Technical ***August 2020 Banger Meet Thread - More of the Same***

Good question, I'll have to look that up.
Maybe just an illusion or maybe it's not seated properly against the valve guide.

 

Jim,
Just a point, locking nuts are not required on assemblies that are properly assembled and torked.
It is up to you and or whoever assembles your stuff.
That said, I have found McMaster Carr is very good to find hardware, multiple grades and well documented.
On the other hand, if you just want the best hardware, ARP is hard to beat. IMHO, critical assemblies that could use a cheap insurance policy, ARP stuff makes sense.
BTW, IMHO, the Model A/B main and rod assembly with shims is not a proper assembly.
In todays world it would be a choice, not a mandate.

John

 

Mikko,
that threaded hole is for a retaining screw assy to hold the oil pump in the block while the pan is off.
Some people also use it for an oil feed from the pump out to a filter and then back somewhere else in the motor.

Oh, and the spring that looks like it is not seated, the others will probably do the same after some running too.

John

 

Does that not also set the position of the distributor drive?

 

Nope. The distributor lockdown is just north of exh/intake manifold.

 

Picked up this little roadster yesterday, also ordered the book that’s pinned on the front of this post. Can’t wait to get some speed parts on this thing.




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John, you are supposed to back that oil pump retainer off after the oil pan is on correct?

 

The distributor retainer is in the head.

 

Still out here in the bangerland. Some changes. More gears, more driven axles, less displacement. Still fun. Hope everyone is safe.


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Anyone running dual strombergs and a B Pump? Looking for Fuel line options from pump to carbs. Most I see are either dual carbs to an A tank, or running a line from an electric up the firewall. I will be running a Header. Thanks!

 

Amen to that. I just bought some ARP studs and nuts for my Frontenac head for my Model T. I was having doubts on typical studs that are available and a smidge short on the length. We all spend alot on these cars, questionable fasteners on critical assemblies is not the place to cheap out. Buy the best you can no matter what the source you choose is. ARP is awesome to work with and very helpful and ships direct to your house. You don't have to buy the 12 point nuts and bolts either they have been known for, they do sell hex headed stuff too.

 

Typically the retainer is removed and a plug or fitting put back in.

 

Jim, should be able to find some photos here https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-4-banger-hot-rod-picture-thread.997051/

 

3 of them, two simply running a "rubber" line, one hard line to a rubber line. Running a non overhead B in a 1932 seems pretty rare. Most of the B blocks have the fuel pump removed and are in an A chassis. May need to find someone to custom make a hard line.

 

Jim1932
32 B stock fuel pump. When fuel in carbs dry up it’s a beoch to start.

 

how to get pan to seal (as in no leaks) . i cant seem to fix it ................ thanks .. steve
"o" ring in front .

 

Quit putting oil in it.............
where is it leaking from, front seal?
you may want to try another pan.

J

 

good idea , no oil no leak !
john , it snivels on pan rails & front seal . this is another pan . oil never goes down on stick , just on my garage floor . just very tired of pulling pan , fixing it & same ole thing .......... thanks .. steve

 

Fourd
Were did you get the air cleaners from
Like the look

Skip

 

got an extra pan ?

 

Hey Steve,
A lot of pans are tweeted. The pans are beat on to get them off or to make them ‘fit’ ! Which pan do you have in use...A or B ? Did you lay the pan on flat surface to check for distorted rails and or twisted pan ?
Also where O-ring sits in pan...is that bent out of shape ?
A pans are much more abundant. You might get a cherry A pan, alter it and get it ready for use, while you drive leaky. Not a hard alteration.
I dont know exactly what process Ford used to make his A/B pans, but that metal IS TOUGH.
I have a nice painted altered B pan that i wont use. This pan has been worked so much, that it is tweeked in several directions. It will take a metal expert to fix this nice looking pan...lol

 

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/grace-co-air-cleaners.1039241/

Nice looking assembly

 

Thanks will contact them
Skip

 

** thank you ............ ill see what i can find ............ steve

 

Thats damn close to where I am ... my air cleaners are chrome. I am thinking I would like ot do it all hard line, but maybe not feasible.

 

with out lines...

 

I have failed y'all....went to start my Cabriolet - which usually starts right up after a few dozen engine turns - and even after a good points cleaning.....it just wasn't hitting.....going to do a super tune up next month....

 

well i think i found a good pan . we will see when it gets here ............ thanks all ........ steve

***** win lose or draw , last attempt

 

That's funny never have ANY drops from my "oil pan"..