Just a wee little update here for me... Was out last weekend wet sandin' the roadster and setting up the seat belt positioning ***(oh and if there's anyone runnin' WWII bomber lap belts, let me know how you affixed them, I'm open to suggestions, I'd like to see how others handled this!!!)*** A little gnawing at the T-racer build,... hood, bellypan, body framework and tranny linkage coming along,.. slooowly. Just roughing-in the linkage,... gotta make the threaded linkage, etc still.... not runnin' a starter either, just usin' this hog's head for now,... gonna srt her the 'ol-fashioned way.
Any advice on how to hood a 1930 stock speedo up to a t-5? I don't have a speedometer or stock cable to play with to see what works and what doesn't. Thanks.
For those who asked about the Plymouth with the Y block head, Now that I don't have it anymore I get pictures. Thanks wayne.
1930 stock speedo up to a t-5? *** the t5 im working on has the speedo tied into the adapter on the rear end . next to the rear yoke (ujoint) . all came in the kit ... steve
Coaltown, You know that I'm lovin' your project, but I just couldn't help myself when I saw your linkage:
Gents and ladies I am looking for some measurements/plans so I can build a sub frame for a 1928 roadster, I know the bits to build one are available in the USA but it gets very expensive shipping to Australia. I have nothing to measure off or to copy, I am sure some of the experts here have done this. I am tempted to make it out of 1" by 2" rectangle tube as I have seen someone selling these at a swap meet. Any help would be appreciated. Brendan
i may be able to get a pair of SU carbs off of 1970 datsun. think ones of these would work well on a stockish model a banger? just going to run a header for now, slightly higher compression and ill make my own intake. neet looking carbs made just before the datsun smog years. found some info on them Hitachi HJG 46W 1.75 in (44.4 mm) SU-type carburetors
I'm trying for a "Hi-Low" gear setup,.... more work to be done though,.. obviously.... feel free to throw some insight in on doing a proper "hi-low" setup. I'm in the kindergarden of some of the Model T trans stuff!!! Oh and the pedal coming down is not actually going to activate "reverse" it will simply be utilizing the hole left by the reverse pedal as a pivoting area. I've gone off of some notes I read and a few photos from a fellow who did a hi-low setup on a sprint car. Of course I may just not be understanding it correctly,... anything's possible!!
Bobby I just figured it was better to start ribbing you now BEFORE you suprised us all with your latest hair brain plan to conquer the world
Oh, Bluto passed on a picture of Bobby Green to me the other day- thought I'd share it considering his last post...
Nice simple carbs,all you need to do is fab a manifold to suit. Tuning them will give you hours of 'fun' so try getting hold of some of the older SU tuning books that turn up on amazon. A CO meter is a must to get the correct mixture. Hitachi's were SU's made ( and improved)under license in japan.
The last link in the train is stopping the pedal moving. if you want it to move ,the last shaft lever must be at right angles. Try fabbing a disc with holes that will fit on the last shaft. you can then 'index' the lever to get the best motion from the pedal.
Do you mean a frame for the body or a chassis plan? http://www.the-antidote.com/one/1chass01.htm#part1
you're running a T-5 trans Steve? I had thought it was a stock setup? coaltown , mine is stock , its a friends t-5 . i love double clutching , ex truckdriver ya know ............... steve
Oh I see where you're talking about,... there is some slop/play in this setup and the pedal came to rest at the point where you see it in the photo. Sorry, I didn't notice that when I took the photo. Its just a hog's head not hooked up or anything,... something to use to work on before doing it for good, etc. Yes, that arm will actually sit either straight down, or straight back (facing the rear, either one at a right angle, as needed to get movement out of it correctly. I figure to get the best motion with the least amount of fabbing (for now) I'm going to use stock clevis' so they can be adjusted to get a better amount of movement,... however, the disc with several holes is a good idea and solution. We'll see,... I'll keep that in mind when I get back to the trans this weekened. Thanks a million for the suggestions!
Oh and I think you banger guys will like this thread,... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3848656#post3848656
No rearend adaptor for me! Mine has a hot rod works open drive conversion... So, I think the drive cable will work, but I don't think the sleave part will. Anybody got any ideas about a sleave with model a on one end and T-5 on the other? Or should I just bag the idea and put that set of gauges I got at a garage sale for $5 in it. You know the funny looking ones with the curved glass and the goofy pointer. They say stuart werner or something... They were right next to the ardun heads and the offy parts.
Two must equal one of those monster Winfeild jugs. They 1 3/4" and an A engine is closer to 200 cubes so if anything they may be a bit smallish.I don'y know the CFM of any SU but it's a lot as the volume is pretty large once the piston rises.
put some more time in the body. Sectioned the seat about 3 1/4", getting it start flowing. Been working around the idea of using the stock cowl. I think there are to many converging lines. Needs more curves, but it is an improvement. original body mock up, with section seat: Gave it some hips... You guys still going to let me play: The 1 1/2 Stromberg is going on the wall, have to use the 1 3/4 Miller. The head is actually cross flow, the intake port runs through this side then across the other side. This was Wiedleys way of dealing with the bad gas of the time. this came in a care package (there are 2 of 'em)
I rolled the roadster out to see how the bellypan looked I ran out of sheet so will finish off in a week or so. The rear pan needs some trimming to square it up. cheers Jimmy
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