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Building a carbureted 4 cylinder intake manifold?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Gearstix, Dec 22, 2008.

  1. Beef Stew
    Joined: Oct 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,253

    Beef Stew
    Member
    from So Cal

    Yes. It's the big flappy looking thing right at the top.

    If there isn't a hole to stick a distributor then you need to find another way to drive it. You can use a belt drive and drive it off the front of the crank. The distributor spins 1/2 the speed of the crank so if you drive it off the crank the distributor pulley needs to be twice the diameter of the crank pulley.

    Or, you can drive the distributor 1:1 off of the cam. The cam also spins at 1/2 the speed of the crank.
     
  2. Gearstix
    Joined: Dec 21, 2008
    Posts: 194

    Gearstix
    Member

    Does it have to be a 'toothed' pulley or could it be a v-belt? I think I'd have a hard time finding a 'toothed' pulley that big.
     
  3. V-belts slip. A small amount of slipping is not noticeable
    on a water pump, BIG problem on a distributor, if you want
    the motor to keep running.

    Stick to the EFI. Less work, and it will run better.
     
  4. Beef Stew
    Joined: Oct 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,253

    Beef Stew
    Member
    from So Cal

    Yeah needs teeth. Can't slip or you're lose your timing. Research belt driven mechanical fuel pumps (Ron's, Hilborn, Enderle, etc).
     
  5. I'd really like to see how this distributor drive looks.

    MSD makes a belt drive distributor for the BB Chevy . It is often used when there is no room because of a blower etc.
    One of the oldest i have ever seen was on my brothers Classic boat the Hand Maiden.
    It was built in Boston in 1923 and was powered by a Model t ford engine. It used a set of brackets supporting a gear on two bearings and a Distributor of a completely different engine was bolted to the brackets It used a bicyle type chain. It worked fine for at least 70 years. To be honest it was so simple it scared me but it worked so well and was technically correct I realized what scared me was I hadnt seen it before. The trick is to make sure the distributor doesnt carry the load of the belt and toothed gear because it simply cant. Making the support and bracket so the dstributor fits in not unlke it would in the normal style engine will solve this. I am working on a 5.7 Hemi project right now and am really tempted to run a belt drive distributor on it if I go Carbs .Where would you get the toothed gears? Off any Pinto 2300 , Dodge 2.2 , Vega just to name a few. Cam and crank gears since the cam runs 1/2 speed like the distributor must. Belts are available in almost any length you can dream of as long as the tooth spacing is right. It will take a bit of planning and doing but it will work just fine. The engine will not know the difference.
    Don
     
  6. The Big M
    Joined: Dec 22, 2005
    Posts: 231

    The Big M
    Member

    I agree. You could try adapting a timing belt setup from an overhead cam engine. That would give you the right ratio. Remember that it's the relative size of the two that is important. Mating the sprockets to the crank pulley might take some figuring...
     
  7. Gearstix
    Joined: Dec 21, 2008
    Posts: 194

    Gearstix
    Member

    I was thinking a chain might work. I think I'd be able to get a sprocket thats large enough... but the sprocket would be huge!. I think my crank pulley is around 6 5/8" in diameter. will have to check that to make sure.
    The 2.2 engine I have is rather 'old technology' from what I've read. Its a pushrod 4 cylinder with a cam in the block.
    I will have to go look for some photos of the dodge 2.2 or pinto engine.. waaaait. We've got a genset at my fathers work, has a small ford pinto engine in it...
     
  8. Gearstix
    Joined: Dec 21, 2008
    Posts: 194

    Gearstix
    Member

    I have an idea.. since the bolts 'stick out' on my engine, could I make something that you bolt onto the pulley, then the pulley bolts to it? I'll draw it up in cad.

    Would it be easier to run a blower than a turbo??
     
  9. Beef Stew
    Joined: Oct 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,253

    Beef Stew
    Member
    from So Cal

    OMG you guys are killing me. Just because the crank pulley you have is such a diameter doesn't mean your drive sprocket has to be that big. Do what I said and research mechanical fuel injectin pump drives. You're answer is there.
     
  10. Beef Stew
    Joined: Oct 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,253

    Beef Stew
    Member
    from So Cal

  11. Beef Stew
    Joined: Oct 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,253

    Beef Stew
    Member
    from So Cal

    Unless this engine was free you're asking for more trouble than it's worth if you want to run a carbed turbo setup and a distributor. Don't half ass something because you don't know what you're doing. Do the appropriate research and do it right... the first time.
     
  12. Gearstix
    Joined: Dec 21, 2008
    Posts: 194

    Gearstix
    Member

    [​IMG] crank pulley. not my photo, but same one as on my truck
     
  13. Gearstix
    Joined: Dec 21, 2008
    Posts: 194

    Gearstix
    Member

    I may not turbo it, if its gunna be that much of an issue.
     
  14. Kona Cruisers
    Joined: Feb 4, 2007
    Posts: 1,078

    Kona Cruisers
    Member

  15. Gearstix
    Joined: Dec 21, 2008
    Posts: 194

    Gearstix
    Member

    Hmmm I remember this from a video I saw of a Briggs and Stratton 5hp Flathead converted to Fuel injection, didn't seem like it ran very good though
     
  16. Beef Stew
    Joined: Oct 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,253

    Beef Stew
    Member
    from So Cal

    Good night dude, are you seriously going to think that DIS won't work because you saw some YouTube video with a lawn mower in it?

    Here is the problem with DIS: it's computer controlled. If you're going to use a computer to control you ignition/timing then you might as well use a computer to control everything and go efi.

    You could probably adapt a standard electronic distributor to a belt drive pretty easily.

    IMO, your best options:

    1. turbo, efi, dis
    2. n/a, carb, belt drive distributor

    Now all you have to do is flip a coin.
     
  17. Beef Stew
    Joined: Oct 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,253

    Beef Stew
    Member
    from So Cal

  18. Gearstix
    Joined: Dec 21, 2008
    Posts: 194

    Gearstix
    Member

    No... I'm just saying it didn't seem to run well.
    It was used on a mass production vehicle or two, so it can't be that bad.
    It just seems to complicated. I'd rather do the belt drive distributor.. I may just pull the engine out and put in a SBC.
     
  19. Gearstix
    Joined: Dec 21, 2008
    Posts: 194

    Gearstix
    Member

  20. David Chandler
    Joined: Jan 27, 2007
    Posts: 1,101

    David Chandler
    Member

    I agree that unless this thing is free, you are going to drive yourself nuts over it, and still have a mishmash of parts. If you really want a similar 4 banger, pick up an S10 2.5 for next to nothing at the scrap yard. This would give you an intake manafold that you could addapt to a carburetor, and a distributor. I have been told that the early versions of this engine had non computer controled distributors. Aside from that put in a high volume oil pump from a Fiero, and you can drive it. It's a cross flow head, it comes with a factory header on it, and also a gear driven roller cam.
     
  21. Rex Schimmer
    Joined: Nov 17, 2006
    Posts: 743

    Rex Schimmer
    Member
    from Fulton, CA

    My kid made this manifold for a Nissan 240ZR motor that he is putting in his Datsun 510. The carbs are Mikuni 45 mm side drafts. He built these header for it also, including the merge collector. First headers he ever built!

    Rex
     

    Attached Files:

  22. Turbo? I did the complete install on a slant six in the seventies in less than a day.
    Piece of cake. You lnow what the biggest obstacle to any project is? Getting started!
    After that with regular work it WILL get done. Forget a time line, just work on it regular. Decide you are gonna do it and then BEGIN. Didnt someone once say the longest part of any journey is the first step? Tis true. In another life i build violins (just for myself) I know it will take me 1 to 2 years to make each one but man when you done and bring them to life, what a feeling! Hot rodding is the same. I remember and will forever my first pass in the Sr Dragster. Saw all the EXPERTS standing talking . All the guys who said it cant be done. wont pass tech will never work and all that other nonsense. Set your teeth and dont quit ever! SUCCESS IS THE BEST REVENGE!!!!!!!!!!!
    Don
     
  23. ma70tt
    Joined: Nov 14, 2008
    Posts: 135

    ma70tt
    Member

    might want to check out homemadeturbo.com its ricer based but there is alot of info.

    i would recommend keeping it efi, hit up the junkyard for a turbo sized for your needs, grab an intercooler while your there, fab it all up then control your fuel issues with an old used apexi safc (they dont make them anymore but cuctomers keep bringing new ones into my shop). theyre cheap and they do a reasonably good job (no timing control). i have been turbocharging/tuning for @ 10 years and that is the simplest/easiest way to do it
     
  24. Gearstix
    Joined: Dec 21, 2008
    Posts: 194

    Gearstix
    Member

    Theres a bunch of problems with my year engine that make it hard to turbocharge it.
    The way the intake is, so I've read, you cannot change the injectors in it, and the stock ones are at almost 100% duty cycle.
    And if I wanted to tune the stock computer, I'd have to take it to a shop I talked to in the states, they'd have to dyno tune it, and every time anything had to be changed on the tune, a new chip had to be burnt.
    Dolmetsch, your alot more motivated than I. Was the slant six carbureted (well did they ever come fuel injected?)
    I really like the slant motors. I worked with my dad at the airport during the summer, and theres a bunch of older equipment. There was a plane de-icer I think it was with a flathead chrysler, we have a generator with a slant 6. very neat motor to look at.
    Theres also some belt loaders with 240cu.in Ford I6s. I really like them, and I ain't no ford guy.
     
  25. lostforawhile
    Joined: Mar 23, 2008
    Posts: 4,160

    lostforawhile
    Member

    here's mine, with two SU's it's holding on funds since the entire country took a shit [​IMG]
     
  26. tdoty
    Joined: Jun 21, 2006
    Posts: 821

    tdoty
    Member

    Ignition issues? The Gilmer belt drive is a simple deal. An old Escort 1.6L distributor might be really easy to adapt. If I can ever get my free Quad 4 up here from GA, that's the way I'm gonna go.

    Another option might be to use a crank trigger and a "batch fire" ignition - fire 2 cylinders at one time. Yeah, it'd require a computer, but it's just a simple MSD timing computer to make up for the lack of mechanical and vacuum advance. Make up a "reluctor wheel" and use a Mopar pickup to fire 2 coil packs from, for example, a '94 Grand Prix.

    Just my thoughts on "backdating" a modern 4.

    Tim D.
     
  27. Gearstix
    Joined: Dec 21, 2008
    Posts: 194

    Gearstix
    Member

    What if I put a small pulley on the crank, and a one double the size of that on the distributor?
     
  28. tdoty
    Joined: Jun 21, 2006
    Posts: 821

    tdoty
    Member

    Then the distributor will turn half the speed of the crank. since that's exactly what you want it to do, it'll work perfectly ;)

    Tim D.
     
  29. Gearstix
    Joined: Dec 21, 2008
    Posts: 194

    Gearstix
    Member

    So I could put a 1" pulley say, on the crank, and a 2" one on the distributor..
    I can't really remember how this works right now, really tired.
    Hmm. I will think about this.
     
  30. Gearstix
    Joined: Dec 21, 2008
    Posts: 194

    Gearstix
    Member

    Ok.. bringing this back.
    Just wondering about the distributor itself, does the shaft have to be lubricated? Does any of it spin other than the gear?
    I'm just thinking of making some brackets any maybe hanging it from the intake manifold or something.
     

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