First carb rebuild and managed to break the throttle plate screws off in the shaft, managed to extract one but had to file them down to remove the shaft from the housing. Rather than using a marred part I would like to just buy a "new" shaft, however I can't find the part anywhere, it was hard enough to find the right rebuild kit. Any one on here have one for sale or a website to point me to? Thanks Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You might try looking at Edelbrock parts because the Edelbrock 1400 series carbs are basically AFB clones.
bummer, should have started your carb rebuilding career on one that you didn't need. First rule of carb rebuilding, never touch the little screws holding the throttle or choke plates to the shafts. Unless you have a good plan for how to remove them without breaking them.
They are probably staked on the ends, so after breaking one the best way to try to remove it is to screw it in further so it comes out the back side. Of course not easy with these small screws.
You have to grind the swedge off the backside of the screws before you try to remove them. A very small carbide in a high speed grinder is what I use. If you broke them off backing them out they are in so tight now that the only way to get them out is to drill them out and that is usually only marginally sucessful. I most likely have what you need as far as the throttle shaft goes. I don't think the manufacturer sells the separately. If you can P.M. me a close up pic of the shaft I will see what I can do for you
Can you take a micrometer to the shaft and give us exact diameter and length? Primary or secondary shaft?
You're 100% right on that, but a mistake is just a lesson learned I suppose, I've made more expensive mistakes! Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I got lucky, I made that mistake when I was quite young I continue to make mistakes, that's how I know so much today.
I wish I would've known that before trying to remove them, as that's exactly what happened. I used my Dremel with a similar bit on one and you're right, i won't be getting the rest out without severely marring the shaft. I'll send you a message later today when I get home from work, I'd buy it from carbking but they only sell parts like that as add-ons to kits. Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
is there some reason you want to remove the shaft? might be better off just drilling and retapping and put a new screw in (whatever size you can make work), and stake it, and be done with it.
Everything was quite dirty when I got the carb so I decided to break it completely down, I guess it bugged me that everything else was out except for the shaft. I tried drilling them out, but wasn't very successful. Hopefully saltracer has a shaft and I can just order a pack of screws Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
sometimes we have to adjust our sense of aesthetics, to how things actually work you'll get it fixed, somehow... and if not, you can always just buy another core to rebuild on ebay.
While I do not have drawings on the F/M AFB clones, I believe the primary shaft on the 9605s SHOULD be the same as the primary shaft on the 9635sa (but NOT the 9635s). And while I do not know the numbers, should be the same as the Edelbrock 600 and 625 AFB clones. For future reference: As others have stated in this thread, the screw was "staked" at the factory to prevent it from backing out. If it is necessary to remove the screws, first remove the staking from the back. I used a Dremel, but a flat file may be used. After you think you have all of the back removed, GENTLY turn the screw 90 degrees, and check it again. A little penetrating oil (I have no preferred brand, other than trying to find one with the least amount of smell ) If you do twist one off, it is NOT the end of the world. You need: (1) A Dremel with a sharp diamond pointed burr. (2) A very small carbide tipped bit that is sharp (3) A somewhat larger bit that is VERY dull (4) A variable speed drill Use the diamond pointed burr and Dremel like you would a center punch if the shaft was less fragile, to center a beginning point to drill from the top (where the slotted head was before it twisted in two). Use the very small bit to drill a hole completely through the screw (this helps to relieve stress). Now comes the part that you need to learn by practicing on some junk carbs. Put the somewhat larger drill bit in the variable speed drill, and slowly drill into the pilot hole. Once you have established the beginning of a hole, try to get the dull bit to gouge into the brass. You can then screw the screw completely out from the top without damaging the threads in the shaft. Note that I did not mention the size of drill bit. This was because I intended the above to be of universal use. I have seen throttle shaft screws in 3x48, 4x36, 4x40, 5x40, 6x32 (the Carter AFB screws were 6x32 but I do not know about the F/M Carter clones), 6x40, 8x32, and 10x32, and not even going to consider metric. Determine the original thread, and use one size smaller bit for (3) above than the size recommended if you were going to tap threads. And as often is the case, patience is your friend. Jon.