Hot Rods Build #2 I 30 Model A"Coupe" AKA Phoenix

No problem Joe. I should be up at the shop this coming week. The tunnel had me concerned a bit at first due to confines and limited room. After "sitting" in there I realized I have more than enough room. I will try to get the driveshaft mounted as well to give you a better idea. I cut an old driveshaft down, machined the flange for a press fit and then welded it back. Had to order a bastard u joint for the drive shaft to mate up with trans output. I'll press the joints in and mock it up next week.
Thanks again.


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J- I am concerned about foot room and pedals with the high tunnel. I am using a Super T-10 transmission which will make the tunnel a little thinner but the Model A's are very small cars. With the lower body taper the floor is narrow to begin with. Plus I have to fit in full containment seat and roll cage. I am planning hanging pedals for max clearance. Really like your build. Would make a good hull for a land speed competition coupe.
Joe

 

Roger that Joe. Yeah, the area for your feet will be tight especially when you add a clutch.
I'll try to snap pics for you and some rough measurements from cowl to my trans case. Grant


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Here are a couple pics I took. Hope they give you an idea. Your tranny will bet you more real estate and I could actually have more if I squeeze things tighter against the trans but I'm not going to.


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I see how framed the floor ... thank you.

Joe

 

More updates. I have been trying to button up some things on my checklist like finish welding frame and all of the suspension components. I've been jockeying back and forth between those things and trans/engine component upgrades, etc.
may not look like much but I have about 12 solid hours in frame welding guasetting and the little things mentioned above.



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I got up on the rear frame and bounced and this thing is super smooth. I am really surprised actually since I just threw this together with what I had available.


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The frame is still not complete. Once I get the brake assembly in and mounted where I want it I will finish the K member. Right now the rear portion is the only portion finished.


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Steering column and linkage hopefully going in tonight after the day job lets out. Rolls well but guiding the wheels by hand is a minor PITA.


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Also going to make the front shock mounts. Haven't decided how I want to mount the headlights just yet. Off the shock mounts or something different. I'll have to do some looking around for ideas. If anyone has some suggestions or ideas I am open.


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Looking bad a$$.. Im thinking of using a LS motor myself in my 28 .. looking forward to see the progress

 

I was going to drop a 454 in it but that motor's weight with a vega steering set up and lack of HP without considerable cost made going to an LS an easy choice.
I can say that if I had to do it over again I would have NOT gone the distributor route and kept the coil packs. Going with a distributor was about a $1500 additional cost.
It should look pretty cool but if you need to watch your pennies then use the coil packs and be done with it.


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Did you consider just welding plate along the inside of the radius rods, the full length?

 

No. Reason being is I originally thought there would be more interference with body and suspension which is why I made them all contorted. If these give me any trouble I'll simply take them out and make some different ones that are straighter. I want to try and see if these will work first. I like the idea of having a bunch of old parts thrown into the mix. These pieces are from an old British Ford. Engine mounts came from these radius rods as well.


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Got to the shop over the weekend a bit and then Monday evening. Last night I got the visor put in and started header install.

Welded it in and then smoothed it out.
I really wish I would have left the cowl bare after blasting it. Wire wheeling the primer off is a PITA.
It'll all get blasted again when body work is actually complete.


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Forgot to mention. I also had reinforced the front frame "horns" by running some 1/2" plate inside and then plug welded from the top. I wanted to add a couple other measures of safety for this suited front. This was one. Also, on the underside of the horns there is a rounded bottom God forbid something breaks and the frame makes contact with the ground.
I also added shock mounts as seen in last pic.


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Working on the brakes now.
You might be able to see the turn signals. I machined a hollow tube and drilled out the shock mount. Wire will come out under the mount.


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Actually made more progress than in any recent pics. Here is a pic of steering column installed (temporarily).
I removed all of the original fuel tank under the top of the cowl. Inside will be a tray for all of the wiring and battery to sit in. One of the cross braces is what the steering drop is mounted to.
I also have the brakes and MC pretty much ready to go in. I had to scrap the set up I had purchased and pretty much make an entirely new one because my frame's crossmember is smack dab in the way. I found a neat and clean solution. I'll post pics after I get her squared away. Son's soccer tonight though


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I had a slight interference issue with the brake and MC bracket so I ended up machining a longer plunger rod and it easily clears the crossmember. Also needed to extend the pedal bar to allow for correct arc of the pedal with the least amount of effort.


Not pictured is my dads 64 vette we are working on. Actually just the chassis and new LS/Tremec T56 combo going in.
Body is getting fresh paint.


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Only had about two hours to play this evening but that is better than nothing. Was able to mount the thru frame brake lines in the front, mocked up my radiator which fits like a glove, and the. Was able to mock up a cowl tray to hold all electrical components and a battery when that time comes.



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Got some floor pans started. Slow progress but progress nonetheless

Edit: I tried posting pics but it won't let me. Pics to come when this gets squared away.



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Wanted to use the original wheel but the steering column was a road block.
Decided to machine an adapter to allow the late model chevy column mate up with the old ford wheel.
Took quite awhile to make the adapter. There was a lot of material that need to be removed on the wheel side where it necks down to ~0.75". I then keyed it to match the steering wheel. In the center of the small shaft it will be threaded and that will hold the steering wheel down. The Keyes shaft serves to handle the torque load of actually turning. Just like the original wheel did.



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Btw, there are a LOT more steps between cutting the blank and making it work!
I just suck at picture taking.


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Didn't get much more done on the coupe but I did put a gear motor on my bead roller with a variable speed control via foot pedal.
Ought to make the panels a little easier to make now....
I'm going to pull the driver side one out and remake it. Don't like the way it fits.


I machined the end of the original hand crank shaft in the roller to accept the smaller 1/2" gear motor's shaft. Works well the way it is. Only down side is the torque is a little on the weak side. Cannot get a heavy bead in first pass. Too much strain on the motor.When time permits, I will likely pull the assembly apart, fit some sprockets on to reduce the motor strain as well as rpm. That'll be easy enough. Just time.....


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Decided to pull the drivers side floor pan out and remake it. Didn't like the fit. Then, after I was happy with it, I got on with making the backs and 1/4 window sides. Everything interlocks with flanges so the pans are nice and solid.
I'm going to try and make the toe and kick panels this evening or maybe some simple door panels.


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Really coming together. Very nice floors, what gauge did you use ?


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Thanks. 18ga


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Not a whole lot of change but did get the last panels (toe and kick) in and some temporary door panels just to help hide the ugly for now.
They all interlock with flanges and fit like a puzzle. I pulled them all out and getting them back in was fun but all fit right. Should make for a quieter and more solid ride.


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Slight update with steering. I needed to take out the toe panel on driver side as I had my steering column going in at too steep of an angle given my seats will be low. I then brought the column out a little higher in firewall and I am much happier. Also machined a piece of stainless rod for the double D shaft. Voila, turns power


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