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Bare metal frame prepping for paint.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 56 ford custom, Apr 13, 2013.

  1. mikhett
    Joined: Jan 22, 2005
    Posts: 1,398

    mikhett
    Member
    from jackson nj

    I second what chopped olds said.Im not a ratlle can guy if your gonna restore a car learn how to use a spray gun. I sprayed my inner fenders and core support with epoxy primer after going down to bare metal.
     
  2. As for mixing I use 30 revolutions as a base guide to stirring or rattling. Dependent on actual make-up of product/ temperature/whatever factors- I may double to 60- hell, even 90 if I was painting with concrete!
    But generally 30 go- rounds with the stirring stick/ spoon or 30 rattles of the can- minimum. And scrape up from bottom as you go 'round on each revolution. Ideal temperature for product helps mixing too.
     
  3. Here's some although I repainted the wheels again.

    The frame is Rustoleum satin black and the red & cream is tractor paint thinned and shot with a gun.
     

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  4. Damn... Can't get the other pic's to load from my ipad. Let me try again from my desktop computer.
     

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  5. Try again...
     

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  6. I had a repro frame, so no rust issues. But cleaned and fine sanding of metal surfaces, shot Rustoleum satin black alone. No primer, thousands of fair weather miles, and eight years later it is doing very well.
     
  7. trbomax
    Joined: Apr 19, 2012
    Posts: 289

    trbomax
    Member

    The last time I refinished the frame on my 28 was when I first built it in '63.After I was done with the welding and modding I blasted it in my dads driveway with a old gravity feed blaster,went over the whole thing with a da for final spatter removal and hung it up in dads garage.I used a ditzler alkyd primer called "ferrochrome" ,todays equivilent would be rustoleum rusty metal primer. The color was Ditzler alkyd enamel,probably like rustoleum or the TSC stuff. It looks just fine today,50 yrs later. The disclamer is that it has always been garaged in a semi heated building.The point I'm makeing is that all the epoxy and self etching and acid spray isnt really needed if its just clean to start with.
     

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  8. What big chain stores will carry that chemical to clean and prep the frame for paint?
     
  9. 61 chevy
    Joined: Apr 11, 2007
    Posts: 891

    61 chevy
    Member

    does anybody use rattle can primer on body panel before painting ???
     
  10. Im sure you could, but I wouldnt suggest it
     
  11. 4rod
    Joined: Feb 4, 2008
    Posts: 806

    4rod
    Member

    I can't say eching primer is really for the frame...it takes such a beating especially being a daily driver...I've had success with POR-15, works great seals the frame and comes out smooth and in gloss if you want it...That said...epoxy is the best
     
  12. ago
    Joined: Oct 12, 2005
    Posts: 2,200

    ago
    Member
    from pgh. pa.

    I'm not an expert by any choice of the imagination, but everytime I use a spray gun I get amazed how nice it sprays compared to rattle can. Get a cheap HF gun and spray it.



    Ago
     
  13. I had used gloss port 15 Andorra wasn't very satisfied with it. Already had faded and it didn't stick well since I had cleaned the frame well before painting it. The frame is supposed to be rusty and dirty.
     
  14. 4rod
    Joined: Feb 4, 2008
    Posts: 806

    4rod
    Member

    Hmm, I've always cleaned to bare metal and found no issues with longevity, that said I also, use a heavy degreaser and then wash with water...here's my 50 I just finished...
    [​IMG]
     
  15. That's bare metal then por15?
     
  16. 4rod
    Joined: Feb 4, 2008
    Posts: 806

    4rod
    Member

    yes, minus the pitting I always clean down to bare metal...of course I can't get to all the knoocks and crannies ...only way to do that is dip or blast
     
  17. On the instructions it says no clean surfaces. I already had used it and it faded and didn't stay very well
     
  18. Also says in those instructions to top coat it ... Or .... Don't leave it exposed to sunlight. There is no UV protection in there.
     
  19. What do you coat it with
     
  20. You can coat it with just about anything meaning Any UV rated paint but you have to coat it within the window specified. It needs to be still tacky. A frame won't need it unless you stick it outside for weeks .
    You can also put their intermediate primer over the it within the window and then finish coat it anytime you want.

    If the metal is clean and shiny you need to put a metal prep on it.

    Just read all of the instructions on the whole can. It's all there.
     
  21. 4rod
    Joined: Feb 4, 2008
    Posts: 806

    4rod
    Member

    includes no moisture...as with any paint conditions need to be perfect...witch is hardly ever the case
     
  22. Ill have to decide what I want to shoot the frame with
     
  23. 48fordor
    Joined: Jan 16, 2009
    Posts: 137

    48fordor
    Member
    from York, PA

    In the early 1990's I helped a friend restore a 1979 Dodge 4x4 - OT vehicle but the paint info is useful. We started by wirebrushing the frame but it took forever so we sandblasted it. Brush painted with Eastwood's rust converting paint (called Corroless then I think) and then with their chassis black. It was a snowplow truck so it saw lots of bad weather and the frame showed some rust over time but overall it held up well. We were not overly concerned about brush marks but the black paint did flow out well and it looked very good. I'd do it again for anything but a show car.
     
  24. I had brushed on the por15 the first time and went on ok
     
  25. 53 COE
    Joined: Oct 8, 2011
    Posts: 688

    53 COE
    Member
    from PNW

    x2 on the Rust-Oleum.


    1) Treat with Ospho
    2) Roll or brush or spray Rust-Oleum Risty Metal Primer
    3) Roll or brush or spray Rust-Oleum black, gloss, semi-gloss or flat.

    :cool::cool:
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2013
  26. fortynut
    Joined: Jul 16, 2008
    Posts: 814

    fortynut
    Member

    Just a suggestion, but if you want a smooth surface using POR15, cut a roller into two pieces (or use a trim roller) and get a disposable liner for the pan. Presto chango: no brush marks. (DON'T SPRAY IT WITHOUT PROTECTION FOR YOUR LUNGS --- A RESPIRATOR IS MANDATORY) If you're trying to a achieve the 'stock factory look' mix flat black into regular black, as factory paint is not shiny, nor is it flat --- kinda in between, but more to the shiny side. In my opinion, there are two sides to painting frames. If you see it, work on like you would the body and try to make it super nice. If it's going to be hidden, be practical and understand the abuse it takes from the elements, including whatever crap that may be used by state highway departments for ice. POR15 is light sensitive and will deteriorate if exposed to UV rays. If it's seen paint over it. I think they offer their own paint for a covering coat, but like all things perfect, it costs. Krylon is wonderful for some stuff, and you don't have clean a paint gun. I always like to heat a pan of water and dunk the cans in it to increase the flow as it exits the nozzle. Not too hot, or it'll crackle later on, like old oil painting, and if you like the look you can make a paint job look old with a little experimenting and hot water. Otherwise warm is good, like mother's milk. My take on putting a primer coat on a frame is that when it chips, it looks cruddy because the contrasting color draws attention to the blemish. Most factory frames are painted with just black paint. Early Ford frames held up pretty darn well this way. I prefer Rustolem because it's not terribly expensive, can be had in quarts, flows well, and their rusty metal primer is hard to beat. In that vein, you can buy tractor paint in any color, and hardener from tractorpartsasap.com
     
  27. wood remover
    Joined: Dec 23, 2012
    Posts: 852

    wood remover
    Member

    The last frame I painted I used marine epoxy primer and marine urethane paint. Because steel boats are to big to fit in a spray booth ,both of the products are designed to be put on with a foam roller and foam brush.

    The epoxy primer was 60 bucks a quart and paint was 80 a quart for paint including activators. Goes on smooth ,no waste 2 coats of each still a little left probably could have done 4 coats of each.

    5 or 6 colors of primers and 15 colors of paint and OH YEAH no overspray.

    Put one coat of primer and 3 hours later did 2nd coat next day put one coat of paint and 3 hours later did 2 nd coat.

    Been 3-4 years now ,looks great still.

    I know the prices now as I am just getting my 34chev truck frame ready to paint and have just purchased the paint for it. Those are the prices quoted above.
     
  28. I bought a gallon of industrial rustoleum and hardener. Should I go back and buy some primer and shoot the frame with that first?
     
  29. 53 COE
    Joined: Oct 8, 2011
    Posts: 688

    53 COE
    Member
    from PNW

    Most def.... See my post #55 above....
     

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