Bangers ...March or die!

My scanner shit the bed so I drop kicked it out to the can
Here is a pic from my cell I can fax it to you Mon. If you can't read it
Drill @ 34 deg. On all journals on the A

B crank
2 center ones drill @ 34deg
2 out side drill @ 30deg

 

I am about to build an x or k member for a model a chassis while retaining rod brakes, I am running a overdrive on the front of a shortened torque tube has anyone any advise before I start.

 

What Transmission are you running as the reason for the K/X member ?

 

model a transmission with borgwarner overdrive. Overdrive will need support.

 

The motor is a B4 with a Rutherford (Gempsa) overhead conversion Winfield carbs its running a model a gearbox because I am using a Rutherford cast alloy sump made for when you use a model a gearbox behind the B The overdrive will help as will the quickchange yes I know a t5 is better but I am trying to keep the period look ,the body is a 27 RP which I have owned for over 40 years.

 

Sounds good ,,i like the stock look too ,does the O/D attach to trans?,,,,i am doing a late model all synchro 3 speed conversion with jeep shift to the T/Tube,thinking about a volvo O/D later on ,,

 

yes with shortened torque tube

 

Hello,

I am looking for a little advice. I have been slowly "hopping up" the engine in my '30 coupe, and all is going well. I'm just not sure what to do next. Here is a list of where I'm at currently:

-Counterbalanced "B" engine bored .030 over (Babbit)
-"B" Head shaved .060
-Holley 94 on an aluminum downdraft intake
-Model B Fuel Pump
-Lightened Flywheel with V8 Clutch
-FS ignition system
-Lake style header from Gear Drive
-3.54 gears in the rear

Everything else is pretty much stock. It runs great and I have noticed a huge improvment in driveability, but I know that I can get more out of it. I'm guessing that my next step is probably the camshaft, but would like to know if I am missing anything else that should be done first. Suggestions are welcomed.

Thanks,
Mitch

 

Mitch

Please be careful.......... the "more" you get out of it may be a rod hanging just outside the block

 

Bluto,

Thanks for the advice. That is the last thing that I want at this point.

-Mitch

 

Cam - Better Head- Over drive tranny - Bigger Valves
Don't for get to look for a spare engine

 

Need a little assistance from the banger group. I am building a 28 roadster and it is going to stay a 6 volt system. The fuel tank has been moved to the back and I am trying to find a 6 volt fuel gauge and sender. Does anyone know of a manufacture? I cant find anything by stewart warner or perhaps I am just not seeing it. No need to search around but I was just curious if anyone had done this before. Any help appreciated.

Jim

 

Jim look at the little pommy ford 8 and 10s this is the sort of thing they run.

 

i would consider the bill stipe cams ................ steve
electric fuel guages are plentiful .........

 

Bttt for Steve

 

LOL ... thank you ........... you guys are great !!

 

Then, if that's the last thing you want, the next item on your list should be a harmonic damper (especially if you are going to run it up to, and over, 3000 rpm). If you don't, it's not if, it's when you are going to break a crank. "Been there, done that!

 

On my 1931 Model A, I have a vintage Cragar OHV conversion sitting on a B block, Stromberg 97, 12V alternator, flamethrower coil, headers. Right now I have Motorcraft TT10 spark plugs installed. I do run my motor pretty hard revving to the top of each gear double-clutching along the way (stock A tranny & rear end).

What kind of spark plugs should I run on this setup? I would like to avoid using a 14mm conversion though.

Please send me a PM if you have a recommendation.

Thanks,

Mike Green

 

Are you concerned that the plugs are running to hot or cold?

What does the plug look like after it has run around town or on the freeway?

If they are clean you are good.
If they are black and sooty, or wet, then they may be too cold. You may be running too rich too.
If they are clean and the electrode is eroded, then you may be too hot. Or your fuel mixture is too lean.

You need this info before determining what direction to go with your plugs.

If we PM you with our thoughts, then nobody else gets the info the rest of us are looking for.

IMHO ... if you are only running one 97, then you aren't realizing the full potential of your set up.
I'm running 2 97's on a B flathead.

.
.

 

Remember to cut the motor off clean at max RPM .... and put the clutch in

If the motor continues to try to stumble and run YOUR IN TROUBLE!

If there are little black flecks(carbon) on the porcelain and just a little bit of glue boiling out around the center wire STOP. Your on kill!!!!

Take a couple degrees of timing out unless you've a really good plug reading guy around

Carry a couple new plugs to get you home and have someone that knows look at the plugs you cut clean on

One more thing Dopn't trust the comments of Drag racers unless that is the only thing you'll do with the car.

good luck

 

Now we know Bluto is working on a Hal which is hard to beat but who else has an interesting head or piece of equipment they would like to share with us?

 

I've got a Hal too, but they forgot to put on one of the cams.

 

RussTee,
Are you going to show pictures of your Rutherford?

.

 

Everything on the car except the mods I listed above is stock Model A, so the engine can't go faster than the stock tranny and rear end (and brakes!) will allow. I recently installed a new 97 repop from England and a flamethrower coil; previously an original 97 that leaked terribly, a fire waiting to happen.

My Number 1 & 2 plugs are a little sooty with the outer electrode being ash colored. Number 3 cylinder is a little oily; probably pumping some oil, Number 4 is moderately sooty (both 3 & 4 outer electrodes not ash colored). BTW, the plugs showed no difference after installing the new carb.

 

That's like a blind man explaining an elephant...... Sorry.

You need to have someone look at them that reads plugs.

You need to ''cut clean'' at what ever RPM you use. Provide a load like a long hill

Plugs need to be new.

HAL are not the best heads but the easiest to find for a Model A. Rules say we must used stuff designed before B motors.

I know where Full House Dreyer motors live and would love to do that but it's just toooooooo neeeeeew

 

I would like to second that Steve !!!!! I can't believe how much talent there is here and I'm so please that all of this knowledge is being shared.
Thanks,
Ron

 

Off to hospital this afternoon to start repairs to earthquake damaged shoulder learning to post pics and veiwing all the banger porn you guys post will help my recovery .
Now that single stick HAL is just what I want to see great stuff keep it coming guys.

 

Steve; I tried ordering one but they won't sell to a Canadian I didn't realize that this company was so distrusting of "Outsiders".
Ron

 

You think that's bad??? Try to get EGay sellers to post items won to Poland!!

We just had a short sharp earthquake in San Pedro!!! No damage....

 

I may have an extra, if I can find it I will sell to an outsider!