with the brace to the block.
This isn't going to help you now but I've been gave the advice that if you had a good starter you replaced to not turn it in as a core. In this case you could have swapped out the nose.
As in making sure you have the correct space between the drive gear and the ring gear. I am assuming that you have the correct Chevy starter bolts and not generic bolts. I broke one a while back because it had unrelated engine issues. In short when the engine won't turn but the starter has the power something is going to break. It didn't have the bracket on it that it does now though.
the factory starter for a 69 corvette 350 hp 350 used a cast iron front nose it has an offset bolt psterrn
Did you use the brace at the rear of the starter? I see so many cars were some were along the line they never put this back on.
he answered your question in the first post Something funny is going on...I wonder if there's something wrong with the ignition system? Usually when a Chevy starter quits working, it's something to do with the brushes, or the drive, or bushings, or the solenoid. They don't often burn up. And the nose doesn't break off, either.
The only nose cone I have broken was on a BBC in a stock car, I hit it with starter fluid to wake it up after the winter, it kicked back and shattered the nose cone. You may have the wrong nose cone and it may be interfering somewhere, my best guess. I save any starter that comes with an engine and keep them paired up. A local shop does my auto electrics, I get my core back.
i use a 1/8" welding rod to set the space. knock the flux off and sand clean. put it between the flex plate/flywheel teeth and the starter shaft, should be a snug slide fit. to loosed add shims on both bolts, to tighten add shims to outer bolt only. good luck.
Yes, but you could have swapped the snout to the new one, and then turned in the old one with the new snout as a core. It sounds like all the newer rebuilt starters have junk cores or snouts.
Very important to use the correct style bolts and that they be in good condition. If not, the starter can move around (even with a brace), when engaged and will eventually break things.
If you have a High Compression engine...with good fuel of course, make sure ignition is separate from crank circuit. Crank it...then light it.. u be surprised how much better it will crank.
Plus is looks cool when you fire one up that way Only nose cone I ever broke was on a BBC, flex plate had bad spots on it, so I’d try to bump a bit and catch good teeth. Guess I hit it at the wrong time.
Interesting posts.....Those starters are generally bullet-proof if installed correctly. I have been running a 327/375 (Rochester FI) motor in my '40 coupe for over 30 years........the starter has never had issues. Ditto for a 327/365 motor, and a 302 Z-28 T/A race motor.......lots of years and "starts' on all of the without issues. Every once in a while I will disassemble them and clean them up a bit, but nothing else. Years ago I had a solenoid fail, but that's a simple fix.
looking at the last 3 starters that the nose broke on all were a light colored casting the last one is a dark casting so far it has not broke i am thinking poor china nose casting on the other 3
This is not a common problem. If there is a batch of bad nosecones out there the odds that you would get four in a row from the same batch are probably about the same as hitting Lotto. The reasons that I've heard of breaking them are- Timing way off when cranking. Starter/ring gear clearance. Engine just won't turn, hydrolocked, seized, ect. If the current starter survives then you did something to accidently fix the problem.
........Are you sure that the nose cone isn't touching the bell housing, even a little bit? It took me 3 different GM part number starters to clear my aftermarket blow shield/ bell housing.
Check the clearance at the teeth. Better check the flex plate, I had one break when I was a teen, Flex plate was cracked at a mounting bolt and the plate was not running true when turning over the engine.
IF its a manual trans with the 11inch clutch and 168 tooth flywheel I think its supposed to use the cast iron nose cone starter mentioned above in post #7.
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