#@%*August 2013 Banger Meet #$^&

This is a B block. I didn't make the hole bigger. I just blended the port to match the hole in the block. The biggest change is to the roof of the intake ports. My efort was focused on making the fuel / air charge flow as straight as possible to the cylinder.


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Thanks for the kind words. They are BF Goodrich's all the way around. I have another pair that are Michelins. I'm not sure what there intended purpose is but they fit an A really well. I also get a nice overdrive affect out of them. I picked up about 8 to 10 mph with them at a similar RPM. I caught myself on GPS Doing 63 the other day. Not bad for an A with a rebuild date of 46 on the motor


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If you've never seen this it is new info, from George Riley June 1933. Bob

 

Cheers CD! Pretty much what I aimed for on the engine on my bench, but yours is far more photogenic...!

 

Another, hope this comes through. Bob

 

While on the subject of ports--

Has anyone ever given any thought to trying to sneak a sheet metal divider into the intake port, with a custom sheet steel manifold with two separate runners to match?

Given that it would cut the port area in half, it would be useless for a 4K RPM engine--but for the revs that a street motor runs at--I wonder???

It would also go against the principal that the area of the port just below the valve should be the smallest, to increase velocity through the seat area.

The ports in my Miller-Schofield head are way to large for the street--have to put this on my "to try" list--I have blocked in three weeks in early 2019 as the earliest available.

Herb

 

Herb

I've tried that on several different things....... never worth the effort

AND SOMETIMES real crap!

 

Good stuff guys! Thanks for the tips and pics.

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I opened the intake ports to 1 5/8" at the manifold on my A block. I once read where Riley (I think) advised having a 1 5/8" cutter ground with a 70 degree angle to open the exhaust ports at the manifold side on a B block.

 

Yes, Enlarge the last Riley blueprint I posted above for that info. Bob

 

I picked up this interesting little valve in an estate buy.
The stuff was mostly A some V8 60 and some v8. I bought all the rusty crap in the back shed no one wanted. I've done lots of sorting and lots of scrapping of un rebuildable vintage cast iron. I've saved all the A stuff to satisfy my hoarding tendencies.

So the million dollar question is do you recognize this? I've never seen anything like it.



The old man whose stuff it was has an A with a Miller overhead on it and had a 32 Lincoln at one time. I unfortunately never got the chance to meet him. I can tell though by digging through his stuff, we would have got along just fine.

 

Northwood Iowa Fast Speed Meet 14 Sept. 2013.

10<SUP>th</SUP> Annual North Central Region

F.A.S.T. Speed Meet
Saturday, September 14, 2013
Worth County Fairgrounds, Northwood, Iowa
4 miles south of the Minnesota Border, 7 miles east of I - 35
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Bring cars, engines, parts, photo albums, etc. to show and tell. If you have items for sale or trade bring them. Display tables will be provided. Inspection for the time trials will also be done at this time. Coffee and rolls will be available for registered attendees.

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3:30 pm: Awards Presentation for all class winners and King of the Hill

<TABLE dir=ltr border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=7 width=734><TBODY><TR><TD width="33%">$20.00

per person​

$5.00 ​

​

for spouse​

Please mail registration and fee to:
Arlen Throne
2105 Furman Drive
Ames, IA 50010
641-420-5502
[email protected]​

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</TD><TD width="33%">For Time Trial Information

Contact:
Bill Devine

(Des Moines)​

515-240-6441​

For General Information Contact:
Paul Metzger
319-234-5380​

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10th Annual North Central Region F.A.S.T. Speed Meet

​

​

September 14, 2013​

Please return this form with payment to Arlen Throne,

2105 Furman Drive, Ames, IA 50010​

(641) 420-5502
NAME: __________________________________________________ PHONE: ______________________
ADDRESS: ________________________________________________________________________________
CITY: __________________________________________ STATE:______________ ZIP CODE: ___________
EMAIL: _____________________________________ DO YOU PLAN TO BRING A CAR? YES NO
CARS DO NOT HAVE TO BE PRE-REGISTERED. FEEL FREE TO DECIDE AT THE LAST MINUTE TO BRING A CAR. (THE MORE CARS THE MORE FUN). Registration is $20.00 per person, $5.00 for spouse
Form of Payment (please circle one) CASH /CHECK Check #:___________

10th Annual North Central Region F.A.S.T. Speed Meet
September 14, 2013
Please return this form with payment to Arlen Throne, ​

​

2105 Furman Drive, Ames, IA 50010​

(641) 420-5502
NAME: __________________________________________________ PHONE: ______________________
ADDRESS: ________________________________________________________________________________
CITY: __________________________________________ STATE:______________ ZIP CODE: ___________
EMAIL: _____________________________________ DO YOU PLAN TO BRING A CAR? YES NO
CARS DO NOT HAVE TO BE PRE-REGISTERED. FEEL FREE TO DECIDE AT THE LAST MINUTE TO BRING A CAR. (THE MORE CARS THE MORE FUN) Registration is $20.00 per person, $5.00 for spouse
Form of Payment (please circle one) CASH /CHECK Check #:___________

10th Annual North Central Region F.A.S.T. Speed Meet
September 14, 2013
Please return this form with payment to Arlen Throne, ​

​

2105 Furman Drive, Ames, IA 50010​

(641) 420-5502
NAME: __________________________________________________ PHONE: ______________________
ADDRESS: ________________________________________________________________________________
CITY: __________________________________________ STATE:______________ ZIP CODE: ___________
EMAIL: _____________________________________ DO YOU PLAN TO BRING A CAR? YES NO
CARS DO NOT HAVE TO BE PRE-REGISTERED. FEEL FREE TO DECIDE AT THE LAST MINUTE TO BRING A CAR. (THE MORE CARS THE MORE FUN) Registration is $20.00 per person, $5.00 for spouse
Form of Payment (please circle one) CASH /CHECK Check #:___________

​

 

Well, Bluto... You do not have to tell me that I should have listened to your advice...
I removed the magneto from the roadster as I could not get the banger to run as well as it does with the dizzy with the Pertonics conversion. I did the spark plug out of the hole with the mag and the spark was really lame when I cranked it over. When I tried the same test with the Mallory dist. it was like a flame thrower in comparison. The engine fires right up and runs so much better in every way now. I was just wondering if the restored Wico needs different wires and or plugs to make a good spark at the plug ?
Ron
p.s. no more flooding at the carbs, Jim

 

Rotary valve?.... maybe some kind of oiling device?

Sent from my DROID RAZR using H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Many early OHV or F head engines had valyes in "cages" like the one around the valve one shown. In an F head, the intake and exhaust were sometimes located right above one another, with the intake above. When a caged valve was used, it's removal made a hole in the cylinder large enough to grind in or remove the exhaust valve. usually there was a large ring nut that screwed into the top of the hole, that pressed the cage down onto a copper ring washer that sealed the bottom. Whole arrangement didn't do much to improve intake breathing.

Herb Kephart

 

Thanks. It got saved from the scrapper because it was interesting looking. Now I guess it's garage decor.


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Hi I wonder if it's worth placing a 1932-1934 cylinder head on my A block, I'm trying to get some more power without spending much money, Model B head is something easy to get in my country. Really worth the effort? and what about the head gasket?
Also let me know if I can put a model B camshaft for the same purpose.
I was doing some porting work on the intake and exhaust outlets. I just do not know if enlarge on top of the valves ... I'd have to put bigger valves?
Thanks Leandro

 

well ford advertised 50 hp with the head and cam so a 25% increase in hp is pretty good to me. might as well put a b carb on it too
tk

 

What is it
Turbo waste gate valve ????
Colin

 

About 40 years before turbos existed, if not more--see post #165

Herb

 

The exhaust driven supercharger was first patented in 1905 and saw use in ww1.

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I have old Buicks, a 1914 and a 1922 and is the valve in head setup they ran for years. There is no head, the cylinder is one piece and these valve cages run in the top. I always thought how Buick's design was ahead of its time. They ran an over head valve years before most companies did.
I will have to look but I think I have a picture of the top end of my '14 I can post.

 

Hi everybody,

I'm new to bangers. I brought home a Model A on Friday and thismorining I found a B head for it. To what Ratamahata was asking, it's my understanding that the B heads were higher compression and cooled better.

The head I got has a letter C on top. A guy a the swap meet almost shat himself when he saw it. He said it was a "speed head" with higher compression than the stock B. Any truth in that?

 

No.

The highest of the "stock" Fords was the one with a letter B cast into it. It was the "police head" and used the stock A 4 bolt water pump.

The heads with a C cast in are the stock heads for the model B engine, and are made for the B three bolt pump.

So the progression from low to high is A C B

But even the B head isn't much--as I recall it is 5.6-1

Herb

 

I believe the C lettered head is the stock B 32-34 motor's head. It is a little more compression.

I also believe the B Lettered head is to be a model A motor Police Head which has even more compression than the C lettered.

By how much, I am not sure.

I have a spare Simmons Super speed Head that I believe is at 6.1-1 compression ratio. How does that compare to the stock A, B, and C lettered heads?

 

Have a picture of the Simmons head?

 

Had two, sold one with my Tudor,

This is the other

 

I'm also new to this game, so my question is. I have no issues with my brakes but have damaged studs. I know they have to be removed with the cutter or a 5/8 hole saw with no pilot. But can I re use my drum after or am I only going to salvage my hub from this?

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Providing the brake drum is in good condition it can be reused however there are advantages in going to cast iron drums and a flathead Ted brake update kit.

 

What is the brake upgrade kit?

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