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Projects AWB Chevy II build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Doctorterry, Apr 10, 2017.

  1. powrshftr
    Joined: Mar 29, 2013
    Posts: 4,177

    powrshftr
    Member

    I think it might be wise to build a jig from a couple big I-beams,or something similar that would allow you a real heavy,stable jig to keep that car squared up and keep it from moving around all over the place while you're trying to cut and weld on it.
    It would also pay to spend some time giving serious thought to what your overall plan is.It seems like you're kinda winging it here.Maybe just take a couple weeks,go through some AWB picture threads on the Hamb,and some on other sites,like George Klass's,then you can have some really solid ideas of exactly what you like,and have a pretty solid road map of how to proceed.
    It'll make your life easier,save you from doing things 2 or 3 times cause they weren't right the first time,and the car will be built to a higher level of quality and safety the first time around.
    Also money well spent,would be a catalog from a company that supplies early Nova sheet metal like partial floors,rockers,etc.Getting the car as solid as you can before you move forward with any more fabrication might be money and time well spent.As soon as you put any weight on those front frame stubs,they're gonna flex all over the place in you,and you'll never be able to keep anything square.
    Chasing your tail because of stuff like that will turn you off a project real quick.

    A little bit of time spent prepping for the work ahead of you will be well spent.


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  2. BradinNC
    Joined: Mar 18, 2014
    Posts: 207

    BradinNC
    Member

    A quick tip and an observation. Looks like your not prepping the welds with a grinder before you weld. It really helps for a better weld. I don't see how your frame work on the front end ties to your main frame. If you plan on doing what you said, popping wheelies at the strip, they should tie in together someway. Maybe a plate on the backside of the front mount, so they bolt together with grade 8 bolts. and tie that rear plate into the main frame.
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2017
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  3. Doctorterry
    Joined: Sep 12, 2015
    Posts: 327

    Doctorterry
    Member

    [​IMG]

    Throwing some sheetmetal together to get a fitting so I can know where to end these rear frame rails.

    [​IMG]

    Also bought this front end.. don't know exactly what year it is... what do you all think it's worth?


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  4. Looks like a 40/41 Ford.

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  5. I just noticed what looks like a window cut in the lower sub-frame mounts.I asked about this earlier.
    So the 2x3 frame rail is right there on the other side of your stub deal?
     
  6. Doctorterry
    Joined: Sep 12, 2015
    Posts: 327

    Doctorterry
    Member

    Yup


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  7. Okay, as several people have mentioned , you came that close, it could have all been in one piece.
    Remember what I said about laying it all out first, and building two frame rails, in exact duplicate?
    I don't think it's the end of the world now. It all depends on how you tie it all in . But I do wonder how you got one frame stub straight, without having the other one on hand.
     
  8. Doctorterry
    Joined: Sep 12, 2015
    Posts: 327

    Doctorterry
    Member

    Sure, I probably should've made it all one piece but I don't think it's going to hinder the strength much. It won't be any weaker than having the stock sub frame with a bolt on front axle kit like a lot of people do. And whether the one frame rail is straight or not, I don't consider it to be and it'll be re-worked once I get some more metal and move on to that point.


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  9. 33 cdan man
    Joined: Sep 15, 2016
    Posts: 31

    33 cdan man

    Keep in mind the inner fenders were a very important part of the structure of these Novas. If you are planning on not using them you must replace with some down bars from the top of the firewall where the stock front end was attached with the 3 bolts down to the front part of the frame rails. Take a look at the TCI or Heidts subframe kits and you can see what I am referring to.
     
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  10. jkluge
    Joined: Oct 6, 2014
    Posts: 100

    jkluge

    How are the doors fitting since you have your frame rails welded in?
     
  11. Doctorterry
    Joined: Sep 12, 2015
    Posts: 327

    Doctorterry
    Member

    Yes that all will be accounted for


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  12. Doctorterry
    Joined: Sep 12, 2015
    Posts: 327

    Doctorterry
    Member

    They fit good! Shut like they're new lol


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  13. I don't ever say anything negative on here, But you really need to look at the proper prep of your welds. I don't see any prep at all. if they are not prepped you will not get as strong a weld. I don't know how strict the Drag strip is where you are planning on running this, but I know that in some of the tracks that I have raced at, if they saw sub par welds on major things like front frame stubs, you would never make it through tech inspection.

    Also, and I say this from experience, you need to sit down and draw, with detailed measurments, all of your chassis ideas out. I shoot from the hip with doing this stuff a lot, but not with building a chassis. you do that wrong the car will cave in on itself or cause you to crash. these cars were flexible flyers when they were new. yours has half or less of what was holding and already flexible body together missing. Think about replacing all the floors in it before you start doing major chassis work, or at least square the body up and weld tubing braces in it everywhere to keep it stiff. every time you weld on the shell that you are working with it is moving a little bit. Tust me it is doesn't seem like a big deal, but if the body shifted 1/8 to 1/16 inch for every stich or tack weld you do for putting in a new piece for the frame, add up those hundred of more spots. and you have shift and twist everywhere all over it. and will end up with a car shell that is now real stiff from all the support but is way out of square and wants to dog track going down the road.

    Just trying to save you some of the grief of building this stuff. all the things I said above are all things that I did in the process of learning how to do this stuff. and I fucked a lot of stuff up. I also had guys that were building cars since the 70's advising me. Just cause the have been doing it for ever, doesn't always mean know the right way to do stuff.
     
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  14. Doctorterry
    Joined: Sep 12, 2015
    Posts: 327

    Doctorterry
    Member

    Bought yet another axle.... it's drilled and a little more narrow. Think I'm gonna use this one.

    [​IMG]


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  15. Doctorterry
    Joined: Sep 12, 2015
    Posts: 327

    Doctorterry
    Member

    What are the mounting points that you weld in the end of a split wish bone called?


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  16. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 36,287

    squirrel
    Member

    you mean something like a weld in threaded bung?
     
  17. Doctorterry
    Joined: Sep 12, 2015
    Posts: 327

    Doctorterry
    Member

    [​IMG]

    I get it now... I weld in this bung, and then thread in a tie rod end?


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  18. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 36,287

    squirrel
    Member

    That's one way to do it.
     
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  19. I mean I guess you could duct tape it together if you don't like welding.......

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  20. Doctorterry
    Joined: Sep 12, 2015
    Posts: 327

    Doctorterry
    Member

    It would be easier...


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  21. wrenchbender
    Joined: Sep 5, 2007
    Posts: 1,136

    wrenchbender
    Member

    Speedway sells a kit with bungs and tie rod ends to split wishbones that's what i used on my dragster it's reasonable and works well


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  22. Doctorterry
    Joined: Sep 12, 2015
    Posts: 327

    Doctorterry
    Member

    Awesome thanks


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  23. How would you tighten the tie rod end stud into the bung?
     
  24. wrenchbender
    Joined: Sep 5, 2007
    Posts: 1,136

    wrenchbender
    Member

    The bung you weld in is threaded and uses a jam nut just like a tie rod or drag link the kit comes with a bracket for the other end and has a taper in it


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  25. He didn't say anything about the bracket.
     
  26. neighborkidswillys
    Joined: May 9, 2010
    Posts: 58

    neighborkidswillys
    Member
    from byron

    The brackets can come in the kit I believe, i used this same setup on my car


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  27. Doctorterry
    Joined: Sep 12, 2015
    Posts: 327

    Doctorterry
    Member

    Thanks, and I really enjoy your 57 build! Can't wait to see more progress posted.


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  28. Doctorterry
    Joined: Sep 12, 2015
    Posts: 327

    Doctorterry
    Member

    [​IMG]

    Got the frame rails in their final position, almost ready to be welded to their mounting plates... I got one upright tacked in place just for the purpose of mock up. I'm please with how it turned out! Hopefully I can finish the other one tonight. Once I get them done, I will start fabbing a crossmember and then start welding things together.


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  29. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 6,634

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    Hope that sprag isn't going in the build.
     
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  30. Doctorterry
    Joined: Sep 12, 2015
    Posts: 327

    Doctorterry
    Member

    It's staying there till I get a crossmember


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