Projects Beginning my 1928 chevy speedster

I'm in the middle of a similar project.
Love the Jag six.
Subscribed.

 

I'm enjoying this thread, too. Just put lever shocks all around on my Model A speedster, MGB rears on the front, MG TD rears on the back. Mismatched because I already had one pair, found a deal on the other pair. I don't think they look too out of place, and they do work well. Not nearly as attractive as friction shocks, though. I like Stueee's idea of hiding them inside, but it was so easy just using the stock holes in the frame, and the stock studs on the axles. Only had to buy the shock-arm studs and dogbones to make it work. Of course, yours is a Chevy frame, so all of that might be moot.

Sorry to ramble. Back to your car.

 

Always looking to watch another vintage Chevy project!

 

For the most effective operation, or to allow "softest" ride settings consistent with good handling, connection of the shocks (and springs) to the axle should be close as practical to the wheel. So, best to use lever shocks, with levers extended outwards. To contemplate this, using an extreme comparison, think of how effective shocks/springs would be if rights and lefts were connected adjacent to each other, in the middle of the axle. (I know, sometimes compromises must be made, for aesthetics!)

A related question -- from what you've said about the government engineering approval agency, I can't imagine you're allowed to attach weldments to the axle on which to connect springs and shocks. How do you contemplate doing this? (I thought regulations were getting tough in the USA, but maybe not compared to your draconian legislators. I'm also puzzled about their consistency; you can't have wheel adapters or 4.5" width wheels, but its OK to have wheels cut, and weld in a 1/2" wide band!?!?)

 

Found and subscribed. I look foward to reading through your progress!
Cheers,
Josh

 

Not at all, please do ramble, it adds to everyones knowledge and inspiration. It sounds like things worked out well for you by using stock mounting holes in the Model A. I look foward to looking it up.
My frame had no shocks period. I dont know if this was the norm or someone had removed them, the car had been robbed of a few parts.
I know my grandfathers 32 has lever shocks tucked inside the frame so if the 28 didnt have them, they weren't far away.

Mounting locations will all be customised as the diffs late model and the axle is SoCal so there's no pre determined brackets to use.
Cheers,
Josh

 

Nice to have you on board!
Cheers,
Josh

 

Good knowledge to be had from your second sad story. Ive never been one to snip the cotter pins however note to self to double check the oil pump!

In regards to our hot rod legislation heres our guidelines if theres any interest in plowing through it.
https://www.infrastructure.gov.au/vehicles/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/street_rod.aspx

We can weld brackets to the new axle, as long as a qualified welder performs the task. I suppose being a drilled axle I could possibly run a bracket/ spring perch bolted through one of the holes also.
In regards to the wheels we have companies that will widen wheels by welding in bands but no, thats not allowed either. The gentleman I found makes a complete new outer band.

They like to make things hard in Australia in regards to vehicle modification, and some of its reasonable and really in place to stop guys making unsafe modifications that could put the safety of themselves or others at risk. And some of its rediculous. Like I must run hydraulic brakes and a collapsible steering column. Never mind a 28 chev had mechanical brakes and non collapsible column and I can register it as a vintage car and drive it, but if I lowered it, removed the hood and called it a hot rod, no dice. So some of it makes no sense to me.
Still, some countries you cannot build a hot rod or modified car, period, so we're lucky in that aspect.
Cheers,
Josh

 

Just read an alarming post on another forum about the Jaguar cooling system. Apparently the thermostats prevent any flow until the coolant in the block gets to near full temperature, and then opens quickly, dumping what could be 0 F coolant into one side of the block. Resultant thermal shock has often resulted in blocks cracking. One recommendation was to have a small by-pass around the thermostat so all the coolant would be brought up to temperature more uniformly, even though it would take longer for the warmup process.

I didn't know this, but apparently the 3.8 did have dry sleeves (3.4 didn't). I do have recollection of later Jag engines having cylinders so close that there were some slots milled between cylinders in the water jackets. Whether anyone cleans these as normal rebuild procedure, I don't know. I have an acquaintance that would probably know, will probably see him if the vintage racing season ever starts, and pick his brains. Do you have any urgency for this info? I could try to contact him sooner.

Confused about your carburetion. Your post implies triples cost is prohibitive. Photo you posted seems to show triple SUs; is that not what you have?

Was engine from an automatic? Did you get a standard shift bell housing, flywheel and clutch? Too bad you don't live down the street, I probably have spares of this stuff. Or, I could have given you a great deal on a surplus 1931 Buick (first year straight eight) that's hogging valuable space in my storage facility.

If your using a T5, you will eventually need to procure an adapter. Keep me posted if you find a reasonably priced one, or a machine shop to make one. I need the same thing for my project. I think it's just a thick, flat plate. Was wandering if it's feasible to take the bell housing from an automatic, cut the back off as necessary, and weld an aluminum plate/T5 adaptor on the back; would then need to use hydraulic throughout bearing.

To answer your question, my 2-speed quick change gearbox is a standard shift. Low for leaving the pits, high for racing. Pictures attached. Note that the counter shaft is above the input/output shafts; maybe to allow for lowest possible location of dry-sumped engine? Cutaway view shows where the QC gears go, but the gears are not shown. These were made by Doug Nash/Richmond Gear, but some British company took over manufacture 15-20 years ago.

 

I had read stories about the thermal shock and figured I would drill the thermostat. I figure the engines are probably at greater risk in really cold climates like the U.K or Europe or North America and Canada then here in Queensland where its rarely cold. Still, even cool water on hot engine may not end well.

As for the information on the sleeves, no Im not in a huge rush. However as Im waiting on parts for the chassis, the brakes and engine pull down are keeping me occupied. If I can get them sorted and ready for the rest of the car to come along it's a challenge I dont have to have later. The engine overall Im only looking to freshen up. Bearings all look almost perfect, hoping to just get away with doing the bores, timing chains, head recondition and seals/ gaskets. Rod bearings are at 10 thou so I dont know if this was factory or the engines had a crank recondition at some point. Considering the lip on the bores and original pistons its seemingly never had a full recondition by any means.

Sorry if there was confusion in regards to carburetion. I specifically wanted triples and my point was I looked hard to find an engine that had them already as the cost of buying triple carbs and manifold alone was quite high. So yes I have triple SUs.

Unfortunately the 3.8 was an automatic engine from a mk10 with flex plate and converter still attached. So I need to find everything to suit manual conversion. Im still to do some research on exactly what I need. I understand flywheel, clutch etc but off of what and what can be adapted Im yet to learn. As far as T5 adaptors go the ones Ive seen are pushing up to nearly $1000 Australian. Anything Jaguar related just seems to have a high price tag here. Even engine rebuilds seem to cost double that of a basic v8 rebuild, go figure why, theyre no more complex really and 2 less cylinders, 4 less valves.

Its funny you say about the the buick straight 8, that was my first engine choice but could not find one. Im excited for the Jag 6 now however, they make quite a sweet sound with well set up pipes and they're no slug.

Thanks for sharing the 2 speed. Im familiar with some of the Richmond gear but have never seen anything like it before either.

Cheers,
Josh

 

Re the high cost of a Jag rebuild: Isn't the head labor intensive to set the valve lash? I think it has a non-hydraulic cam requiring multiple assembly /disassembly to get the tappet clearances right.

Many years back my bud had an XK-120 basket case - but complete - drop head coupe he offered to me for $1200. Shoulda woulda coulda got it. But passed.

 

Yes that's true but just a bottom end rebuild seems to start around $8000 Australian. Hence I will walk the job through a couple of friends who are engine rebuilders and machinists.
Cheers,
Josh

 

Here's a stocker that might help for some inspiration or ?
When I was a kid in LA, I watched this car being created and rode in it many times. It was built by a guy named George Templeton who lived near Long Beach, CA. When everyone else in the Long Beach area was building Model T speedsters, George was building 20s Chevy speedsters. He was an amazing creator and craftsman. He was great to be around, but got angry whenever the four letter, F-word was mentioned (Ford).

https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/chevrolet/unspecified/2384318.html

 

That is a really nice boattail GZ!
And '25 is the "magic block" that has a bellhousing, but doesn't have the hole through the center web for the distributor.

 

Skinner unions on a blower Bentley circa 1931.

 

Just noted the fender detail revited stiffener piece.

 

Josh--

You might enjoy these. Note all the quarter elliptics in the first video (but mostly with straight axle):








Also, I noted in the British magazine "Magneto" that there is an enormous 40th Anniversery motoring event, "Bay to Birdwood", in Glandore. Is that something you'll attend, or too far away?

 

Thanks for sharing, what an awesome T!
Cheers, Josh

 

Thanks for the videos! What a collection of cars. And quarter ellipticals, I knew they were reasonably common but wow.

Speaking of which, the shipping came in from California! And I picked these up today.


Cheers,
Josh

 

I'm in, looking to see more detail how you handle the quarter elliptics.

 

So am I! Still trying to work out how to mount everything and be able to adjust castor.
Cheers,
Josh

 

Why do you need eight quarter eliptics?

 

I’m hooked! Like the direction.


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

One over the other for each corner, Frenchtown

 

OK, I see. So you won't need any control arms.

 

Got quarter eliptic set up in my 60 AH bug-eye. Springs mount into a pocket in the subframe. There is an unsprung control arm as the upper locating assembly. There was also a panhard rod but I believe it was added when the car was modified for hill climb competition. Pretty simple and effective.

 

Mac got it.
Ideally no control arms. My understanding is there is almost 0 deflection in the quad quarter elliptical setup, they completely locate the axle.
There is a lot of discouragement for the quad setup, not running panhard bars or control arms and just the function of them in general. My big reason for using this setup is purely for asthetics and it allows people to see something that has been a little bit lost to history.

Writing this post though and talking about control arms has given me an idea. I needed to work out how to adjust castor. I can run a threaded tube on the axle or frame as you would have on an adjustable control arm and mount the spring off that.

Cheers,
Josh

 

mk 1 sprite uses lower spring and upper located plus lever shock. Very light weight though.

 

saw you question about marrying a t-5 to Jag 6 cyl. try this site https://www.5speeds.com/modbell.html
Shows they were selling a new cast bellhousing for this setup for right around $600 in 2006. Don't know if still available but i'm trying to get me some bucks together as I want to do the same.
Mike

 

Thanks for the info! Getting a bellhousing and sourcing everything else would be the way to go. Its good dollars for their full conversion kit!
Cheers,
Josh