reids hot rods in orange ca. has them. 714 769-1932.you could probably find them on your side of town though.
You might be better off welding 3/8" coupling nuts to the top of your rails. They are about 1-1/4" long. Id cage nut rust up you'd be hard pressed to remove the bolts later, nuts have a tendency to spin in the cage. With the extra thread length of the couplers you'll have more to work with. Just a thought.
I weld a 1/2" x 1" x 1" piece of flat stock to the inside of the rail and drill and tap it, always works for me.
a cage nut allows for slight alignment compensation in a factory production setting. not needed on a handbuild.
...or the cage breaks and it falls away, or it rusts...admittedly probably not a problem with the average rod. The other option is a rivet-nut, though I'm still trying to figure out how to justify the cost of a decent 5/16+ rivet-nut tool.
I'm not a fan of cage nuts for the reasons others have mentioned, like if the nut starts to spin inside the cage later on. We usually weld some thicker metal straps to the top or underside of the frame and drill and tap threads right into that. We also use a lot of antisieze on any bolts we run down into those threads, sure makes it easier to gt them back out years later. Don
I would agree that cage nuts can be a headache so why not use "weldnuts" here is a link to a supplier in Ohio! http://www.on-b.com/nuts/dek-4.aspx i had them send me some and the sales guy said just about all the resto guys are supplied by them and your paying the mark up.
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