Technical Chevy 327 tuning help

hi
Hopefully somebody could help me out with this build.
Going in a Model A Coupe

Is it worth spending the time/money for a street car

Engine is a standard 67 327 210hp(told was a runner)
Has 75cc heads

Thoughts are,
Bored +0.30
Aluminium 64cc heads
Suitable camshaft (not too sure which)
3x2 Holley 94’s

Has a TH400

All thoughts are most appreciated

 

I find it real easy to spend other peoples' money, but the time is on you, the 327 will do anything a 350 will do in your application, the choice of transmission, (can't go wrong with a turbo 400), rearend and gear ratio should be considered in the plan when choosing engine components too, either engine could be a dog with mismatched parts.
If all the 327's major components are in place there's no reason this rebuild would cost much more (if any) than an equivalent 350 rebuild.

 

Thanks for the reply.
9” rear with 3.25 gears
31” tyres

I wasn’t too fussed about spending the money, but didn’t know if it was actually worth it or just leave it at the stated 210hp.
Obviously power will have been lost over the years

 

Tyres UK, got it.
You may want to update your profile page with your location, some here find it difficult helping people not knowing locale.

Oh yeh, I forgot to say the cam choice (could be) the one component requiring the most consideration. Anybody that knows me knows I'm a proponent of the L79 327/350 hp engine, which was an 11 to 1 compression ratio engine, about a point more c/r than most consider for a street engine.
Your 327 is capable of achieving 350 HP with 10/1 c/r but head chamber volume and camshaft choice will need to be juggled to achieve it.
By the way, if wanting to look period correct matters and you are set on aluminum heads check out the ones offered by Trick Flow, they have the "camel hump" cast into the front just like original SBC heads and can be painted engine color to match. They offer them in at least two different chamber volumes too.

https://www.google.com/search?q=tri...7-LcAhWO14MKHTZvCS0Q_AUIEygD&biw=1280&bih=752

Good article here:
https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/engine/fuelie-cylinder-heads/

 

210hp is quite a lot in a 2000# car. If the engine runs fine and doesn't need a rebuild, you could use it as is plus add a nice intake and exhaust headers and it will haul ass. 3.25:1 is fairly tall, I wouldn't go too radical with a cam with that rear end. Trans type also makes a difference. With an auto trans a higher stall convertor can help, but keep in mind how you're going to use the car. With that rear end and tire size you're gonna run about 2500 rpm's at 70. You don't want the stall speed approaching that rpm or the trans will run hot on the hwy. As Denny mentioned, you really need to consider the whole package, engine & trans & rear end.

 

With that gear and tire I would be looking to make low/midrange power instead of higher Rpms. The cam choice is going to really important. And since it’s not my money I’d look at some hyd. Rollers. Even when it is my money I used hyd rollers for street now.

 

That was my thinking with sticking with the standard motor. My only thought for the rebuild is at least I know the state of the motor when it goes back in. Only want to install it once and want it right the first time.
I’ve got no problem in building the engine, my concern was the opinion on parts to use

Going with SS Lakester headers
Holley 3x2 on vintage speed intake on an Edelbrock 4bbl intake

 

I am running 31" tires and a 3:55 gear with a four speed. Thinking I would like to have 3:70 gears.
327 tri-power, 350hp cam. D

 

Been doing a bit of reading on here and through google searches and the comp cam XE268H seems a good option.
Not interested in top end power or racing so really interested in low/mid grunt out the motor.

 

Good to know. Nothing is built up with motor/trans/gears as I’m just trying to design it all before I go ahead and buy parts.

 

I’ve seen these for sale and didn’t know if they would be a good upgrade over my originals

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/152942189008

 

All 327s are precious and should be treated as such. I’m with Denny and like the L-79 route. Even a stock 210 horse should run pretty good.


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Might be worth running it as it is at the moment and see how it runs.
Might not need anything doing to it after all.

 

I like your choice of camshaft. If it was me I'd consider using a 4 barrel carburetor or one that was made for 3x2's to start with.
Pete

 

I want to stick with the 3x2’s so will look for a suitable cam

 

Yeh, and when someone asks what it is and how much hp does it make, just tell them it's a 210 hp 350 (under your breath) they won't know the difference or care after that.
Tell them it's a 327 and you'll make a new friend, really, in my world that's half of it, being able to say it's a 327, and I also have a 427 (small block), that gets the "Bambi in the headlights" look.

 

Please do not put these on a 327. Check out the Trick Flow heads that DD mentioned. D

 

Is there a problem with using these heads?????

By the time the motor is painted you wouldn’t really know they were ally

 

I agree with Dennis D. With 31" tyres, 3:7 would be better. Let the engine do something.

A lugging engine with too tall gears does not save fuel and is not fun to drive. They will dull off any horsepower you think you have. Often people blame the engine, when they should look at the diff gears. My 2 cents.

 

BTW. 3 x 2's on an adaptor to a manifold is not really a power maker either. I guess this is a looks thing.

 

Oh yes you will and so will everybody else.

This is how it will look, ideally painted Chevrolet Orange.

Here:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c1-and-c2-corvettes/4056324-new-vintage-trick-flow-heads-2.html

Now, if this sort of thing is not important then my work is done.

 

The engine came with them. Did consider putting them on a 3x2 intake but it’s then more expenditure.
This motor is definitely more for looks than power

 

Engine will either be painted black or body colour(pastel green).
With ally rocker covers,oil pan,polished water pump and stainless lakester headers

 

Denny, that is a very interesting observation. Even though I’m using a 350, (GM crate motor out of my O/T Suburban) my ears perk up and the hair on the back of my neck stands up when I hear 327 from someone. I love your outlook on this. Those 3 numbers are magic in our wonderful world of the greatest V-8 ever made. And you are right about friends in our world!


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Might consider a turbo 350 in place of the turbo 400, a little smaller and in an A every bit helps. With a 327 a 400 is overkill in my opinion.

 

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Back in the haze of my memory from working at a Chevy dealer in the mid to late 60's, the part number for a replacement cam for 283's and 327's was the same up to 327/300 hp, trucks included. (Maybe someone with access to an old book could check that.) The difference was in cylinder heads, carburetion and exhaust. Cars had flat top pistons, trucks were dished.

 

Went with a 400 as that’s what was available at the time. Gearbox’s don’t come up for sale that often in the UK

 

That is a decent cam, 1800-5500 range or so. I have something similar in a Lunati and I like it. My CR is close to 10:1 and I run a 4-speed. Look at your RPMs at 30 and 40 mph, or convert to metric.... and what someone else mentioned, you don't want the engine to lug. Which is tough on bearings. With my 3.56 rear, it lugged badly around town at 1000-1200 RPMs. I went with a 3.89 rear and at 30 I turn 1500 RPMs, 40 is even better. I ran your numbers at 30 and you'd be at 1085 RPMs, you need to pick that up a bit. Even with a 3.89 rear you'll be up at only 1300 with the 31" tire.