Yesterday's project was weld up a hundred holes in the firewall. There were heater holes, wiring holes, and two sets of swing pedal mounts. This still needs a viscous beating to get it even close to straight.
I believe that sealer coats were used back in the day. Is that stuff still available? Or is it too toxic and the EPA phased it out? My grandpa was a master leader. He ended up going mad in his senior years and refused to teach me the trade. He said that he loved me to much to allow me to poison myself. I was pissed at him then, and totally respect his dicision now.... Sent from my XT1585 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Beat on the firewall today. And welded in the floor Tommy and I made. Is there a good weld thru primer? The stuff I have builds porosity like crazy. Garbage.
How about grind it back to metal and use body panel adhesive, suppose to be as strong as a weld, wouldn't allow moisture into the seam, and no heat warp. Im sure someone will chime in if its a bad idea.
Ugg glue no way. Not to be rude but it has lasted 80+ years now I am sure it will be fine. Just makes it hard to weld nicely.
Matt I've been using this one I don't know how she compares. It's the only brand I've used so far. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Nice work Matt! I don't know about weld thru paints. Can't help you there. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Most all weld thru primers will cause some porosity. I have been applying primer before on both surfaces, then clamping it all together and scratching with an awl or using a drill bit to carefully spin the actual spot weld hole area so that it is bare metal ONLY where I'm welding. Leaves a clean area to weld and the surrounding areas are still sealed up. Regardless if it is weld-thru you're still introducing debris/paint/contaminants into the weld puddle and you will get the popping and pitting to a point.
It seems to be melting off the backside of the top panel and running into the weld pool. I don't use it on original ford sheet metal, doesn't rust much even a mile from the ocean. New stuff on the other hand flash rusts in seconds.
Matt, I use Pro-Form PF534 Weld Thru Zinc Coating. I've found it to be the least reactive. One thin coat will do, some people spray it on too thick and that just builds in problems. When all clamped together, dig into the hole with a scratch awl or sharp file and rough it up. It shouldn't cause any porosity at all.
Had to add some material to the front body blocks to get the doors to line up. I hate wood, it would be much nicer to just weld something to this rather than screw around with sanding and glue.....
I on the other hand am crazy about the stuff. But I've finally come to my senses about fooling with it in my car. Time for steel! Which is really just an excuse to drill more speed holes. You keep it up cabinet maker. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Just found this build and read the entire thread. Great looking truck and I love your style of building. Use what you got, make the rest. I try to follow the same, waiting on parts in the mail pisses me off. You've inspired me to go take a third look at an old Chevy truck ( about 1936) that I found last fall,not a lot there, but maybe enough. I use UPOL weld thru primer when I have to use it. I follow the method matt@eastwood described, prime with good etch primer, awl thru the plug weld hole to mark my plugs, pull the panel and wire wheel the plug weld, reinstall he panel and weld, keeps the weld clean, and I trust the good primer more than rattle can. Nothing wrong with carefully applied seam sealer afterwards, your call. Keep the updates coming, all these little details at the end make it your own.
Thanks guys. One of these days I may actually find a job then things might slow down a bit, but on the other hand I would have money for some small stuff I am still missing.
Not bad. Got a job that is eating all of my time. Been 12-16 hr days for the last few weeks. Add on a scout camp a track meet, coaching and a couple of weeks away from home on training and I haven't gotten much done. On the bright side I am moving into a new house with a two car garage that I can actually work on the truck in when things slow down a bit.
At a sales call the other day one of the guys was telling me about an old shop that was being cleaned out and most stuff being chucked out or gone to scrap. Had a chance to go back later in the week and scored a few little items. Not sure how old this tach is but it is in perfect shape inside spins free and now that I cleaned the outside and glass it will work perfect for the flat six. It is curved lens and tin body. With a light hole in back rather than the slots on the side. $20
Anybody ever run the cable drive tach off the back of the generator? Thinking might be the easiest way to go, just need to find the right combo of gear drive to get the speed right.
A friend had one on a Vette. I think the ket is the ratio between the crank and generator pulleys. I like cable drive tachs and plan to use one on my roadster. I plan to modify the timing cover and run it off the cam.
Can you run it off the crank center Matt? You are probably going to need an angle adapter and may have to play with ratios. That was a diesel tach and judging by the power curve (red pointers), off a smaller engine. That power curve equates to a 4-71 or 6-53 Detroit, as they fall on their face below 1700 but will rev to 2600. They are 2 stroke and they call them screaming jimmy's for a reason. If I remember correctly, they drive the tach off the injector pump which is a 1/1 ratio with the crank rotation. If you used a 2/1 adapter, just double the reading for accurate RPM or leave it and be careful not to over drive the tach mechanism.
The red pointers are adjustable in this one. Going to fool with the speed of this but would like to run it off the distributor or generator. The front of the crank is pretty tight spot with the way it sits in the truck. But I guess I could just run one of my extra speedo cables to make this happen.
You're a smart guy, wouldn't it be easier to salvage a belt tensioner off of something new and drive it off of that instead of the gennie or distributor?
With a tiny bit of fab it will run off the back of the genny, but the ratio would need to be adjusted with a S-W gear box. Might fool with it this weekend after scouts camp.....
Scientific testing on the tach tonight. It reads double the speed it runs at. Cordless drill runs 450rpm on low speed tach holds steady 900rpm.
Maybe possible to incorporate one of those speedometer gear reduction boxes into the tach cable? Just a thought
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