I am looking for help in determining what width axle to put under a full fender 33-34 Pickup. I have talked to many suppliers but no one can give me a good answer so I am hoping you guys that actually have one or have built one can help. Here are my options: I have a stock axle that can be dropped with a KP width of a touch over 48 inches. SoCal/CE has a 47 inch that is forged from China. Superbell (Pete and Jakes) have a cast at 46 inches. I realize wheel/tire/brakes all figure into this. So could use some help on what you are using and what fender clearance you may have. Also are you using a stock crossmember or aftermarket? Thanks to all for any information.
Hey Flip, A lot of it will have to do with personal preference and budget. If you just plan on using All your stock front end parts (providing they are all 1934 original parts), But Only want a drop Axle ... then get an axle with a 46" to 48" inch K/P width, with a 36" perch width, and with a 2" axle boss. As for me ... I prefer a Forged Axle. I have ran both Superbells and Socal Dropped Axles on previous rides and by far prefer the Socal 47" over the Superbell 46". Just do a search on broken cast axles and you'll see what I mean. Other's may disagree with me, but for the extra 100 bucks I would much rather drive down the road knowing my 20,000 dollar truck and my life is riding on a Safer Forged Axle. Also, I felt the 46" tucked the wheels under the fenders just a little too far. I am running original 40's wheels 15" x 5" and the 47" axle sets the wheels "just right" under the Fenders "in my opinion". As far as width goes, you have a couple things to keep in mind, not just your K/P width but also Perch width. If you plan on using your stock spring, I believe you should have a 31" spring eye to eye, ... (others are 29"). So you would need around a 36" perch width on the axle if you plan on running your original spring. If you decide to go with a new 46" axle and spring and go with the 29" perch width instead of the 31", it will bring your spindles in closer on each side along with the tires and steering components and you may run into a problem with the tires and tie rods hitting your wishbones ( if they are split ) . You will also need to heat your spindle arms and drop them to accommodate the tie rod clearing underneath the bones, unless you plan on running hair pins. As for the cross member, I am using the stock one. I have a Drop Axle, along with a reverse eye spring, and then I pulled a couple leafs out to get her down a little more. If you keep your tire size down in the front by using a 165R15 then everything should clear pretty good without too many issues. .... and you will run into issues when you drop your truck ... "bump steer" is one common problem. Nothing that can't be solved, but just do your research first and check out a few other posts before going ahead with the drop. Also, I converted to cross steer using a late 60's ford manual box with 19:1 ratio. I also did the old style brake conversion using 56 F100 backing plates, brakes and drums and it kept that nostalgia look while also upgrading it to self energizing for a much better stopping experience. I'm running 47 Spindles and split bones. The 47 bones have a step in them at the tie rod area that gives you an extra inch of clearance for your steering linkage. Keep in mind that this will bring you up to a 2 1/4" Axle boss instead of the stock 2" boss like on an original 34 axle and bones. There is a lot to keep in mind, but like I said ... do your homework and see how others are doing it and then decide which method best fits your liking. ... Rich
I used a 46" 4 inch dropped Super Bell under my 34. I wanted to run disc brakes on the front and the stock axle would have my tires hitting the fender lips. My crossmember is aftermarket with a 1" built in drop. I have chrome smoothies and bias ply tires on the front and it fits just right to me, the tires are right in the deepest curve of the fenders. I can turn the wheels lock to lock without interference. After reading about the breakage problems associated with the Super Bell cast axle, I would reconsider buying it again though. But the 46" width works for me.
Rich - thanks for the response. I have done quite a bit of research. I prefer to use a dropped original as I feel it is safer. The 47 in by SoCal is forged but done so in China! Not so sure how good it is but some seem to think it is fine. I plan on using Wilwood disc kit which they claim is only about 3/16 inch wider than drums. With a 4 inch wheel with proper offset I hoping it will fit. If not I will have to back track and go with a SoCal axle. Was hoping maybe someone could provide some specifics as I didn't want do too much trial and error. And yes I am aware of the broken cast axles. To give me an idea, how much clearance do you have with your setup? Thanks again
Don - thanks for the information. Questions: What disc brake setup did you use and would your setup work with a 47 inch axle with maybe a different wheel offset? Thanks for your help.
Flip, I'm using the 46" Super Bell, 4" drop, and disk brakes (the full kit out of the Speedway catalog)
When I started my 34 I bought all the front end suspension from Speedway. I used their disc brake setup that uses the Mopar rotors. I would have to look up what the calipers are, I forgot. But it sets the mounting surface for the wheels further out than for a drum setup. I believe that a 47" axle might have also cleared with the wheels/tires I have on it now, just not the same fit as it has now which I think is just right. I have about an inch clearance on the outside of the fender to tire if I recall.(Looking at the photos of mine and Hotrodmyk, it may be more than that.) The truck is all apart again now getting ready for paint so I can't measure it at this time. I tried to put these same wheels/tires on my 32 coupe which has a 48" axle and they would not work, they hit the outside lip of the fender. But the 32 coupe has disc brakes on it that were on it when I bought it and I don't know what origin they are. I am sure that a different wheel offset would make a difference.
I don't remember the width but I'm using a dropped 32 heavy with posies super low spring and a 1 inch lower crossmember from asc. I really like the tuck and clearance with my fenders mounted for mock up now. using 51 Plymouth 15's for now too. fwiw Sent from my SM-G920R4 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Hey Flip, I'm gonna try to load some pictures here of my setup with the 47" Socal axle, I'm using the one with a 29" spring which brings the bones in closer to the frame giving more steering clearance ( not much, but every bit helps) ... I'm in the middle of rebuilding the whole front end so I have the fenders off right now but took a couple pictures of the bracket, one with a tape measure to it that reads just under 3 inches of clearance ... hopefully that helps you get an idea of the outside fender clearance. As far as steering clearance: I have 5x15" original 40's wheels but have a little wider tire on it so it rubs the wish bones a little bit if I make Sharp turns. ... Rich
Thanks for the information and excellent pictures. I have a dropped orginal axle that is a touch over 48 inches. Trying to visualize the tire out another 1/2 in. Plus I want to run a Wilwood disc brake kit that will push it out another 3/16 so they say. Maybe with a little narrower wheel and offset I could get it to work. If not, looks like the Solcal axle would work for me. Again thanks for all your help.
so what are you doing for the upper shock mount. I've got the same placement issues with the fender braces Sent from my SM-G920R4 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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