Same in regard to the website, and I got dropped from mailing list also. Might be because I wrote to him early that his target price was totally unrealistic, and his idea of the failure mode for rods was nonsense. He couldn't refute the rod question, except to state that engineering had progressed since the source I stated was published. Perhaps---but my argument was based on physics, (cause) not engineering (remedy). Herb
Yeah! I didn't mention that he is running a Volvo clutch and 4 speed tranny; all of which was not on cars in the 1923 Indy race. But, all of this, for years, was passed through the Historic Motor Sports Association (HMSA) scrutineers. Speaking of scrutineering, I understand that even the Bugatti Registry is accepting the fabulous Argentine replicas into their fold. I know there have been some run at the HMSA events. I have nothing against replicas, as long as they fit into "The Period"; and are indentified as such. I, like most, don't like to see them represented as the "real deal".
I was referring to the VCC NZ, and their weird practices and prejudices compared to their established rules. The Vintage Car Club of NZ defines " vintage car" the same way the UK law and clubs do and that is 1918 to 1930 . The AACA defines it as 1920 to 1930. The AACA defines antique as a car over 45 years old. Vintage actually refers to wine and generally means that 85% of the wine (in a bottle) came from the same source and was vinted in the same year..... As far as I know antique is a Latin word for old, collectible or desirable because of its age. US customs and the trade in general define antique as over 100 years old when referring to most items , but over 75 years old when referring to cars. The words are bandied around to add price ( value?) to many items, I guess it is up to the buyer to use discretion. When I got my roadster pickup it was 40 years old ( I was 13), my fathers car at the time was nearly new, but is now older than my vintage car was when I got it and is allowed to go on VCC club outings.
Sold my V8 car, I'm back to the fold... Gonna keep this one pretty stock, but it will need a little extra pep to push the Borg Warner torque tube overdrive once it goes in. Will Kimble www.kimblemandolins.com
Nice, but you could have bought one with an O/D in it already, and also an OHV B --for about 2X stock power. (from me) Herb
Herb, Your car looks GREAT, don't think I didn't look at the ad... This was about 1/3 the price of yours, and I like the challenge of bringing the car's performance back into focus. Thanks, Will
Couple of vids I shot today... <iframe src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/vroqy_jUSuY" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" width="560"></iframe> This was fresh out of the garage, still cold, and idling about 1000 rpm. Once it warmed up, it idles real nice about 700rpm. The T-5 really helps once its out in traffic. <iframe src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/OaL5N_2UwxQ" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" width="560"></iframe> How about that DODGE alternator! At least it isn't a Delco 1 wire! By the way, this rolling wonder of all things banger is for sale... I've got the itch to move on to V8 powered goodness!
Your car looks GREAT, don't think I didn't look at the ad... This was about 1/3 the price of yours, and I like the challenge of bringing the car's performance back into focus. Thanks, Will[/QUOTE] Will-- my post was supposed to be a little bit of humor---but on re-reading it it comes off a bit snarky--sorry for that. And i know full well what you mean about the challenge--that's why we all do it, isn't it? Thanks for the comment on my car! Herb
A little help here is required from the Nothern Banger still in the dead of winter. I really want to run a Wico mag on the Super B, in the roadster and I would like to know if I have to provide a way to advance and retard it. If in your opinion I do, then the set screw that will fit in the groove (see picture), will have to be backed off a bit so that it can rotate. This set screw will be the only thing holding the mag in the head. If on the otherhand fixing it in the optimum location would work, I could tighten the set screw down so that the mag will not rotate. Thanks, Ron
Mac, if you mean the retarded lobe for number three cylinder I think I read the Vertex doesn't have it.
Ron, I have run mags on the street without auto advance. It is hard on the engine if the mag does not have an impulse drive. An impulse drive lags the timing at starting rpms for easy starting. Once the engine is running at more then @ 250 rpm it fixes the timing to it's initial setting. The lag is somewhere @ 15 - 20 degs. retarded. So while the starter is turning the engine over, the impulse drive is retarding the ignition until it starts and runs at idle speed or higher. If the mag does not have an impulse or an auto (mechanical) advance feature, then you will be trying to start the engine at the fixed timing setting. Our little banger cranks don't like this. To much of this will strip teeth off of the flywheel ring gear and possibly lead to a two piece crank. Main and rod bearing don't last all that long either. If the mag has an impulse, I wouldn't set the static advance much more then what the lag is in the impulse. If the impulse lag is 15 degs., then the static setting would be @ 15-20 deg. advance. With out a manual or auto advance feature, a fixed ignition timing limited to 15-20 deg total advance will limit the performance of your expensive modified banger engine. It may look cool, but at what cost? My $0.02 I have also heard that the VW Vertex mags have a symmetrical firing order and not the slight de timing of one cylinder like on some of the stock VW distributors. Some of the VW vertex mags did come with centrifugal advance mechanisms. I also believe that just about any Vertex mag can be modified to include a centrifugal advance. Hope this helps. Here is a picture of the two Wico mags made to fit in the stock a distributor hole. The other is a Pontiac 4 cylinder Vertex mag. .
Thanks for taking the time Crazy to write this !!! It sure is great to be able to get information like this !!!! Hail to the HAMB !!
Some of you may remember last month inquiring about a Simmons super power head for a model a. I got it back from the machine shop. They took off ten thousands off. It has five cracks in the top of the water sideof the head. Considering low water pressure, I am tempted to run it as is as I assume at most it will seep. What are your more experienced banger guys thoughts or suggestions?
You can fix the head with Devcon Titanum putty. Groove the cracks and apply Then use a wet shop towel to texture the putty to match the casting
Bluto, Didn't you have a block sealer that might solve the problem here? Liquid ceramic or something like that? .
Ya, that stuff. Wouldn't that work for him? Sounds like he has heat checks, not so much wide open cracks. .
Yes , I know Crazy but I thought since I've gone this far with the "Super B"... (lol) I just thought it would be fitting to have an original. Ron p.s. Funny to be looking for "original" after market parts. Is that an oxymoron ?
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