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Projects AV8 Roadster Build Thread

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by texag09, Sep 1, 2015.

  1. texag09
    Joined: Jun 26, 2008
    Posts: 223

    texag09
    Member

    Introduction: I purchased this project off of here back in 2013, I started the build July 2015. This is my first true car build, prior to this I have only done light mechanical and restoration/repair work. I am here to document my build and hopefully get some advice from y'all along the way. I have limited tools and am working in a 2 car garage on a tight budget.

    Starting point: Drove to Dallas to pick up the car stopped by Gas Monkey on the way back to Houston.

    Got the car home and unloaded
     
  2. texag09
    Joined: Jun 26, 2008
    Posts: 223

    texag09
    Member

  3. texag09
    Joined: Jun 26, 2008
    Posts: 223

    texag09
    Member

    Wanted to build a true AV8 using the factor frame.

    Started with removing all the fender/running board supports and filling the misc. holes in the frame. Ordered a set of drilled boxing plates for the frame.
    Had one bad spot near the rear cross member to repair.

    All better now.

    Continued boxing the rear half.
     
  4. texag09
    Joined: Jun 26, 2008
    Posts: 223

    texag09
    Member

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  5. Likin' your project. Keep her going...........
     
  6. texag09
    Joined: Jun 26, 2008
    Posts: 223

    texag09
    Member

  7. texag09
    Joined: Jun 26, 2008
    Posts: 223

    texag09
    Member

    Next I did a preliminary mock up of the new drop axle, round back spindles and juice backing plates.

    After I liked the way it all fit up I took it back apart and started on the motor mounts.

    The 8BA looked at home in the A rails. So I moved back to the front and took my round back spindles and installed new bushings.

    Picked up a reamer NOS with original box of ebay for $15 worked great.
     
  8. texag09
    Joined: Jun 26, 2008
    Posts: 223

    texag09
    Member

  9. texag09
    Joined: Jun 26, 2008
    Posts: 223

    texag09
    Member

  10. J'st Wandering
    Joined: Jan 28, 2004
    Posts: 1,653

    J'st Wandering
    Member

    How did you decide where to place the front motor mounts? Looks farther back than where I put mine.

    Neal
     
  11. texag09
    Joined: Jun 26, 2008
    Posts: 223

    texag09
    Member

    They are a little further back in appearance the front cross member is moved forward as far as possible in its current configuration. Using the factory fan hub assembly and recommended radiator clearance it is 10" from CL of motor mount holes to the radiator. This will require a 2" recess in the firewall, and a slightly large opening in distance from hood to radiator/grill shell. I did this because i was going to run a 38 truck grill shell modified and slanted back but changed my mind and will run a model a shell. Unfortunately I am too far along to fix it now so I will deal with 2" recess.
     
  12. kkarlsrud
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 50

    kkarlsrud
    Member
    from MN

    Good looking start! What front end did you go with, I'm trying to decide?
    thanks!
     
  13. texag09
    Joined: Jun 26, 2008
    Posts: 223

    texag09
    Member

    Its a super bell drop with reverse eye spring.
     
  14. J'st Wandering
    Joined: Jan 28, 2004
    Posts: 1,653

    J'st Wandering
    Member

    Sounds like you have a plan.

    I will be following your build with interest. Always like watching a build with a different take on how to get it done.

    Neal
     
  15. I think the rear hangers are way too close together for the spring.

    The hangers are vertical now with a bare frame...where are they going to go with weight on the frame?

    Better rethink that one. Speedway parts right?
     
  16. texag09
    Joined: Jun 26, 2008
    Posts: 223

    texag09
    Member

    I guess I forgot to mention, that is correct, that is only the main leaf from an A spring. I put it in that way to mock up it up because it is suppose to be at the correctly height (hanger to frame) as the T medium arch spring I ordered. It should be here this week and we will see how it rides. I cant move them any closer to the backing plates due to interference with the wheel cylinders. I will post and update when the spring gets mounted. The mounts are "MR Roadster" brand. they seem good 1/4" plate and welds seem ok on them, not sure if they are USA made of not it didn't say.

    EDIT: They are roughly 42.5" between CL of the spring eyes now, unstretched the spring I ordered is suppose to be 38.5" so they should be ok, just have to wait and see.
     
  17. Fingers crossed.
     
  18. Will follow your build with great interest. Seems you have made a real strong start. In middle of similar build with friend. Good luck!
     
  19. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 26,720

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'm in on this one to see where it goes. And maybe pick up a tip or two on putting the flathead in mine.
     
  20. Swiss50chevy
    Joined: Apr 30, 2009
    Posts: 557

    Swiss50chevy
    Member

  21. texag09
    Joined: Jun 26, 2008
    Posts: 223

    texag09
    Member

    Got a good bit of progress done on the holiday, didn't take a lot of pictures but here is the list.

    1. Mounted Model t Rear Spring
    2. Installed Lower Bars for 4 Bar
    3. Test Fit 8BA in Mounts
    4. Bolted T5 Behind Motor in the Frame
    5. Began Fab of trans mount
    6. Test Fit the Radiator / Grill Shell

    The rear tires are about 4" shorter then the ones that I will be running, but needed to make a roller so I used them.

    Plan for this week, make a 1/2" rear spacing centering device for the T spring in the rear cross member. Mount upper 4 bar links and square rear end up in the frame. Finish the trans mount and start building the structural cross member / pedal box.

     
  22. texag09
    Joined: Jun 26, 2008
    Posts: 223

    texag09
    Member

    Got a little bit more done this last week.

    Fabricated a trans cross member. (will be gusseted for additional strength after final fit up and alignment.)

    Began undoing the previous owners patch job. the bottom patch ran the length of the car across to door opening. Lots of grinding will need to save the quarters and the cowl but the door skins will go.


    Starting to see how bad it really is and it looks better than expected.


    Once the bottom patch was off the doors are welded to the body, so I sacrificed the door skins to save the quarters.
     
  23. Hdonlybob
    Joined: Feb 1, 2005
    Posts: 3,878

    Hdonlybob
    Member

    Totally impressive build... Keep us in the loop :)
     
  24. jimbo121
    Joined: Jun 15, 2006
    Posts: 126

    jimbo121
    Member

  25. texag09
    Joined: Jun 26, 2008
    Posts: 223

    texag09
    Member

    It has been a while since I last updated, things are continuing to progress with the build, including some major changes to the project.

    Engine Change: As previously stated I had pulled the 8RT from the truck to use in the build with the T5. Once I got it tore down to replace the water pumps (that I knew leaked quite a lot) I discovered a crack in the block from the rear of the water pump to the oil pan lip. As this is a budget build and in true hot rod fashion I had to use what I had on hand, went to the back forty and pulled the smallbock ford out of the Fairlane.

    InstagramCapture_59876c2c-7b6b-4729-8c04-270a142e022c.jpg 1510783_1109787262373111_8133272837622949534_n.jpg

    Body Change: I started with the rear quarters from a 28/29 Sports Coupe the cowl of a 30/31 roadster and the doors of 30/31 sedan. I picked up a set of 28/29 roadster doors and a 28/29 sedan cowl, and began working the body together with the sports coupe quarters.

    InstagramCapture_961042d5-5400-4178-bb01-c45b7a210e42.jpg WP_20151206_18_02_37_Pro.jpg

    Delay: While working on the frame I encountered a small delay due to an injury. While grinding the boxing plates smooth with the tiger paw, the blade slipped and hung up in one of the speed holes. The grinder was ripped from my hand and I did not move the hand that was holding the handle quick enough. Right through my glove and six stitches later I was moving a little slower.

    V__A72A.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

  26. texag09
    Joined: Jun 26, 2008
    Posts: 223

    texag09
    Member

    Finally finished the final weld out and frame modifications.

    1014336_1110726678945836_6378536417133767331_n.jpg 1936527_1110726625612508_1485889085521169561_n.jpg WP_20151109_19_06_01_Pro.jpg

    Fabricated a new trans cross member for the C4.
    1450716_1109787255706445_1004310411821554105_n (1).jpg 1655920_1109787282373109_1246237324046260465_n.jpg
     
  27. texag09
    Joined: Jun 26, 2008
    Posts: 223

    texag09
    Member

    Update:

    It has been a fast and furious few months. The goal was to get the car ready for my wedding on 1/23/16. Spent 6 months building the frame and suspension only had 30 days left to put the car together. So here are some photos by date of the progress leading up to the big day.

    12.27.15

    1.10.16

    1.15.16

    1.17.16

    1.18.16

    1.22.16

    1.22.16 - 1 Day to go, final adjustments at the wedding venue.

    1.23.16 D-Day

    It was missing a few things: No floor boards, not interior aside from the seats, only ignition and starting electrical was run, no exhaust past the manifolds. It ran and drove and made it.

     
  28. texag09
    Joined: Jun 26, 2008
    Posts: 223

    texag09
    Member

    Now its time to take the body back off replace the cowl with a roadster cowl, floor boards, and wiring to follow in the next few weeks.
     
  29. It's great that your wife has a good sense of humor! ;)
     

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