Projects Building my first Traditional hot rod Need help

So been thinking about building a traditional Hot rod for some time now and finally got one!!! Well A pile of parts that is...hahaha. Looking for some advise, I have some decent parts to get myself started (in trouble basically) and need some direction on how to go about putting them together. My plan is to build a 1930 roadster, olds 303, T5 trans, pinched 1932 frame, 40 rear and split wish bones, 40 x-member, 40 wheels, and 1940 front axle/ brakes, split wishbone front as well. My goal is to get it to a rolling chassis in the next year or so. Trying to plan as much as I can before I get started, so to not make so many mistakes along the way. My current parts list is as follows:

Rust free 30 roadster body, with complete top and rumble seat
olds 303, with some cool speed parts, isky cam, isky adjustable rockers, #10 324 heads, and a fenton Trip carb set up with hollys.
1932 frame boxed (no pinched yet but that's the plan)
1940 rear cross member
Complete drum to drum 1940 rear end, with spring, wishbones, and torque tube(not using)
Complete drum to drum 1940 front axle, with wishbones, and spring
1940 x-member
1940 wheels as well
t5 transmission with short tail-shaft
1932 grill

Reason im asking is i build plenty of cars along the way, I haven't build a hotrod. Ive been doing all the research i can ie reading books, scourging the HAMB, and asking a lot of questions. Any of you guys have some advise or potential draw backs to the plan/ parts list you see here? I understand its no where near complete but the basics before are there to get started... maybe. Maybe a build thread or two that i haven't read or you could point me too would be much appreciated. Thanks everyone in advance.

 

Let’s see, body, check, frame, check, rear end, check, front end, check engine, tbd ( coming soon that is) . Looks like you’re on the right track. I like it.

 

If you use the '40 front end with the front crossmember/spring perch in the stock location the front wheels will be about 4" rearward of the stock position. It's been done, but the car's proportions will look a bit awkward.

 

Yea I was thinking that too, i was planning on converting to a spring over for the front, instead of the spring in front as it is now. Looks better that way. I know its been done but cant seem to find details on how. I know the basic premise but would like to have seen it done that way just to get the process in my head. thanks for the reply!!

 

One thing is if you are using old used parts be prepared for the possibility that they are worn out and you may need to find others. My biggest disappointment building my 31 was the amount of used parts I bought that basically were no good and it took a lot of time and effort ($) to get them restored or replaced when I figured I was good to go. In a lot of cases just buying new parts would have been cheaper for me.

 

Go have a look at how Rolling Bones builds their chassis, that'll give you an idea of what you need and how to go about it.

 

Sounds like a good start ... I'll be following, as I hope to start a 50's period build in the future

 

I don’t think you need to pinch the frame for a 30, but mock it up first.

I would recommend a different axle too. Any from 28-36 would be a better fit, and use its spring too.

 

I’ll check it out thanks

 

Yea I plan on using all new wearables and such. Hope I don’t run into major issues with them, but time will tell. Thanks for the reply

 

I think I’m going to instead on pinch I’m got to mock up and cut the front crossmember down a little to match the outside of the cowl. The install the x member. I’ll keep the rear I cross member in the whole time. I better get used to pulling the body off and on a bunch.

 

I was thinking that about the front axle too… but was seeing if any info on using a 40 withs a spring over set up just cause I have one. I plan on getting whatever on dropped as well.

 

The '40 axle has the spring perch holes out closer to the spindles than earlier axles. That can adversly affect the turning radius if you split the bones. You'll be better off by simply using a "standard" hot rod setup with an earlier axle as recommended above. These combinations have been well proven and parts are readily available, both new and used.

 

It always amazes me how things done in period fall out of favor, are deemed not traditional/period correct.

 

The Mack roadster was/is perfection. (even IF the spring was ahead of the axle!) He and Isky hid it well...

 

Buy the book “how to build a traditional hot rod” by Vern Tardel. I also agree that the spring in front is traditional. We don’t want to admit it, but over half the cars were built that way.

 

It always amazes me how people react to things they haven't really read. No one claimed that spring before axle setups weren't period or correct, only that when mounted to a crossmember in the stock location the wheelbase would be shortened and aesthetics compromised. That is a simple fact. Isky's car and the Hamb roadster clearly have the axles nicely located and the spring perches positioned to allow that. As far as "period" and "correct" go, a roll bar made of water pipe would qualify, but that doesn't make it a good idea.

 

When a guy is still gathering parts it’s easy for him to make changes that will be beneficial to his results. I personally think a 28-36 axle will give him more room for tire turning, especially if he splits the wishbones. And the proper spring will be super easy to find and cheap. And the spring will fit his crossmember. And if he drops the axle he can have a better shape than the 40 which will be stubby between the perch and spindle. But that’s just me.

 

Agreed, ditch the '40 axle, get an early dropped axle, cut the spring perches off the front of the '40 wishbones, and mount the spring on top of the axle utilizing the '32 crossmember. So much simpler, especially for a first timer. Everything from the '40 spindles out will bolt onto an early axle, so you can still use the juice brakes, etc.

 

No, I read it my point was missed. People have completely lost sight or forgotten what hot rodding was, everyone had an idea, people used what they had to build a car.

Today if a car isn't built in the "classic" west coast hi-boy style with a flathead or a banger it's considered not right or not really a hot rod.

Aesthetics are a matter of personal preference not history of fact, personally I fail to see what the appeal the Doane Spencer or Bob McGee roadsters, but they are hot rod history and if someone wants to build a car in that style it's their car.

You are also assuming the original poster was going to leave the crossmember in the stock location if he ran this set up.

 

Dude, 4th post down the OP said he wants spring over, but isn’t sure the best way to get there. I was just giving him my opinion on the best way to get where he already wanted to go.

And, if you can’t see the appeal of the McGee and Spencer roadsters, you are really on the wrong website!

 

Thanks for replying. That’s probably what I will do. I just have to get searching or just buy one dropped already. Thanks

 

Best advice I can give is don't imprison your vision. Sound technical advice is always welcome, but I find it better to let such things inspire rather than become instruction. The only other thing is don't let the car get confused. IE, maybe you want electronic ignition but if that means a newer red cap on a bright aluminium body, well now it looks confused. Hide that shit. Paint the trans the engine color so it blends in and respects or tributes your direction. Finally, make sure it works. I remain amazed at how many old cars drive like shit and owners or builders just take a "...and that's just how it was..." stance. It wasn't. If it can't go down a flat road straight or stop straight with your hands off the wheel that's a miss. If it starts hard, stinks too much (some smell is ok), needs to cool off too long, all a miss. The best details are the functional unseen ones. No I won't flower up how to get there from here and make it sound easy. It isn't. That's all I got. Go for it.

 

The search icon here is full of info on my 30 Roadster chassis. 40 front axle in stock form and 37 rear housing with Model A rear spring. No kick at all and stock Model A wheelbase. No I haven't finished the build yet. The trick is just knowing how to do what you want done. If I ever get back on this project it will be a full fendered car and so stock frame horns were a must. No big deal really.

Yes it's Canneled 6". The floor pan from toe board to trunk latch is totally FLAT. Let's me have an actual Trunk that can be used and a place for a Gas Tank that doesn't steel any of that space.

Nothing to it when you do your Homework before you start following the Directions on How To Build a Hot Rod. There aren't any directions for a vision. Here's an Exploded photo of the Chassis before I actually started welding anything up. I bet I've posted it here more than 25 times. The difference here is you are using 32 rails and for some silly reason everyone including you seem to think Boxing frame rails is a Must. Wrong, that's a me-too thing. Silly at best for a Street chassis.

F,Y,I, I'm over the halfway mark getting through my 70's and made a good living building Hot Rods all my life. I understand according to the New Kids I really don't know how to do things the New Old School or Traditional way. I only know how and why we did what we did to get things done through the 60's and 70's. We didn't copy anyone. We just built our Hot Rods so we could go raise Hell and have a good time doing it. I see things have changed a lot. Yes, I have some opinions and I've made some mistakes over the years. I'm more than willing to share both when asked. For now I'll just go back under my Rock and keep doing what I can as usual.
Good luck with your build.

 

Good for inspiration, but probably not best for a guy building his first hot rod to try to emulate a Rolling Bones style build, seems to me to be a bit advanced for a first timer, especially the front suspension.

Nobody said it wasn't period correct or couldn't be done, but just like the Rolling Bones advice above, probably not the best way to go for a first time builder. Maybe he tries it on his 2nd build, eh?

So it looks like you've stretched the wheelbase, right? Again, that's adding some complexity to the job that maybe isn't the best tack for a first time build. He's got a good frame, he could stretch the frame to use the front suspension he has and maintain aesthetically pleasing wheelbase, or he could convert the axle he has to spring over and deal with the wider spring perch placement, or he could get a different spring over axle, which is easier for a first time build? I know what I'd do.

 

These are great looking hot rods. Love them really. Thanks for the pics!!!

 

Yup i have it!!! reading through it quite often.

 

Absolutely WRONG! The wheelbase on my Roadster as I said is 103.5 just like all other stock Model A's. Once I mount the rear fenders and stock Model A running boards the Stock A front fenders will mount as they would on a stock Model A chassis with the front tires where they belong in the fender openings. I don' know how to make it clearer than that and I've put it in print right here several times. It's all in knowing how to do what you're doing. Being he's using a set of 32 rails it's not exactly Apples to Apples but still can be done in the same way. Ya just gotta think about what you're doing.

 

My bad, I meant to ask if you stretched the frame, keeping the wheelbase the same. My fingers didn't type what my mind was thinking.

 

Heres some pics of the roadster and some of the parts i have.