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Projects Best frame for a 32 highboy build?

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Mickey Parson, Aug 7, 2015.

  1. 1965Shelby
    Joined: Aug 6, 2015
    Posts: 19

    1965Shelby

    Hello all, I am also trying to get input on what is a good choice for a frame for a 32 5 window, highboy build, similar to the picture. I have looked at socal, Pete and Jakes, Walden bros. I kind of like the coil spring rear end rather than buggy suspension. Also I am not sure about how much a pinch weld changes the frame and what modifications are needed to offset it. I want to use a stock 32 steel grill, also a flathead with a T5, 5 speed trans. So based on the looks of a car like this, what is the best frame? Also I like the hairpins with one bolt in the rear so that is a priority for the frame choice!

    Thanks for the input!
     

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  2. Jimmy2car
    Joined: Nov 26, 2003
    Posts: 1,707

    Jimmy2car
    Member
    from No. Cal

    An original Ford frame would be best
     
  3. big duece
    Joined: Jul 28, 2008
    Posts: 5,730

    big duece
    Member
    from kansas

    The buggy spring will be your best riding spring for the rear. I wouldn't use coil springs or coil overs. Check with Gary at Cornhuskers in Nebraska, he can build any frame combo for '32. Does tons with T5/flathead. http://cornhuskerrodandcustom.net/pages/Home.aspx
     
    ffej likes this.
  4. The one in the picture is a stock frame and suspension.

    You've looked at SoCal, P&J plus look at Cornhusker...and if you're not happy with what they can do as a roller, you'll need someone to do a modified original chassis (and by that I'm also referring to all the suspension just to be clear.)

    For example, look at Ryan's threads and get these guys to do it:
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-randy-cannarozzi-29.973427/
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-john-mearns-32-coupe.981885/
     
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  5. I have a 32 Henry cabriolet with a Speedway frame and rear coil overs,split wishbone front,flathead with t 5, highboy almost ready for the road.I like the boxed in areas of the frame and the open areas for the transmission to pass thru.I sold the stock frame( decent shape) to a HAMB member from Louisiana as the steel body was already situated on the Speedway frame. I am completely satisfied with the Speedway frame.
     
  6. Gary builds a nice frame,I too suggest the buggy spring rear,after all your asking these questions on a traditional hot rod site not a street rod forum. HRP
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  7. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 10,445

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    No offense intended but you sound a little out of your normal territory.

    But to answer I would use who ever is closest to you and run a buggy spring front and back. They are probably all pretty close quality wise but if they are close you can just pick it up, support someone local, and have ease of customer service in person.

    And I think what your seeing is not a pinch welded frame but a frame that has been "pinched"

    A frame that has been pinched is for under a model A not a 32. they pinch it at the cowl to make it line up with the narrower model A body
     
    Mitchell de Moor likes this.
  8. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 12,919

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    Pinching a frame for 32s is quite common, three quarter inch per side usually.
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  9. porknbeaner
    Joined: Sep 12, 2003
    Posts: 41,391

    porknbeaner
    Member

    Jimmy its just a waste of bandwidth.
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2015
    Mitchell de Moor likes this.
  10. Deuced Up!
    Joined: Feb 8, 2008
    Posts: 3,568

    Deuced Up!
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Hot Shoe Hot Rods (They bought LRS - Thank goodness). Very nice chassis.
    www.hotshoehotrods.com Chad will take really good care of you!
     
  11. Socal calls their hiboy frames that have been narrowed at the front cross member "pinched" as well. I think they do specify in the text though.
     
  12. Welcome to the HAMB.

    I used a stock like repop frame on mine. Boxed, buggy spring, split A bones. Banjo rear with modified radius rods. T5 with flathead. No need to pinch the frame.
    Wanted mine on the traditional side. Snicker at the chromed up street rod guys...

    Keep us posted on your progress...
     
  13. 1965Shelby
    Joined: Aug 6, 2015
    Posts: 19

    1965Shelby

    Thanks but I got the difference, most guys, not saying all or generalizing, but most guys on street rod forums don't or haven't built their rods, at least I haven't met and nor gotten any specific info other than the standard obvious stuff "It's a steel body with bored sixty over chev 350 and an original frame" etc, I have to laugh, it's like the Ford vs Chevy wars. But there are some with very good knowledge.

    Anyway I am just learning a different school of building thought and method, I appreciate guys who can build a car without buying anything new or reproduced parts and doing all the work and building a project on their own with what they have, gather or bought from someone who didn't need something anymore. Cool stuff!
     
  14. 1965Shelby
    Joined: Aug 6, 2015
    Posts: 19

    1965Shelby

    Thanks, that is exactly what I was looking for, guys that know how to put a flathead and a T5 with no surprises. I am sure about the final ride height, I guess I will have to check out cars that are done and how much drop they went.
     
  15. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 5,028

    -Brent-
    Member

    I want to know about the car/set-up... That's the height I want to run my chassis. Any pics of it from other angles?
     
  16. 1965Shelby
    Joined: Aug 6, 2015
    Posts: 19

    1965Shelby

    Thanks for reminding me, I forgot about the Banjo rather than a quick change, it seems like I have seen ones with modern gears or something. I will dig into that!
     
  17. My vote is for going with a cornhusker frame from Gary.....
     
  18. Mickey,
    Since you seem to be going down that road, you get a copy of the Tardell/Bishop "How to" book?
    Very Helpful I think.....
     
  19. GregF
    Joined: Sep 23, 2009
    Posts: 27

    GregF
    Member

    Mickey: I'm late to the party but where are you located? Shipping a frame isn't cheap and you wouldn't want to get a less than optimal frame for your build but I would try to stay fairly local.
     
  20. Shamus
    Joined: Jul 20, 2005
    Posts: 1,130

    Shamus
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NC

    This is the Cornhusker chasis under my '34 Roadster - set up for a flathead & 5 speed - less wheels, tires & powdewr coat. It drives & handles excellent. Gary Mussman is the man for a flathead/T-5 chasis. U won't regret it (& the price is right).



    IMG_0023.JPG IMG_0023.JPG
     
  21. porknbeaner
    Joined: Sep 12, 2003
    Posts: 41,391

    porknbeaner
    Member

    You may have seen a quicky with modern gears not likely a banjo. You can modify a banjo to accept a 9" ford axle and axle bearing though.

    Most of the old original stuff is old original stuff. Some of it is good and some is not. it takes a while to know what to use and what not to use and it is not going to be covered in one thread. A wise young builder develops questions based on specifics and then asks those questions. Its not like when I was young you either figured it out for yourself or found an old guy to take you under his wing.
     
  22. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 12,919

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    There is an aluminum non quickchange banjo that's pretty neat, not positive, but it might have been a Winters unit.
     
  23. porknbeaner
    Joined: Sep 12, 2003
    Posts: 41,391

    porknbeaner
    Member

    Yep its the one that the roundy round guys use and they use a modern carrier or a spool. pretty tough unit a little overkill for a flatty though. flamedabone has one in his 10 second street A sedan.
     

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