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Projects Before start up questions

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 46poncho, May 17, 2020.

  1. 46poncho
    Joined: May 24, 2009
    Posts: 248

    46poncho
    Member
    from Indiana

    I am getting my engine close to its first start. I am GB oing to soak my lifters in oil, how long should I soak them?
    How long will an oil pump hold a prime???

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  2. brokedownbiker
    Joined: Jun 7, 2016
    Posts: 620

    brokedownbiker
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    My (limited) opinion-
    I've always primed the oil pump and just prior to the start-up. Two methods- One, use an oil pump tool and a drill to spin the pump until you have pressure on the gauge and oil to the rockers. Two, turning the engine over without the coil wire attached until oil gets up to the rocker arms to get oil everywhere and see pressure rising on the gauge. Number one is by far the better method. Then install the distributor, time it and fire it up
    Lifters? I've gone as long as a day or two between soaking lifters and start-up, never had a problem.

    There are a lot of older wiser folks here, give it awhile and you will get more opinions.
     
    46poncho likes this.
  3. I guess I’m different, I’ve never “soaked” lifters. I use moly cam lube on the bottom and engine oil in the bores. No problems ever.


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    egads and 46poncho like this.
  4. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 1,866

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas

    Put the lifters, hydraulic style, in a can of oil, take a old push rod and work the lifter while submerged in oil. It will fill the lifter and ready to install in minutes instead of days.

    And while I'm at it with adjustable valve train, I install lifters, install valve train. Then once installed I rotate cam until lifters on bottom of cam lobe. Take a small paper clip and bend into a small "L"

    I tighten down the preload until I can just fit that small paper clip between plunger and snap ring in lifter. Gives a .015 clearance. Then I lock the preload and move to the next. I've done every engine I've built it the last 40 years this way and never had to adjust valve lash or lifter noise ever.

    In fact last one I did 5 yrs ago (sbc) the owner bet me 20 bucks it wouldn't work. I made an extra 20 on that job.

    It gives almost zero back lash which gives a smoother idle, less chance of lifter float, lifter bind etc.
     

  5. Gasoline Junkie
    Joined: Nov 20, 2010
    Posts: 334

    Gasoline Junkie
    Member

  6. 51504bat
    Joined: May 22, 2010
    Posts: 3,175

    51504bat
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    On the few engines I've built I've used a pressure tank to get oil pressure prior to starting. On a 289 I borrowed a pressure tank that the automotive machinist made from on old pressurized brake bleeder tank. Dumped the oil into the tank and connected it. Put 50 pounds pressure to the tank and all was good. On the flathead I did a couple of years ago I used an old paint pressure pot. Same result. Or you can use a cheap plastic garden sprayer and get the same thing.
     
    Boneyard51 likes this.
  7. Boneyard51
    Joined: Dec 10, 2017
    Posts: 5,361

    Boneyard51
    Member

    Making a little pressure/vacuum tank like that is a mighty handy thing to have around the shop. You just mentioned pressurizing a new engine with it. With a little modification you can draw a vacuum on it with your A/c evacuator and remove fluids from things like power steering pumps, small gas tanks, master cylinders, etc. I used one all the time when I had my commercial shop!








    Bones
     
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