Technical Anyone have a few tips on fixing a sprung door?

Well it finally happened to me. I was in a rush to get the Chrysler in the shop, left it running as I cleard a little space, she slipped into neutral (a linkage issue I've been meaning to address) and rolled backwards in a smooth sweeping arc flinging the drivers door open and catching itself on the drivers side fender of my 64 C10. Thankfully nobody was in the path and the only thing hurt is my ego. Not a mark on the truck fender but the front edge of the drivers door on the chrysler hyperextended and kissed the fender. The molding took most of it with a small crease where the door pressure was. Leading edge of the door folded over which I was able to hammer and dolly out fairly well with no paint damage. I warmed the door with a heat gun in the hopes of keeping the paint soft-ish. So the door will close if I really slam it but clearly I bent something in there. I'm guessing the mounting area in the body as the mounting points on the door look OK, as do the hinges.


Before





After a little work









Could have been much worse. Any tips on how to fix the hinges will be much appreciated.

NAES

Sent from my SM-N910V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

If it's the door post I would remove the door and a trick I use is a 4 ft heavy straight edge for drywall and I put a piece of tape on the fender and one on the quarter approximately even with upper and lower door hinge areas, lay the straight edge across fender and quarter and measure from door post to straight edge. Then using a good hard wood 2x4 and hammer smack the hinge area. If you have plenty of adjustment out I'd go in 1/4" and try it.

I've done so many door posts that I have an eye for it but basically look across the front door pillar and see how "straight" the hinge areas look with each other and how straight they look with the pillar itself. Good luck !

 

One thing I noticed by looking at your pics is the top and bottom of the door looks pretty good, it's the middle that's fat. So it could be do it skin or a little fender too.

If that's what it is I have another trick for that.

I have a piece of 1 3/4" wide by 12" long taper piece of spring leaf and I wrap the end with a thin layer of masking tape. Open the door and stick about 1/2" to 1" of the tappered end into the door gap at the fender, hold the spring flat against the door and gently close the door, work up and down the door with it. This gently moves the fender out and the door in at the same time. A little practice and you can end up with perfectly fitting edges.

 

If something is sprung in the hinge or where the hinge mounts, I've had luck jamming something like a hammer handle in the hinge so the door won't close and applying pressure to the door to bend whatever is sprung, back in place. The same weak area that bent should bend back.

 

Yup, "block" the jamb/hinge area gently close it to bend things back. "Reverse the film" in a manner of speaking.

 

I've worked areas like that with a hammer and spoon before but you might have better luck taking the door off and supporting the edge from the back. Maybe the real bodymen will show up and give some pointers.

 

Great advice guys! Thank you!

I like the idea of blocking the jamb first since the door will stay put. If I have to go further then so be it.

I'll report back with my excellent results!

Sent from my SM-N910V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

It may be that the fender flattened , check the profile before any thing.