Ok guys here is a topic that is brought up quite a bit as far as Lizard Skin and bed liner but I didn't find anything here that compares the two... I have a 1963 Chevy II Wagon than I have been striping the interior out of the past few days and am almost ready to start shooting the interior with some kind of insulation and sound deadener on the floor, firewall, inside the doors, inside the tailgate, inside the roof, underneath the car and fenders, etc. Pretty much I want to rust proof it at the same time so 10 years down the road I dont have rust problems and also make it nice and quiet inside. Anyways I have been reading about using ceramic micro spheres added to some kind of paint or latex paint and make my own Lizard Skin type material for cheap and it is supposed to be great for sound deadening and insulating. Another route I am thinking of is cleaning the metal the best I can inside and underneath the car, shoot it with Southern Polyurethanes Epoxy primer and then use SPI's bedliner kit and do the entire inside and underneath. What do you guys think is better and will hold back rust or keep what is there from spreading? I dont have the money to sand blast the inside and underside. The inside is ONLY surface rust, no scale or anything. I plan to sand it the best I can but not actually get rid of the black stained metal from the rust. Any ideas, suggestions and oppinions are greatly appreciated! Thanks!
IMHO, the lizad skin will give a better sound deadner. Use it alnog with some sort of dyamat type stuff. Guy i know shoots the lizard on then dynamat on top of that. has the coolest car around in the summer.
I can't speak to rust but I can hmls. It'll take the tinnyness out of the car, and if you can tell me how to perform a valid test I'll let you know the results as far as heat. It does appear to have insulation value, but it sure isn't a/c. Like right now my door is almost too hot to touch on the outside but fine on the inside. Does that prove anything? I dunno.
Thanks for the info guys... What I may do is use the lizard skin alternative to the inside but outside under the car I will use bed liner. Also I saw on another forums somewhere that you can get the foam with aluminum liner at Home Depot and it actually works great and results have been a 10 degree change inside the cab along with the lizard skin. 10 degrees is quite a bit if you think about it and plus with A/C the car will cool quicker in the summer. Here are a few links that I "thought" I posted but obviously forgot to. http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/alternative-lizard-skin-103610.html http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Ceramic_insulation
Isn't bed liner flammable...??? Lizardskin isn't...read this story: http://www.lizardskin.com/pages/testimonials4.php R-
Take a look at this thread. more on insulation The simplest thing I can add is that the insulation that lobucrod sells is pretty darn good stuff, and not expensive. Joe
Lizard skin is an excellent product and works very well for temp and sound insulation. But if you are looking for something a little less expensive check out Cool Car Ceramic from CoolCarCeramic.com. The stuff works as well as Lizard Skin and is a similar product. It was on the market before Lizard Skin and is a one step application (sound dampening and temp control in one application) whereas Lizard Skin has a application for temp control and a second for sound dampening. Worth a look.
BTW, SPI bedliner is different material than Line X or Ryno... It is Polyurea (not sure of spelling but that is how it sounds when said) and has some kind of UV protection and other additives in it. From reviews it's good stuff but I am thinking about maybe just using it on the outside bottom of the car and under the fenders instead and then use the microspheres in the latex paint to do the inside with some foam and aluminum faced foam insulation from Home Depot that supposedly doesn't trap moisture or anything because it's a closed cell Vinyl foam, which means it won't absorb water. Has an R-3 rating and is rated up to 190 degrees as well. It comes in a 12" by 15 foot roll at $15. Not only am I looking for insulation and quietness but rostproofing and holding back rust from spreading...
Mopar thanks for that link I am checking it out now as I write this... Also I found Metal Sheild that NASA uses, seems to do both insulate, sound deaden AND even rust proofing! Just what I need and lots of it too. Not sure if I will still try to make my own or just buy the stuff and pay hazard, freight, etc on it and spend probably double the money but save me the trouble...???
I wrote an insulation tech but haven't completed it. I've done extensive research on lowbuck alternatives. Just a few tips: hmls burns, I've ignited it welding many times, but it's not like a wildfire. To get the credit card size thickness lskin requires many coats, I'm talking 6 or more. Call mr lskin and ask, he's super nice You can spray hmls with a $30 eBay undercoat gun, and it worked as well as the custom $140 gun, and that is custom, so he says. I believe him. I was a skeptic, but lobucrods INS is fantastic. eBay bubble wrap sucks, so does home depot bubble wrap I've used aviation and NASA mivrospheres, please it's just glass The easiest way to do hmls is *not* mixing your own. There's this ultra light stuff you order from lowes online and they deliver to the store, $100 for 5 gal iirc. I got a million other things but that's the lowlights. Best of luck Edit; nothing beats old fashioned jute for sound insulation. Got it roof and floor. Quiet as a church.
If you want Lizard Skin ... Charlotte Rod and Custom is a dealer has it in stock ... he is who I bought my Lizard Skin from. He is here ... http://charlotterod.com/ I also have it on the firewall, floor, 1/4 panels, and the roof ...
Looks great man! I dont know if I will do the Lizard Skin, only reason why is because everyone I have talked to online that said they have done it or know someone who has had it done said the price was not worth it and that they would have achieved the same results or results slightly lower with the alternative home made LS and jute matting. That is the only reason I didn't buy the stuff. Some said they didn't tell a difference at all with the insulating part of it but it did a great job at sound deadening it. I'm looking for something that seals rust and water from further rust, and sound proofing. I still plan to jute mat the roof, floor, firewall and quarter panels...
I cannot tell you how well it really does because my 32 3W is not yet on the road with the A/C working ... yet. I am also covering most everything with DynaMat ... I have $255 in Lizard Skin and about the same in DynaMat. I want the coupe to be cool in the summer and warm in the winter. Quiet inside also. So I figured 5 hundred dollars or so is a small amount to insure that ... We ALL know that BLACK cars are more difficult to cool ...
Lizard skin is great stuff for the interior. I used it for the underside of a floorpan once and its no good. It stains and traps roadgrime. I will never clean up like new again. I always epoxy prime, seamseal and sray the bottoms of the drivers we build with plasticized bedliner. It cleans up with soap and water and is very durable.
I painted the inside of the cab of my pick up with Lizard Skin and to honestly tell you that it helped I could not do. I insulated also with the Dyna Mat stuff in addition to that and I know in combination they work. The Lizard skin can be painted to match your car color. Later, Dick
Random thoughts... Bedliner isn't rust proofer and hasn't proven as durable as industry projections. If you want any kind of textured coating under the car to clean up nice, it'll need topcoated with a gloss finish. There's only so much you can do with sprays. After insulating a handful of O/Ts with "traditional" methods and attention to detail.......I think the hot rod market might be trying to make the entire sundae out of cherries. Personally I believe cutting out and replacing all the factor seam sealer, and applying seam sealer to previously unsealed seams....is probably the first step in all this. You'd be amazed at what $20 of seam sealer will do. Lotta guys seem to think spray sealers are a replacement but they're not. You'll never make a car without upholstery as comfortable as a car with upholstery. Heat insulation is all about isolating air pockets. If you're bending over backwards trying to keep the interior unfinished, might be time to rethink the entire game plan. You can fit a significant amount of insulation on a door panel without risking metal corrosion good luck to everyone
Thanks for the info and comments guys! My plan is to strip the inside of the car, clean up the floors, weld in my patch panels next weekend, strip all the old sealer out, use a nice two part seam sealer, SPI epoxy prime the inside of the floors, firewall, roof, inside the doors, inside tailgate, etc. I will then go over with the home made type microspheres and paint alternative to LS. As for the bottom, I will try to strip it the best I can and epoxy it then bed liner under it from SPI as well. I think this should work out great. Then I can Dynamat the inside or some kind of jute on the roof, in the doors and tailgate, etc. I am VERY picky about getting rid of rust in every single crevis that I can and then seal it off from ever comming back again if possible by priming and sealing every bit of sheetmetal I can inside and out. I think epoxy primer and bedliner under the fenders and inner fenderwells will work great too...
Deuce Roadster, do I remember corectly that you sprayed LZ under your 3 window, then top caoted it with paint? If so, what paint did you use. Joe
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