I posted this for the Buick guys, but I figured I'd ask the whole board too. Anyone ever do a rear main on a Buick straight 8? My Buick is leakin pretty bad and I figured oil pan gasket and rear main would be a good place to start. A link to a procedure write up would be great. Thanks!
This 'rubber' version replacement has to be easier and probably better than trying to use one of the original 'rope' type seals.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Buick-40-50-Rubber-Rear-Main-Seal-233-248-263-BEST-/190279009659
Buick guys? Can this be done with the engine in the car? I'm just finding that a few people did their rear main with the engine out. There has to be someone out here who has done this.
From AACA.ORG <TABLE id=post472813 class=tborder2 border=0 cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=6 width="100%" align=center><TBODY><TR><TD style="FONT-WEIGHT: normal" class=thead post472813?> April 23rd, 2007 </TD><TD style="FONT-WEIGHT: normal" class=thead align=right> #1 </TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD width=175><!-- google_ad_section_start(weight=ignore) -->BCA42496<!-- google_ad_section_end --> Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 24 </TD><TD id=td_post_472813 class=alt3><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Changing a rear main seal on a 1950 straight 8<!-- google_ad_section_end --> <HR SIZE=1><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I am sure that this has been posted but I can not find it, is there any advise or tips on changing a leaking rear main seal on my 70 series straight 8? I have tried it once and have had no luck. I used a "Best Gaskets" product and wondering if this is the best product to buy or are there others that are better? Any advise on installation would be great as this procedure is no fun. Thanks, Kirk<!-- google_ad_section_end --> </TD></TR><TR><TD> </TD><TD class=alt3 align=right> </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE> <TABLE id=post472814 class=tborder2 border=0 cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=6 width="100%" align=center><TBODY><TR><TD style="FONT-WEIGHT: normal" class=thead post472814?> April 24th, 2007 </TD><TD style="FONT-WEIGHT: normal" class=thead align=right> #2 </TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD width=175><!-- google_ad_section_start(weight=ignore) -->Dynaflash8<!-- google_ad_section_end --> Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Sebring, FL USA Posts: 1,438 </TD><TD id=td_post_472814 class=alt3><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Re: Changing a rear main seal on a 1950 straight 8<!-- google_ad_section_end --> <HR SIZE=1><!-- google_ad_section_start -->It takes a two-piece rope seal. The upper one is difficult to replace in the car. I have had that done by a mechanic who used what is called a "chinese finger" and it worked. You slide it in and it catches the old seal and pulls it out, and then you go in from the other side, pick up the new one and pull it in. Another mechanic I know says that pulls the new seal too hard, stretches it and it doesn't hold as well. He recommends dropping the rear main cap or maybe several of them to drop the crankshaft lower and that's where I forget how he gets the new seal in. There are also two verticle cork gaskets in the cap itself. Newer cars use a different material than cork, and according to the Buick parts book those go all the way back to 1931. Either way, it's an awful job to do with the engine in the car. I need to find somebody willing to try it on a couple of my cars myself. Nobody is raising their hand.<!-- google_ad_section_end --> __________________ <!-- google_ad_section_start(weight=ignore) -->1939 Buick 41 sidemounted sedan with leather interior 1939 Buick 41C phaeton with skirts 1939 Buick 46C conv coupe with skirts 1941 Buick 71C phaeton with skirts 1969 Buick Electra 225 convertible 1971 Buick Riviera<!-- google_ad_section_end --> </TD></TR><TR><TD> </TD><TD class=alt3 align=right> </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE> <TABLE id=post472815 class=tborder2 border=0 cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=6 width="100%" align=center><TBODY><TR><TD style="FONT-WEIGHT: normal" class=thead post472815?> April 26th, 2007 </TD><TD style="FONT-WEIGHT: normal" class=thead align=right> #3 </TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD width=175><!-- google_ad_section_start(weight=ignore) -->RocketDude<!-- google_ad_section_end --> Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: So California Posts: 440 </TD><TD id=td_post_472815 class=alt3><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Re: Changing a rear main seal on a 1950 straight 8<!-- google_ad_section_end --> <HR SIZE=1><!-- google_ad_section_start -->You shouldn't have to touch any other main caps. The tool is called a "Sneaky Pete", and works on the principal of Chinese fingers, as DF8 mentioned . Available at most parts stores. The kit comes with a rod about 6-8" long, with one end screw threaded, the other end has a ring on it. Screw the threaded end into the old rope seal, and pull the seal out. Once enough is exposed, grab it with pliers. The secret is slowly turning the crankshaft as you pull on the seal. Same going back in. Grease the seal up good, latch on to it with the Sneaky Pete, and pull it slowly as you turn the crank. When you get it into position, cut it off a hair past flush. On the bottom seal, lay the seal in the groove, and I take a large socket and seat the seal in the groove. Cut that seal off, again, just a little past flush. You want enough sticking out so the seal ends crush together. I put just a drop of sealant on the seal ends, just to make sure there is no way oil can seep where the ends meet. Like DynaFlash8 said, make sure you don't leave the little cock seals out, unless you enjoy laying under there with oil dripping in your eyes... At best, it can be a nasty job. You mentioned BestGasket. Do they make a neopreme replacement like they do for the Olds rear seals? If they do, go for that one. They are far superior to rope. However, if a replacement isn't available, the rope seals work fine if installed properly. Good luck<!-- google_ad_section_end --> </TD></TR><TR><TD> </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
I have one of the "chinese handcuff" rear seal remover/installer that I no longer need 'cause I'm old...$20 and $5 for shipping in lower 48. I have used it and it works. Sorry if this is off topic. Frank
While I never owned it my grand father had a '40 Century inline 8 with dual carbs., and a factory split exhaust manifold. In the kate '40's my dad had me help him to pull the oil pan. Man, what a chore! When we did replace the pan the gasket started weeping within a day of two (about 6 hours of running time) We pulled it again, glued the gasket in place in the pan and then put it back. No leaks after that. It was still running strong in 1986 when it was sold to another Buick collector. Normbc9
Use Permatex Hi-tack for the pan gaskets. That stuff is really tacky, but is also pliable to allow movement of gaskets for bolt alignment. But don't spill it, especially on your hair, that is unless you like being a dark redhead! (No, I didn't do that, but a dumb friend of mine did that when he changed his rear main on his 62 Chevy 327.)
So if I put that stuff in my hair I could have the ultimate Pompadour and score some sweet action with all the pork-a-billie girls?
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