Technical *** APRIL 2016 BANGER MEET - DON'T BE FOOLED BY SUBSTITUTES ***

@Tiny, what else is included in your kit? Interested to see what bell is used and clutch set up. I got my t5 issues figured out. I still haven't driven it yet. Hoping by July I will have it running.

 

Binger, does that mean Bonneville?

 

basically the adapter is a 1" plate with counter sunk bolts .... stock model "A" bellhousing . trans bolt to adapter . as before v8 9" clutch & pressure plant . the disk is special & couples the trans to the clutch .
all else is no big deal ................... if tiny buys the get , get specs on the clutch disk .............. steve

 

V4F, do you know what % O/D the S-10 T-5 is? Do you think it's stout enough to run in an AA truck?

R/ Roger

 

@noboD I hope to have the bugs out of the thing to get it up to the Hotrod Hillclimb in September. I don't think I will make the trip to see them run on the salt this year. I hope to make it to watch next year. I decided to not build the car into LSR race car. I thought I would get more enjoyment out of it if it was a street car and also save me a significant amount of money on the build. Please stop through Cheyoming on your way through.

@V4F It seems the Clutch Disc is the Hardest part of the T-5 conversion. I had a machinist friend help me build an adapter so I can run a stock clutch disc. I will see how well it works here in a few months when I get the car all together. Here is some pictures of what I had made. I feel there is a market for a good T-5 conversion for a stock A bell housing. There are open drive line conversions available but a conversion from the motor to the trans are not. I am not sure if there is a adapter for a 4WD trans to torque tube available any more either. I was lucky enough to get one of those from Crazydaddyo.

 

R/ Roger
I believe mine is the .072 . there id #s that tell you the ratio . there is a chart online that gives you all the info .
strong enuff . a lot depends on your motor & your right foot , standing starts at power will let you know ! . I don't race mine (but I do power up) so I'm not a good source for this .

 

Check with reds-headers they have Winfield heads - 2 compression ratios

 

Hey John,

I got here late; but are those Alimites any connection to the 'Snipes" of which I used to try to get my girl friend d'jour to go hunting for at night.

 

Sounds like you are running out of fuel at the top end, Just looking at the pictures I can see the glass fuel bowl on the firewall is only half full. Gravity should fill that bowl without a problem unless the tap on the tank is partially blocked ( there is a filter in the tank above that. I presume the Malpassi unit is somewhere along the chassis rail near the front of the motor? I think you have too many filters and fittings , which slows flow ( flow and pressure are two different issues).... If it were me I would remove that whole stock water trap/sediment filter and the filter you have beside it. Either put the small inline filter and the pump inside the firewall feeding directly from the tank and put the Malpassi reg/filter on the firewall where the stock one is now, or else run the fuel line directly from the firewall fitting to the inline filter and then the pump, hide the pump etc down in the cavity beneath the toeboard and the cowl side...then run the FilterKing where you have it now. Just get rid of as many right angle fittings and restrictions as you can.Put the in line filter in a straight line with NO right angle fittings attached if possible.
Also if the main circuit is spitting fuel at idle the float level is probably a bit high ...be careful in lowering it too far though as this can also cause the running out of fuel issue after a "spirited acceleration".
The carb should run on the idle circuits when the throttle plates are closed (at idle), and the transfer (intermediate ) and mains should have little to do with fuel supply until the throttle is cracked. Another reason for the mains to be spitting some fuel through at idle is if the power valve is open..either damaged or leaking . It should only be opened at (near) full throttle by the pump plunger depressed to full stroke.
http://www.flatheadv8.org/stromberg.htm
http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/Flathead_trouble-carbs_34-38strom.htm
http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/stuff/Stromberg97/stbrg97_1.jpg

 

It's been a fun time working all this out between ignition and fuel delivery problems. So after the carb and fuel pump/filter rebuild I dove into ignition. Blew up a Pertronix due to not checking previous owner's wonky wiring. Got a replacement and attempted a test drive after a pretty easy start-up. Car dies 300 yards from home. Killed battery trying to restart, and put it on charge/boost start. Apparently that was too much voltage for the replacement module (a little above 16 volts OUCH). SO I went back to the points for now with a new condenser from a 65 Mustang. Still no start... Hmm... Check fuel again. What's this, nothing coming out of the lines. I start working backward and find the bulkhead fitting for the sediment bowl housing completely plugged! So cleaned that out, along with the under dash hard line, and what do you know... It now runs again and is drive-able. I still need to work on the advance timing though as it is weak in 3rd and on hills. Long term the sediment bowl will be gone when I move the tank to the trunk. Just trying to make it work as good as I can for now. On the note of float level I'll tweak that a little too, although it is only spitting fuel under throttle. With the dual carbs on this thing should I have the accelerator pump rod in Summer or Winter position? Or is that a tuning to suit the car thing?

 

Sorry...All this new format has me "Scewed Up"

 

If the under dash line was clogged i would take the tank tap out and check that out and at the same time make sure there is a filter in the tap...it is about 3" long so even if there is sediment in the tank and it blocks the bottom of the tank near the tap , fuel can still get to the tap...they are only about $5.00 new from Brattons or Snyders etc. https://www.brattons.com/fuel-tank-filter-screen.html

 

@V4F It seems the Clutch Disc is the Hardest part of the T-5 conversion. I had a machinist friend help me build an adapter so I can run a stock clutch disc. I will see how well it works here in a few months when I get the car all together. Here is some pictures of what I had made. I feel there is a market for a good T-5 conversion for a stock A bell housing. There are open drive line conversions available but a conversion from the motor to the trans are not. I am not sure if there is a adapter for a 4WD trans to torque tube available any more either. I was lucky enough to get one of those from Crazydaddyo.

View attachment 3193754 View attachment 3193755 [/QUOTE]

Now that is very cool!
What are the details?
Mated up, welded and turned down?
Seems cutting external and broaching internal splines would skyrocket costs. Very nice, regardless!

 

Now that is very cool!
What are the details?
Mated up, welded and turned down?
Seems cutting external and broaching internal splines would skyrocket costs. Very nice, regardless![/QUOTE]


I used a center section out of a new Speedway T-5 disc that was turned down and sacrificed an input shaft from a stock transmission. They were mated up welded and turned down. My only hope is that it is strong enough. I don't have the car together yet to try it out. hoping by July

 

Thanks V4F. I'm going to go look at it one evening after work this week and see what all is there.

 

Is anyone using a Winfield grind 1A cam on the street. I would imagine a rough idle but any other draw backs?

 

I got called recently to remove a bunch of old ford parts from a property and in the pile was a police head!! Gonna run it on my truck. Pretty pumped!

Sent from my SM-G900T using H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I have one in my winfield equipped engine.. But haven't run it yet. I need to figure out its issue.

Sent from my SM-G900T using H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I have a buddy that is running one on a B engine with a Lion III head. He complains that it doesn't give him lower RPM torque which we need running around in the hills we live in at 6K to 7K' elevation.
Larry

 

I used a center section out of a new Speedway T-5 disc that was turned down and sacrificed an input shaft from a stock transmission. They were mated up welded and turned down. My only hope is that it is strong enough. I don't have the car together yet to try it out. hoping by July[/QUOTE]

OR you could just but a Macsspeed bellhousing ( Graeme McNeill) . The bellhousing has the wishbone mount cast into the bottom just like original, and it has the pedal mount for original pedals. It is also delivered with a new clutch release shaft and fork which works for both left and right hand drive ( shaft comes undrilled so you can drill and pin it to suit your own setup.
He makes two different T5 to Model A bellhousings , for Ford or GM gearboxes with a 6.5" input shaft.
The T5 trans bolts on directly with no adapter plate, no machining and can use the original Ford pressure plate or a T5 one Graeme sells a T5 original clutch disc with modifications on the flywheel side which clears the flywheel bolts . The pilot bearing is replaced with a sintered bronze bush (GM part) but the bellhousing places the input shaft in the correct place for the 6.5 " input shaft so no special extended shaft/clutch disc is needed the longer input shafts can have a short piece sliced off the front . The original Model A release bearing carrier is bored and bushed to fit the T5 bearing carrier used with the Ford pressure plate or if you want to use a diaphragm clutch Graeme also has a newly cast bearing carrier which mates the round face bearing to the Ford release fork and fits directly to the T5.
http://www.macsspeed.com/index.php/.../model-a-b-ford-adaptor-lh-or-rh-drive-detail
http://www.macsspeed.com/index.php/...um-castings/model-a-b-gearbox-adapters-detail
OK they are made in New Zealand, but the exchange rate means the price is right, even with freight to the US they are less than the NZ $ price.

 

doesn't give him lower RPM torque .............. not to doubt him but mine pulls pretty good . what carb is he running ? my weber works good for me .............

 

Ihad the same problem of running out of fuel in 2nd gear or hi speed, would idle great. found the problem was that when i put on the new fuel line w/barell seal, i pushed the line in too far and it blocked off the fuel, enough to idle and slo speed but not hi speed....

 

Does anyone currently make a good '4000 rpm tach for our cars, and a low scale oil pressure gauge of something from 0 to 20 lbs that doesn't look like the ones offered by the parts houses? Starting to set up my dash for gauges and was curious as to what you have been using?

 

Denis4x4 just posted a picture of his 4000 RPM tach on Saturday. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...d-by-substitutes.1014321/page-4#post-11483854

 

@97, those Macsspeed bell housings look great! I wish I knew about them when I started my project almost 8 years ago. They have lots of nice looking things on their website.

 

Score!!! I have one I have yet to run.

 

This followed me home tonight!!

 

Oil Film ..... no pun intended