If it is a 327 I will like it....Been into them for many years and still think they are the best bang for the buck......The yellow deuce to the left here I built a 383 stroker motor with trick flow heads, all roller cam & lifters and a small 144 B&M blower single 4 carb. Runs great......Then I built a 327, 1962, 30 over with KB pistons & 461X heads, hyd lifters with a mullins cam & single 4 barrel Carter comp series carb and I think the 327 will blow the doors off of the 383 motor
Grab a 307 and 305HO heads. My favorite low Buck motorvation combo. @ 300 hp it Can't be beat in dollars per HP ratio- nothing even comes close.
Man, I wouldn't shy away from a 307 if he's willing to deal on one. Maybe the most over looked / under appreciated of the small blocks. They got a bad reputation, but there is nothing wrong with the basic engine that standard hot rodding techniques won't cure.
If you can get a 4'' bore block core for $100 thats great. I'd be a little reluctant to shell out 350 for an unknown engine just because it's complete.
I just got a couple e-mails back on 327's. One is a disassembled 66 327 short block, steel crank that might clean up (I don't know if he's talking about the block, or the crank). Bores are currently 030. The other is a (I believe it said '68) std bore block, std std steel crankshaft, connecting rods and virgin 461 cylinder heads. I got the e-mail back last night, but this mourning it's expired, so I can't read it again. I don't know what he is asking for it. I already fired him a e-mail asking how much (I thing it was $350.00), and to make sure he still has it this mourning. Both are 230 ish miles away in different states. Road trip! I'm going to have to use my money I saved for my new shorter 9" axles, but I haven't shorten it yet. I need to find some housing shortening pucks, that fit on a 1 1/4 shaft. I have the shaft, but need to buy or borrow the bearing pucks. Thanks, Pat
Below is a Wiki quote on the 307. A 307 cu in version was produced from 1968 through 1973. Engine bore was 3.875 inches with a 3.25-inch (82.6 mm) stroke. All 307s had large 2.45 in (62.23 mm) journals - the crankshaft is sourced from the 327. Pistons used with the 307 share the same pin height as the 327 but retaining the 283s bore size (prior to 1968 it was possible to stroke a 283 into a 307 where aftermarket pistons had to be used). Personally I like them although how many still exist? They were plentiful for stock car claimer classes and we turned them up to 7k on many nights.
I have a 3.70 rear and 4-speed in my car and the performance is similar, it has a great pull to it after 2500 rpms. My static CR is 9.70:1 and I run 93 octane. If I use 91 octane it pings. I blast through traffic with it. 3000 rpms is 70 mph.
Friend of mine has a nos small journal 327 crank that he will sell if you run into a need for one. Just outside of St. Louis. D
I talked with a guy tonight. I'm going to buy his '66 327, tomorrow. It's bored .030 over, cylinders look real good. It has a steel crank, but it has a scar on the crank bearing. He thinks the crank might clean up without grinding it. No heads or intake with it. He say's it had the deck cleaned up, but does not know how much they took off. He say's it removed the deck stamping. He did not run this motor. He had to buy a hand full of engines to get the 427 he wanted. How much can you deck a block before it's a intake problem? Now I need to locate some oem type heads for it, a cam, and a inexpensive 2x4 manifold. Then go through it. Pat
Ok, I bought the 327. He took this motor out of a customers '66 Corvette, he believes to be original to the car. But the deck was cleaned, and it removed the stampings. I don't really care if it was in a vette, or not. It was rebuilt, and bored .030 over, He did not put to many miles on it, and it spun a rod bearing. It has a steel crank. it doesn't look to bad, but will need to be turned. The cylinder look great, I wouldn't need to hone them, but I'd would not put it together without doing it! The pistons look new yet. There is no cam, but I don't care. There are no heads. I also bought a Weiand 2x4 tunnel ram he had, to use on it. So I need to get some factory heads that will work with it. What do you suggest to use. I can't afford to by any high dollar ones. I have heard some using 305 heads to lower the cc's. Which ones? I want to build it towards bottom end torque, and not so much for top end. Ya, I know, but your putting a tunnel ram on top. Cam, some thing, idle to 4500 about. Something around 285 deration 454 lift, 110-112? overlap. Am I thinking about right? Or am I off the ball on that. Or a factory 327-350hp cam. I do want some lop to the idle. I have a rebuilt Holley 1850-2, (600) sitting on my shelf, so I may just pick up another, and run them on top. I don't know what gears are good for my app. with a 700R4 tranny, with 29" tire. Street driving, and some light to light so to speak, fun. I have read everything you guys have wrote on here, now I need to lock some things down. So that I can start picking some of it, as my funds go. OK, now put me in my place on thinking! Thanks, Pat
The factory 327/350 hp cam is pretty mild in my opinion. Being a real 327 will help the cam sound bigger vs larger cubic inch, but there are modern grinds that are better. Main limit with the 327/350 cam is the lift is 0.447, you can go a lot higher with the duration the same. 305 heads are not the best, tend to be small valves and ports. They do have smaller 58 cc chamber size. Some aftermarket alum heads will be a significant improvement. Old style perimeter valve covers will look better than newer center-bolt style (i.e. Vortec heads or similar), and allow you to run some older nice alum valve covers for appearance. If you can't afford the alum aftermarket, then look at swap meets for some cheap used heads, hopefully ones that can be cleaned up and used without too much rebuilding cost. be careful as a lot of the cheap used heads will be the larger chamber 76cc size. Your choice to run the tunnel ram and then wanting a torque engine and the lower rpms cruising with OD do not seem to be a good match. A simple single four alum intake, not an open plenum design, will be better match for what you want. Rear gear I think a 4.11 would be good choice. In a light bucket type rod, you will just spin the tires even more with greater than 4.11 numerically. The 327 if built like you want with some cam, will need a bit more cruising rpm to really work best. That's my $.02 toward your build.
Caution !!! Read at your own risk. Thinking adjustment and reality check below. If you want stop light fun I'd go with min of 3.7x gears but 4.56 would be my choice. I'm thinking you want a poser tunnel ram and a poser parking lot lope. the lope or cadence is a unintended consequence and by product of running a high rpm cam. Although audibly pleasing, the engine is actually in a rhythmic struggle to stay running at idle. Tunnel ram and 4500 rpm tow truck cam is stupid. By the time the RPMs let the tunnel ram work the cam is done and your engine is out of breath. With an idle to 4500 cam you won't have much of a loopy idle either and you'll need to short shift the combo. Building a small cube motor for low rpm torque is why they made big blocks. You build torque thru gas velocity in and out, you build Power with torque at Rpm. Small cube Low rpm torque needs small intake runners, and small primary tubes or manifolds. Small runners don't need big valves, actually big valves hurt low rpm velocity. On the other hand, high rpm power needs volume and velocity, enter tunnel Rams and big primary tubes and big valves. In these setups there is no low end torque because there's no velocity, no velocity until the Rpms get to 3500-4000 and they make lots of power all the way to expensive RPM range
Before you spend a dime on any other part buy this for about10 bucks. If you can find the original by Smokey Yunick even better. read it cover to cover then read it again.
I was close to giving this a bump this morning, so glad to see some new activity. All true, but if the plan is to build a mild hydraulic cammed street engine, the 327/350 h.p. spec. engine is still pretty hard to beat. Many of the camshaft mfg's have copied all the popular factory musclecar era cams, Crane has/had a "blueprint" series that was very popular and like 38Chevy454 mentioned earlier, they have made some improvements over the oem designs. The original high h.p. 327's had around 11.25 compression ratio as well as the big valve 2.02 heads but a street engine with 10.00 compresson and the 1.94 heads would still be a sweet combination, especially with a wide ratio 4 speed such as a Muncie M-20 and a rear gear ratio in the mid 3.00 range.
You guys must be some lucky guys going .060 on all those 327's with no problems. I always considered .030 it. I would sonic check them over .030. JMO. Course my opinion and 35 cents won't get you a coffee. Lippy
Roger that. A bad core shift can turn an otherwise perfectly rebuildable block into a door stop. By my memory .030 overbores were the most common but this 327 ended up needing plus .040 and one sleeve, not totally sure why as the guy that bored it in the late 80's for me was a bit tight lipped about it. Lucky for me; at the time TRW still had .040 over forged 11/1 pistons on the shelf. As long as this is a 327 specific thread; who can spot the one tell-tale feature that makes this a somewhat rare engine.
[QUOTE="DDDenny, post: 11817786, member: 260805"] As long as this is a 327 specific thread; who can spot the one tell-tale feature that makes this a somewhat rare engine. View attachment 3401599 [/QUOTE] It's a Chevy II block with the high oil filter pad and they have a unique boss for the clutch linkage pivot ball too.
It's a Chevy II block with the high oil filter pad and they have a unique boss for the clutch linkage pivot ball too.[/QUOTE] Winner winner chicken dinner. Would you like regular or extra crispy? And if you need a bare block and find one for less than a grand, you better grab it!
I had a '67 Nova, 283/4 spd with 4.56 gears for my first car in 1969, so that was an easy one for me to spot. Offenhauser hi-rise, 780 Holley, 1.94 heads and an 097 Duntov. Wasn't that crazy about the Butternut yellow paint at the time, but the high winding 283 and 4.56 gears made for big fun. The one I shoulda kept!
There you go George; just one more reason you should have come-on-down. The 56 Sedan Delivery is BUTTERNUT YELLOW! Sent the OP a PM on "327 parts"; you want some more? I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
I had a Butternut Yellow 1967 Impala SS convertible I bought from the original owner. Unfortunately, he painted it dark blue before I bought it. :-( I friend of mine bought a Butternut Yellow 1967 Camaro in 1975 and still has it. He painted it dark blue in 1977. :-(
Friend of mine had a 65 chevyII/nova butternut yellow rag top black top black interior. SS 4speed 4:56 gears. He would always blow the doors clean off my GTO . But he could not go far always whining about RPMs on the highway, whining about noise, whining about gas mileage.
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