Projects Big daddy's 1960 El Camino

heres the way I done mine. The only thing the light or diode does is help with a back feed, to prevent a run on condition. i think. I am sure someone here with alot more wiring experiance will chime in.

 

When I changed to an Alternator in my ‘42, I ran one wire to a bulb, bulb would light when the key was on, start the engine, let it warm up a bit then get it to about 1000/1200 RPMs light would go off and the alternator was charging.
I think I found the diagram on madelectrical.com.

 

Sound's like he changed it from a 1 wire back to how GM did it. If so?, (call your buddy to verify) it'll be fine. If it is, after your trip add the 3rd wire needed so it start's charging as soon as you start the vehicle.

 

The one wire system is shit in my opinion, it's always "excited" so it's a slow drain on the battery, GM never used one set up that way, it was made for some marine and forklift applications I think.

I have the one like you show there and I run it through an isolated light bulb to the ignition switch, it's a 2 wire plastic bulb socket so it can't ground to anything. Turn the ignition on, bulb lights up, that means it's got signal. Start the engine and get a few RPMs going, bulb goes out, now I know it's charging.

I've always been told not to run it without the bulb. I'm no expert so I don't know exactly why, but it's really nice having that bulb anyway, I want to know the ignition switch is sending it's signal and I want to know it's charging when the bulb goes out. For one extra wire, it seems well worth the effort.

 

I believe leaving the exciter wire off just makes the alternator become a self energizing style. Like a 1 wire, but with the external voltage sensing jumper. It might take more rpm to self excite, but once charging it will be fine for your trip. The exciter just gets it charging soon as it is turning, doesn't effect the charging output.

 

Just don’t use a led type of light it will never charge. Use only an incandescent type 2 wire socket and bulb. Something about needing some resistance.

 

My buddy is gone on vacation. I've seen this setup on a lot of cars and figured somebody here has done it this way also.

 

It's working without the wire, I didn't know if it would go crazy and overcharge or some shit lol. Soon as I start the car and tap the gas pedal it goes to 14V. When Terry gets back and opens up I'll see if he can fix this other one though. He mentioned switching it to the CS130.

 

14v at 900rpm.

 

Loving this old car

 

You gotta do something about that white fuel gauge. If your sender is compatible with a SW one, I’ve a two inch gauge I can send you.

 

Lmao! I got the moon gauges from scotty, I could've sworn they were white face when I ordered the gas gauge! I'll get one later. I'd love to find a moon gauge 0-90 ohm.

 

The car needs a velocity stack!

 

It's looking good, I think your gonna make it! HRP

 

Please please please! it's yours for the taking.

 

to my knowledge 14 wont hurt a thing

 

Love that stance brother

 

I guess what I'm trying to say is if it's charging, what's the point of the other wire? Every diagram i see says it has to go to a dummy light or somewhere before it'll work?

 

It does more than say hey dummy your running on your battery. But to really get you thinking. Technically the wire from the battery terminal to #2 terminal as you have isn't the correct way of doing it. #2 terminal is so the alternator can sense the entire electrical system's voltage. That wire should "technically" be near the fuse box or ignition switch's hot lead.

 

Hey Lloyd you could use the volt gauge in place of the idiot light. Just switch the wires around. And it only costs you a few minutes time and a couple of wire connectors.

 

The wire is to energize the altenator as soon as you turn the key with out it it has to spinn fast enough to energize its self. If you car starts like mine you will spin it fast enough as soon as it starts to never notice the differnce. the one on my dads ih has been like that for 20 years or so

 

How many volts when you turn on the lights with it running?

 

14 Volts and your charging and the alternator is working like it should. HRP

 

With the electric fan running and the headlights on its still 14 at idle. It drops down to around 13 when I turn the fans on, but it goes right back to 14.

 

That's the first time I've seen a velocity stack with an inbuilt subwoofer

Cheers,
Harv

 

That poor dog breaks my heart. Having to walk around with a cone on like that!

 

please remove that driver's side inner headlite bulb...thanks

 

Took it out for a test, probably 2 miles, breaking up around 3 grand, stopped and retarded the timing a bit, didn't break up after that. But it's dropping the nose now when it gets toward 4000 rpm, I didn't check the float level in the primary after I took the bowl off and cleaned everything out, I'm suspecting it's running out of gas. Transmission shifts out great and everything else seems to be fine.

 

What do expect with that junky ass Tunnel Ram on it ,,,,,,no wonder it falls over at 4 grand .
Lol,,,,,,just kidding !
I love tunnel rams ,,,,and I have found that a tunnel Ram will suck the carbs dry at upper rpm .
You must have the pressure,, and fuel volume up in the rpm .
3500-4000 is close to that limit,,,,it will nose over just like you turned the switch off .
Of course,,,,I had two 750’s,,,on a 440,,,,,but it’s still the same general idea .

Tommy